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One just inside the end piece that connects to the master cylinder, the second one at the mid coupling on the master cylinder side, then the third at the end piece that fits to the slave cylinder.
As for the OEM clutch, you get the motor rev'g too high, even with clean fluid, start to slip the clutch too much with the revs too high, and the clutch will continue to spin and burn up, even with your foot of the pedal.
GM designed this in the clutch (the part that they don't warranty) to save the drive line instead (the part they do warranty).
So to launch the car correctly, you need to get it rolling and the OEM clutch fully hooked up/fully engaged before you start stomping on the gas pedal.
I have to laugh every time I see that video..
I'll take a look at those points. I'm not exactly running a stock clutch so it's probably fine to leave them in. The clutch that is going in on mine will probably destroy the '05 rear end in short order if it grips 100% at once
I'll take a look at those points. I'm not exactly running a stock clutch so it's probably fine to leave them in. The clutch that is going in on mine will probably destroy the '05 rear end in short order if it grips 100% at once
My 05 rear broke on my 301st pass, the all break the same, the case cracks in half and it bends the transmission mainshaft. Wheel hop will kill them sooner, but eventually, with a lot of drag strip use, expect it to break.
You can replace the rear with an 06+ by buying a transmission tail housing or you can use a c5 rear if you buy a bracket from stanger383.
If you drag race a lot it's wise to replace before you break as the transmission rebuild can run $2k or more.
My 05 rear broke on my 301st pass, the all break the same, the case cracks in half and it bends the transmission mainshaft. Wheel hop will kill them sooner, but eventually, with a lot of drag strip use, expect it to break.
You can replace the rear with an 06+ by buying a transmission tail housing or you can use a c5 rear if you buy a bracket from stanger383.
If you drag race a lot it's wise to replace before you break as the transmission rebuild can run $2k or more.
I'm not a big drag racer.. but do have a supercharger + meth, so I'm expecting a decent amount of power. With a new clutch, I am not really expecting it to slip anymore.. so that leaves the tires and/or rear end as the weak links.
I found the part number for the tail housing finally.. and found one in stock for < $150
The problem is I'm not sure about the rear.. Can I buy a newer case and have someone swap the internals from mine over to the new case? I've been keeping an eye out for a used unit to pop up on eBay, but it seems they are all either auto units, the wrong ratio, or horribly expensive.
I'd prefer to swap things over prior to breaking anything if the costs aren't ridiculous. The only other option I've found is from RPM and includes their stage 1 rebuild + the new case + the tail housing and yeah.. that wasn't cheap.
I'm not a big drag racer.. but do have a supercharger + meth, so I'm expecting a decent amount of power. With a new clutch, I am not really expecting it to slip anymore.. so that leaves the tires and/or rear end as the weak links.
I found the part number for the tail housing finally.. and found one in stock for < $150
The problem is I'm not sure about the rear.. Can I buy a newer case and have someone swap the internals from mine over to the new case? I've been keeping an eye out for a used unit to pop up on eBay, but it seems they are all either auto units, the wrong ratio, or horribly expensive.
I'd prefer to swap things over prior to breaking anything if the costs aren't ridiculous. The only other option I've found is from RPM and includes their stage 1 rebuild + the new case + the tail housing and yeah.. that wasn't cheap.
If you'e not drag racing, you might be ok for a good while, so long as you abort any wheel hop immediately. 5litereater has I think 1000+ twin turbo HP running through his 05 rear and he even took it to the drag strip a few times..and I believe he goes to Mexico as well.
A c5 swap is the cheapest way to go. You can buy a rear from ebay and swap it right in with the mount from stanger383 but you'd be wise to have it rebuilt first. That's still going to be the cheap way to go I think.
If you'e not drag racing, you might be ok for a good while, so long as you abort any wheel hop immediately. 5litereater has I think 1000+ twin turbo HP running through his 05 rear and he even took it to the drag strip a few times..and I believe he goes to Mexico as well.
A c5 swap is the cheapest way to go. You can buy a rear from ebay and swap it right in with the mount from stanger383 but you'd be wise to have it rebuilt first. That's still going to be the cheap way to go I think.
What's the advantage of a C5 rear over the '05? I've read a few things saying that you can use them with that mount like you mentioned, but never quite understood the advantage. For some reason I assumed they were about the same strength as the '05 ones unless you had them upgraded. Maybe I assumed wrong on that one.. they are def a lot cheaper!
Are they stronger than the 05's?
Yeah wheel hop is the killer for sure. I've never even been to a drag strip so I don't care much for those.. I will have to be careful with wheel hop. Do the transmission braces help at all or just a waste of money?
What's the advantage of a C5 rear over the '05? I've read a few things saying that you can use them with that mount like you mentioned, but never quite understood the advantage. For some reason I assumed they were about the same strength as the '05 ones unless you had them upgraded. Maybe I assumed wrong on that one.. they are def a lot cheaper!
Are they stronger than the 05's?
Yeah wheel hop is the killer for sure. I've never even been to a drag strip so I don't care much for those.. I will have to be careful with wheel hop. Do the transmission braces help at all or just a waste of money?
C5's mount at the rear makes them stronger. In 05+ they mount from the side plates as you know. C5's are plenty strong, 06+ is good, Z06 is better and Zr1 is the best. In 06 chevy build up the top of the diff with more bracing to keep them together as the front ear mounts caused the weaker 05 cases to crack and the pinion breaks out and bends the mainshaft on the way.
I had a brace when my rear broke and it still bent the transmission shaft.
C5's mount at the rear makes them stronger. In 05+ they mount from the side plates as you know. C5's are plenty strong, 06+ is good, Z06 is better and Zr1 is the best. In 06 chevy build up the top of the diff with more bracing to keep them together as the front ear mounts caused the weaker 05 cases to crack and the pinion breaks out and bends the mainshaft on the way.
I had a brace when my rear broke and it still bent the transmission shaft.
Ah I see now. Thanks for the explanation.
I saw an '06 3.42 M6 one pop up on eBay the other week for $600 shipped and I didn't buy it for some stupid reason. I had just started looking around and figured if I found one that quick then there's probably better deals out there. Ah well, live and learn I guess. I should have bought that one for sure.
I'm going to keep an eye out for a used '06 unit.. I usually setup searches on eBay so it sends me any new listings every day for certain things, so I'll set one up for this and maybe look around for a C5 one also. I'd rather get an '06+ one but also don't want to spend thousands
That's a good price shipped. Don't see many lower than that that are functional.
But don't be afraid to drive your car. It's not made of glass. I stopped shifting so fast after I broke two third gear blocker rings. Those are more fragile than the rear IMHO. Shift a little slow and avoid wheelhop and enjoy your car.
That's a good price shipped. Don't see many lower than that that are functional.
But don't be afraid to drive your car. It's not made of glass. I stopped shifting so fast after I broke two third gear blocker rings. Those are more fragile than the rear IMHO. Shift a little slow and avoid wheelhop and enjoy your car.
You test a clutch for slipping in 4th gear at 3-4k mat it and see if the Rpms go up faster than the speed. I have smoked my clutch trying to do a second gear burnout and the wheels didn't spin, in my old vette, but the clutch recovered fine that next pass and I raced on it for a long time afterward. They are a lot tougher than you think. I now do only first gear burnouts and have done a lot of them, I have 497 passes on my OE clutch and I get 1.4's at will.