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yes sir ty never seen that one . i need to buy brake pad and rotors for the front. as last track i was at was hard to get stopped and killed my stock rotors and brake pads. looking for a rotor thats light and dont break the bank. i dont care about stopping that much lol. (know ppl r gonna hate on me for that) but just looking for something cheap and light that has good reviews. i wont be running that track anymore in the 1/4 just 1/8 .
Last edited by dekan513; Mar 29, 2015 at 01:12 PM.
yes sir ty never seen that one . i need to buy brake pad and rotors for the front. as last track i was at was hard to get stopped and killed my stock rotors and brake pads. looking for a rotor thats light and dont break the bank. i dont care about stopping that much lol. (know ppl r gonna hate on me for that) but just looking for something cheap and light that has good reviews. i wont be running that track anymore in the 1/4 just 1/8 .
Please remember, weight reduction - not by removing parts but replacing existing parts by lighter parts - costs money ..
Braking needs are far different on a road track than a dragstrip. The least costly lightest rotors are OEM base units. The price is low enough that you can replace them cheaply and use much more aggressive pads to get good stopping power for a road course. For the dragstrip, the same rotors will only need everyday pads, since very few tracks have such a short shutdown distance to require anything better.
I can easily make the first exit at every track I've run with the above setup. Admittedly, I'm only in the 125-127 mph range. If I elect to use the second exit, about half the distance is just coasting.
Doug at ECS ran 140's with bone stock base brakes, so you might ask him if he ever had problems to require something better.
2 of our track have long shut downs . other is extremely short. i trapped 139 and it stopps easy but its hard on the brakes. and all it would take is a slight mishap and be in the sand trapp like many other cars ive seen. didnt know if there was a rotor worth changing to.
2 of our track have long shut downs . other is extremely short. i trapped 139 and it stopps easy but its hard on the brakes. and all it would take is a slight mishap and be in the sand trapp like many other cars ive seen. didnt know if there was a rotor worth changing to.
I wouldn't worry about rotors, since as HOXXOH said base brakes are about as light as they come without going to 2 piece rotors($$$)...if I'm not mistaken he also drilled his base rotors for some extra weight savings.
I'd step up to a pad with good cold bite and you'll probably be able to handle that track with the short shutdown a little better. You may want to ask in the drag racing and forced induction sections as I'm sure there are folks trapping as high as you that have been through the same issue.
I wouldn't worry about rotors, since as HOXXOH said base brakes are about as light as they come without going to 2 piece rotors($$$)...if I'm not mistaken he also drilled his base rotors for some extra weight savings.
I'd step up to a pad with good cold bite and you'll probably be able to handle that track with the short shutdown a little better. You may want to ask in the drag racing and forced induction sections as I'm sure there are folks trapping as high as you that have been through the same issue.
Good luck and stay safe.
my rotors r heat spotted whatever u call that. can a person have them drilled. i think heat is my main issue to atm with that.
There are many forum members here having much more expertise than I have, but drilling holes in the rotors makes them prone to cracks due to extra stress.
If you can afford them, opt for slotted rotors.
Hmmm, this is a vague question but I'll give my two cents on this thread. There are many ways to shed weight from a car/Corvette. Removing the passenger seat, all of the interior carpet, factory stereo removal, lighter battery, lighter aftermarket wheels so on and so on. If you follow the thread that was provided on the Halltech and Katech weighted battle those parts are crazy expensive and have endless combinations.
There are many forum members here having much more expertise than I have, but drilling holes in the rotors makes them prone to cracks due to extra stress.
If you can afford them, opt for slotted rotors.
Rotors crack due to unequal cooling. Holes tend to create areas where the cooling can be more rapid, such as the interior edges of the holes which are not radiused. How you drive can allow rotors to cool more evenly. I'm guessing I have around 60K miles on the base rotors i drilled and still no cracks.
SEVINN has the right idea to use a pad that is more aggressive, but yet not one that requires heat to work well.
I've done lots of little things to reduce weight without changing the drivability. Every ounce counts.
i know on my 5th gen it was easy to find ways to remove weight. its a little tougher on this car. but i got a 17lb braillie and moved to the back. removed front sway bar. engine covers. got a drag pack. but my front skinnes r not light. but i keep them on almost year round. lol.
r they crash bars or anything behind the bumpers on these cars?
and when u pull the seats does the airbag light have to be reset after u reinstall them. when thru that on my camaro and costed me a 100 bucks.