Solid Roller C6 Z06...need some advice
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Ft Walton Beach FL
Solid Roller C6 Z06...need some advice
Bought a modded Z here on the forum. List of mods is extensive, including a RHS block with a sloid roller setup making 640 rwhp. Car was built by Cartek and is a beast. However, I'm looking to swap over to a more street friendly setup with a hydraulic roller valvetrain. I'm deployed currently and the car is at my Dad's place in north GA. What am I looking at cost wise for a heads/cam swap? Have received a couple quotes so far and the labor rates are a LOT higher than what I was prepared for. The plan is to eventually go forced induction, but for now just want a car I can daily drive in Florida. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Looking into MTI racing and Vengeance Racing in Atlanta area. Not sure of any other shops in the north GA or Chattanooga TN areas.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Sounds like you bought the wrong car! Buy a crate Dry sump LS3 and sell your engine.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...FcGLaQods2YADw
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...FcGLaQods2YADw
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 25
From: Jasper GA
Strong recommendation for Lamar Walden Automotive in Doraville (Atlanta area): http://lwaengines.com/ They have more Chevrolet performance experience than Vengeance and MTI combined, and price their work fairly.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 493
Likes: 24
From: Peoria IL
not sure I agree with the above advice about buying the wrong car...
Your parts are likely sellable especially if you want to swap the heads out completely.
Heads can range from 2500 to 4k+
gaskets, cam, and fluids are probably another 650, and with fairly basic tools and a torque wrench it can be done in a day or two
Your parts are likely sellable especially if you want to swap the heads out completely.
Heads can range from 2500 to 4k+
gaskets, cam, and fluids are probably another 650, and with fairly basic tools and a torque wrench it can be done in a day or two
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Ft Walton Beach FL
No expense was spared on this car by the previous owner, RPM rear end with DSS 1000hp axles, 360 Forged wheels, Carravaggio seats, McLeod twin disc clutch and at least 18 grand spent JUST on the motor are just a few of the highlights, for what I paid for it, I got a hell of deal....just don't want to deal with the maintenance a solid roller set up requires. The quotes I'm seeing so far vary but prices for a cam package are between 1300 and 1700 dollars and the labor to swap heads and cam is pretty high as well, so I'm just wondering what is "normal" for the LS7....
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
I would suggest that if you got the specs of the whole engine combo, to talk to Kip at cam motion, Pat G or Martin @ Tick Performance. I dont see a need to change your whole valvetrain, heads, etc. tell them how you want your engine to behave and what's your final goal. I'm thinking lifters(only if the cam is a full solid set up), cam, maybe springs, and a retune are the only changes needed. If you have a lot of compression, the right cam will help to bleed that off if you want to go forced induction.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 130
Likes: 4
From: Baton Rouge Louisiana
Bought a modded Z here on the forum. List of mods is extensive, including a RHS block with a sloid roller setup making 640 rwhp. Car was built by Cartek and is a beast. However, I'm looking to swap over to a more street friendly setup with a hydraulic roller valvetrain. I'm deployed currently and the car is at my Dad's place in north GA. What am I looking at cost wise for a heads/cam swap? Have received a couple quotes so far and the labor rates are a LOT higher than what I was prepared for. The plan is to eventually go forced induction, but for now just want a car I can daily drive in Florida. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Looking into MTI racing and Vengeance Racing in Atlanta area. Not sure of any other shops in the north GA or Chattanooga TN areas.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Ft Walton Beach FL
Thanks Kip! Here is all the info I have from the prevoius owner on what went into this build...
Forged 427 Cartek Built Motor (640 RWHP - {750BHP Calculated}) - Less than
1500 miles on new motor
+ RHS Block, standard deck height (CNC Honed block 4.130" bore honed
+ with
torque plates)
+ Callies Crank Shaft (4.000" stroke, balanced) Manley 4340 Rods (6.125"
+ H beam with ARP rod bolts) Wiseco Custom Pistons Katech LS9 oil pump
+ upgrade (Red pump so larger scavenge and pump also) WC/IRL Timing
+ chain (2 extra links for RHS block) Custom Ground Camshaft, Solid Roller (Cartek Specs) Solid roller lifters (Lunati) Custom Pushrods
+ (Manley 3/8") T&D Shaft Mounted Rockers with necessary machining to
+ heads Hand Ported GM LS7 Castings, Serdi Radius Cut Valve job, Milled.
+ (With
PSI valve springs)
+ FAST (102) Intake with port matching
+ Nick Williams 102 Throttle Body
+ Custom Tall Billet Cartek Valve Covers with billet coil relocation kit
+ Custom spark plug wires (Katech/MSD) Lingenfelter modified dry sump
accumulator reservoir/tank for oil (+2~3
quarts)
+ Halltech MF107R Cold air intake system Ron Davis After Market Radiator
Forged 427 Cartek Built Motor (640 RWHP - {750BHP Calculated}) - Less than
1500 miles on new motor
+ RHS Block, standard deck height (CNC Honed block 4.130" bore honed
+ with
torque plates)
+ Callies Crank Shaft (4.000" stroke, balanced) Manley 4340 Rods (6.125"
+ H beam with ARP rod bolts) Wiseco Custom Pistons Katech LS9 oil pump
+ upgrade (Red pump so larger scavenge and pump also) WC/IRL Timing
+ chain (2 extra links for RHS block) Custom Ground Camshaft, Solid Roller (Cartek Specs) Solid roller lifters (Lunati) Custom Pushrods
+ (Manley 3/8") T&D Shaft Mounted Rockers with necessary machining to
+ heads Hand Ported GM LS7 Castings, Serdi Radius Cut Valve job, Milled.
+ (With
PSI valve springs)
+ FAST (102) Intake with port matching
+ Nick Williams 102 Throttle Body
+ Custom Tall Billet Cartek Valve Covers with billet coil relocation kit
+ Custom spark plug wires (Katech/MSD) Lingenfelter modified dry sump
accumulator reservoir/tank for oil (+2~3
quarts)
+ Halltech MF107R Cold air intake system Ron Davis After Market Radiator
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 261
From: Miami Florida
You are must likely in position of a true jewel with all the rite parts in it and bend on doing all the wrong moves just because you don't know how to adjust valve lash and like must people, think you need to be adjusting valve lash and changing parts all the time just because is a solid roller set up.
But this is really not so at all specially build by a reputable shop as the one you mention.
Solid roller lifters used now a days are of great quality and are very durable and you have nothing to fear, (specially knowing the previous owner spare no spence) just drive it and enjoy it for a while and you likely using a similar set up in your next car.
In fact you can go thousands of miles without having to even adjust the valve lash.
When you learn how to adjust your own valve lash you will not want to have it any other way.
Your fears are unfounded, all the great Japanese engine we learn to thrust none of them have hydraulic cams.
But this is really not so at all specially build by a reputable shop as the one you mention.
Solid roller lifters used now a days are of great quality and are very durable and you have nothing to fear, (specially knowing the previous owner spare no spence) just drive it and enjoy it for a while and you likely using a similar set up in your next car.
In fact you can go thousands of miles without having to even adjust the valve lash.
When you learn how to adjust your own valve lash you will not want to have it any other way.
Your fears are unfounded, all the great Japanese engine we learn to thrust none of them have hydraulic cams.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Ft Walton Beach FL
As stated above, eventually, I plan to go forced induction. And I want to be able to daily drive the car in the summer time, in Florida. As it is now, it won't idle all the time with the A/C on, the cam is a little too radical for everyday street use. I get what you're saying xBoostx, but you are right in that I don't trust myself to be adjusting valve lash and there are exactly ZERO speed shops in my area that I trust at all. That's mainly why I'm looking into shops that are local to where the car is now. It's not just "fear", there are a lot of reasons for wanting to cahnge the current setup. If it's not cost effective to make the changes, I'll sell the car and start with another project....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,307
Likes: 110
From: Tucson AZ
Start by changing the cam and lifters. Take a look at the Katech Torquer 116 and a set of OEM LS7 lifters with matching PSI beehive springs. With a proper tune adjustment, your car will be very streetable.
Have you thought about doing the work yourself? It's not rocket science and can be fun if you have a place to work and tools.
Have you thought about doing the work yourself? It's not rocket science and can be fun if you have a place to work and tools.
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,559
Likes: 162
From: Cumming Georgia
rainman750, please feel free to give myself or one of the guys here at the shop a call at your convenience. We have been in business for 9 years dealing specifically with the LSX platform only, and have worked extensively with both solid roller and hydraulic combinations for either naturally aspirated or forced induction applications. We would be happy to discuss your goals with you and put together a package to fit your needs and budget.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,466
Likes: 104
From: Texas
As stated above, eventually, I plan to go forced induction. And I want to be able to daily drive the car in the summer time, in Florida. As it is now, it won't idle all the time with the A/C on, the cam is a little too radical for everyday street use. I get what you're saying xBoostx, but you are right in that I don't trust myself to be adjusting valve lash and there are exactly ZERO speed shops in my area that I trust at all. That's mainly why I'm looking into shops that are local to where the car is now. It's not just "fear", there are a lot of reasons for wanting to cahnge the current setup. If it's not cost effective to make the changes, I'll sell the car and start with another project....
Buy a Grandsport go Supercharger, headers, tune...etc. That's low maintenance, more reliable and feels just like stock, and your 600 HP at crank ....probably save you money in the end also.
Last edited by Cor430vette; Mar 31, 2015 at 05:32 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,050
Likes: 33
From: Cumming Georgia
Strong recommendation for Lamar Walden Automotive in Doraville (Atlanta area): http://lwaengines.com/ They have more Chevrolet performance experience than Vengeance and MTI combined, and price their work fairly.
OP, I know Greg sent over several estimates for your review. Feel free to contact him or me to discuss and adjust to your specfic goals/needs.
Regards,
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Ft Walton Beach FL
No doubt the folks at LWA are good guys, but stating they have more experience than other shops is not an accurate statement. Yes, they have been open longer than most, but when looking at GM LS experience I am quite confident there are several shops with more experience than they have.
OP, I know Greg sent over several estimates for your review. Feel free to contact him or me to discuss and adjust to your specfic goals/needs.
Regards,
OP, I know Greg sent over several estimates for your review. Feel free to contact him or me to discuss and adjust to your specfic goals/needs.
Regards,
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,050
Likes: 33
From: Cumming Georgia
Agreed, you guys are one of the first shops I reached out to. I asked for options of just changing the cam and keeping the heads that are on it, going with aftermarket heads/cam package and for going forced induction...I got two quotes, both for using aftermarket heads and I'm just not sure I want to spend $6,000- $7,000 for a head and cam swap. I had no idea LS7s were this expensive to have this kind of work done. Would love to hear more quotes or ideas based on the info I already submitted to you guys...
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Atoka OK
Since the cam effects the drivability much more than anything else, why not just put a milder low lash solid roller cam in it? Why would you need to change the heads and all the valvetrain to get drivability?