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Seized bleeder valve

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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 11:37 PM
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Default Seized bleeder valve

Upgraded pads and rotors on 2010 GS M6 and found the RR inside bleeder was seized. 10mm line wrench just rounded the corners off the hex.

After consulting the forum decided to use vise grips. The first 2 attempts were not successful so decided to apply heat. Used a propane torch to gently heat the caliper about 10mm below the bleeder on the side and back of caliper. After a minute or so some brake fluid started to weep out - this indicated the caliper female thread was expanding away from the SS bleeder. I then let it cool for 30 mins and repeated the heat and cooling. I wanted the bleeder to be cool before trying the vise grips again. This time I adjusted the vise grips as tight as I could squeeze and then applied steady pressure to the vise grips to break it loose. After a couple of seconds it did.

Here is what it looks like after getting it out.

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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 02:58 AM
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The way I read this, the brake fluid has not been changed in 6 years (since the car was new), and time to power bleed the system now.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
The way I read this, the brake fluid has not been changed in 6 years (since the car was new), and time to power bleed the system now.
I dont know about the first owner but suspect you are correct.

I flushed the system with 2 litres of DOT4. It was amazing how much crud came out. The old fluid was almost the color of weak coffee. Used Motive Power Bleeder to pressurize the system (did not put fluid in the power bleeder, just the reservoir). This might be a little slower than using the power bleeder to hold fluid but no cleanup required.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBMARZ
I dont know about the first owner but suspect you are correct.

I flushed the system with 2 litres of DOT4. It was amazing how much crud came out. The old fluid was almost the color of weak coffee. Used Motive Power Bleeder to pressurize the system (did not put fluid in the power bleeder, just the reservoir). This might be a little slower than using the power bleeder to hold fluid but no cleanup required.
If you did not cycle the ABS unit with a tech II (including it's pump), then go find a gravel road, and do a few power stops to kick the ABS pump into action; so is cycles out all the old pine tar fluid with fresh fluid in the pump.

Now power bleed the system again.



And I just use an airbush compressor with a tank cap for the needed pressure to power bleed, and keep the fluid in the tank topped off between caliper flushes.
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