When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's been a couple months since I installed a Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can on my Dry sump LS3 Grand Sport. I checked it after the first month & poured about 3 oz. of oil out of it. I checked it again this evening at the end of the second month & another few oz. of oil. This oil WOULD have gone back into the air intake if the Catch Can were not installed. There is no doubt in my mind that this modification does what it's designed to do.
Last edited by dmoneychris; 01-30-2015 at 11:40 PM.
I couldn't find a vendor on CF...I think it's because they 'may be' a foreign Company...? (http://www.mishimoto.com/about-us.html) I want to be clear, that point does not in any way diminish the quality of their product.
Last edited by dmoneychris; 01-31-2015 at 11:53 AM.
Any more pix on the "tank" end of the install? Thanks.
From my understanding (Correct me if I'm wrong) the PCV gases from the engine gather in the top section of the Dry Sump tank. Where they flow back into the intake via. the closest hose to the Catch can (the hose that the Catch can is tying into) The can is just intercepting those PCV gases & separating them w/out really stopping the cycle.
add a fuel filter into the dry side lines to see how much oil you are getting through it as well.
Hence at WOT, the vacuum on the dirty side is lost through the catch can to vent that way back into the intake, and the engine is now vapor venting from vacuum through the clean side instead.
add a fuel filter into the dry side lines to see how much oil you are getting through it as well.
Hence at WOT, the vacuum on the dirty side is lost through the catch can to vent that way back into the intake, and the engine is now vapor venting from vacuum through the clean side instead.
So it's 'not' working correctly? Will you please explain to me how I should do that? ...(I am tracking like a torpedo)...Which 'dry side lines' do you mean? I will do some research on 'vapor venting' & figure out how that works...I can't have 'vapor venting'...it must be bad right? lol...'Modifier's' beware, if you modifiy 1 thing, there is probably a companion mod to go w/it...
Two vapor passages into the intake to vent motor oil vapor into the intake, from two vent line out of the motor.
In the photo, you have the silver pipe out of the block cover dead center of photo, and that gets piped into the black port on the manifold right above it. This is the dirty side, where a catch can get mounted between and since the manifold is under vacuum most of the time, where the intake is sucking vapors out of the block and into the intake manifold.
Now during WOT, the vacuum in the intake drops down to zero, and so the intake is still sucking vapors out of the block, the intake port is changed to in-front of the TB instead to get a vacuum from there (this is called the clean side).
So in the above photo, look left of the blue oil filler cap for the port/fitting tube out of the motor/valve cover, then to the TB on the top of it with the pipe angle to the left and downward (this is the clean side loop where where these two pipe together.
Note, if you have a 2005, then the intake track connection for the clean side out of the valve cover is on the flex hose in front of the TB instead on the TB itself.
So to check if the clean side is staying clean, or just shoving oil into the manifold during WOT instead, a clean fuel filter is installed in this line to see how clean the "clean line" is staying (read install the fuel filter closer to the valve covers port).
If come oil change, the fuel filter is drenched with standing oil, then time to install a catch can on the clean side as well.
Note, why someone does not just make a dual chamber catch can to catch both the dirty side, and clean side, it beyond me. So instead, you end up having to buy two catch cans to catch oil from both the clean side and the dirty side as well.
Two vapor passages into the intake to vent motor oil vapor into the intake, from two vent line out of the motor.
In the photo, you have the silver pipe out of the block cover dead center of photo, and that gets piped into the black port on the manifold right above it. This is the dirty side, where a catch can get mounted between and since the manifold is under vacuum most of the time, where the intake is sucking vapors out of the block and into the intake manifold.
Now during WOT, the vacuum in the intake drops down to zero, and so the intake is still sucking vapors out of the block, the intake port is changed to in-front of the TB instead to get a vacuum from there (this is called the clean side).
So in the above photo, look left of the blue oil filler cap for the port/fitting tube out of the motor/valve cover, then to the TB on the top of it with the pipe angle to the left and downward (this is the clean side loop where where these two pipe together.
Note, if you have a 2005, then the intake track connection for the clean side out of the valve cover is on the flex hose in front of the TB instead on the TB itself.
So to check if the clean side is staying clean, or just shoving oil into the manifold during WOT instead, a clean fuel filter is installed in this line to see how clean the "clean line" is staying (read install the fuel filter closer to the valve covers port).
If come oil change, the fuel filter is drenched with standing oil, then time to install a catch can on the clean side as well.
Note, why someone does not just make a dual chamber catch can to catch both the dirty side, and clean side, it beyond me. So instead, you end up having to buy two catch cans to catch oil from both the clean side and the dirty side as well.
So...W/the factory's dry sump line set-up, where would/should I tie in the filter?...
Thanks for the great pictures! Hope it continues to work well for you; I am thinking of doing this too.
You're welcome for the pictures. I hope to be posting some more modification pictures this spring. I think there will be Longtube headers at some point in this car's future...
W/the pictures from post #10; I am wondering about the comment that was talking about "vapor venting"...The second line from the dry sump tank that goes back into the Head in front of the coil pack...It seems like any excess oil that goes back in there is just lubricating the valve train & getting burned off in the combustion cycle...? I don't really know...(On a side note, I Sea Foamed my car a few months ago also & there was NO SMOKE at all that came out of the tail pipes)...Does anyone know if the second hose leading out of the dry sump tank should be ran through a filter or separate catch can?
Last edited by dmoneychris; 02-01-2015 at 03:29 PM.
On the Dry sump, vent pipes out of the valve cover, threw the oil tank, then to the intake port.
So if you want to check to make sure that no oil is being shoved into the TB with the gas filter, gas filter mounted in line near the TP line would be best.
If you are getting oil into the TB (fuel filter is drenched with standing oil), then here is your solution.
Hence cap gets changed out, the port out of the tank to the TB is capped, and the tube from the TB gets connected to the new air/ oil separator cap.
Note, cap is doing the same as the catch can, and allows the collected oil in the cap system to just drain back down into the tank.
Or, if you want to add another catch can to keep the puck oil (same as what is being caught in the dirty side catch can) from dropping back into the tank, then clean side vent line gets intercepted from the tank vent line out to the TB/intake port with the catch can.
On the Dry sump, vent pipes out of the valve cover, threw the oil tank, then to the intake port.
So if you want to check to make sure that no oil is being shoved into the TB with the gas filter, gas filter mounted in line near the TP line would be best.
If you are getting oil into the TB (fuel filter is drenched with standing oil), then here is your solution.
Hence cap gets changed out, the port out of the tank to the TB is capped, and the tube from the TB gets connected to the new air/ oil separator cap.
Note, cap is doing the same as the catch can, and allows the collected oil in the cap system to just drain back down into the tank.
Or, if you want to add another catch can to keep the puck oil (same as what is being caught in the dirty side catch can) from dropping back into the tank, then clean side vent line gets intercepted from the tank vent line out to the TB/intake port with the catch can.
Thank you for explaining that to me. I'm wondering, would it be harmful to just 'Cap' the second hose that's coming out of the dry sump tank or is that a necessary hose? If there is that much oil going into the catch can, it seems reasonable to assume that there's that much going back into the head, right? Is that 'okay'?...What's ideal here, a second catch can? lol
Man, taking about have a brain fart on my part.
You are catching the clean side off the oil tank, and the dirty side is not being caught at all.
If you are pushing that much oil through the clean side into the catch can, I can just image the amount of oil that you are shoving through the manifold on the dirty side line.
You posted this, and did not catch that the OEM factory dirty line side hose is still in place.
Look left and bottom of the TB (just left of the TB pink/purple connector) to see the oem factory dirty line hose still connector between the block plate outlet and the intake port inlet (short hose connects back into the intake manifold port back towards center of the motor straight in from the Blue GM sticker.
This should cover you on the dirty side connection points that you need to add another catch can, or move the catch can you have to the dirty side (why it came with such long hoses to reach the dirty side ports) , and go with the tank oil/air cap separator back at the tank.
Man, taking about have a brain fart on my part.
You are catching the clean side off the oil tank, and the dirty side is not being caught at all.
If you are pushing that much oil through the clean side into the catch can, I can just image the amount of oil that you are shoving through the manifold on the dirty side line.
You posted this, and did not catch that the OEM factory dirty line side hose is still in place.
Look left and bottom of the TB (just left of the TB pink/purple connector) to see the oem factory dirty line hose still connector between the block plate outlet and the intake port inlet (short hose connects back into the intake manifold port back towards center of the motor straight in from the Blue GM sticker.
This should cover you on the dirty side connection points that you need to add another catch can, or move the catch can you have to the dirty side (why it came with such long hoses to reach the dirty side ports) , and go with the tank oil/air cap separator back at the tank.
You are catching the clean side of the oil tank, and the dirty side is not being caught at all. If you are pushing that much oil through the clean side into the catch can, I can just image the amount of oil that you are shoving through the manifold on the dirty side line.
Can I cap off the hose on the side farther away from the Catch Can that's coming off the Dry Sump tank? Or switch the connections and then cap off the near side hose off the Dry Sump tank? It seems like both sides are dirty...what's my next step?
Bad idea here on anything less than a race motor that you will changing the oil frequently/end of the race secession, and will just end up with the oil getting dirty quickly on street car (no vacuum to pull the vapors out of the motor to keep the oil cleaner longer).
If you take a good look at the photo, both the dirty vacuum port at the intake manifold, and the clean vacuum port in front of the TB are capped (vapor is not longer being vacuum draw out of the motor), so what this diagram is doing is routing the the valve covers exhaust ports, with/through the oil tank ports, then throwing breather on the end of the line so the vapor can be pushed out when the block pressurize/ oil can be puked into the catch can just before the breather.
Lets start this again from the top and keep in mind that you want the vapors in the motor oil to sucked out via the intake vacuum constantly to keep the oil clean. Without the constant vacuum, the motor vapors just sit in the motor until they are pressure pushed out, which cause the oil to get dirtier faster.
Your motor has a dirty side vapor exhaust port out of the engine valley cover just below the intake manifold. It the silver port in the center of the photo*. Just above that silver valley cover port, is a black port into the intake manifold**. So to catch the oil from the dirty side, the catch can gets piped in between these two ports since the intake port will have a vacuum most of the time (short of when you are WOT).
** yellow cap on the dirty side intake vacuum port in this photo.
Now on the clean side where a vacuum is created at WOT since dirty port loosed vacuum at WOT, there are exhaust ports out of the valve covers . The vent ports from the valve covers is piped to the oil tank (Y together before the tank), then out of the oil tank and into the connector line just in front of the TB on your air intake reducer coupler to get the needed vacuum for the dry side (created vacuum at WOT)
So to catch the oil on the clean side,
You can use the set up you now have with the catch can piped as is, and add another can can to the dirty side,
Or pipe the catch can you have now to the dirty side ports instead, and use the replacement type cap air/oil separator instead for the clean side instead.
As for combining a single catch can to both dirty and dry sides, gets real tricky since you do not want to allow an air flow between the vacuum port behind and in front of the TB vane (back check valves would work), but if the catch can get full, then you will dumping a great deal of oil into the vacuum port in front of the TB vane (why the clean side is the clean side to begin with).
So pick your poison, but you either need another catch can, or pick up the elite air/oil separator cap system so you are catching oil from both the dirty side, and the clean side lines.
P.S, Forget about the fuel filter, since you already know the amount of oil that is making it way through the clean side, since that is the oil that is in the catch can when you checked it.
01-30-2015, 11:30 PM
LS engines 'need' a Catch Can (pic)
.jpg)
Am I getting mixed messages here? I tied into the closest line on the dry sump tank because of this picture.
