What additional should I do with fuel tanks out?

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Apr 2, 2015 | 03:47 PM
  #1  
Okay, forum gurus, I have to have the fuel tanks removed on my 2007 Z06 due to fuel getting into my purge canister(think one of the solenoids failed).

I read about possible tank issues on some 2007 vehicles, so what else should I have done with the tanks while they are out? Can all the seals and o-rings be sourced through GM so they can be replaced during this work? Is the fuel tank pressure sensor pretty reliable on these vehicles, as I haven't really found any threads about a failure in here. I know it is basically a MAP sensor, but wondering if I should replace it while the tanks are down.

Anyone have a Carbon Fiber drive shaft they want to sell me for a reasonable price?

I am told the tanks can be maneuvered out on a manual Vette, but I think my installer is dropping the drivetrain to get them out. I am running the DYAD clutch. Any checks that should be done on it? No problems with it, just wondering.
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Apr 2, 2015 | 04:09 PM
  #2  
FYI:

I had the tank removed without dropping the drivetrain in my 2005 6mn to replace the pump. This was done by my dealer, under warranty.
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Apr 2, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #3  
If I had both tanks out, I would closely inspect both fuel level sensors. There have been many issues with them over the years. Look at the wiper area for the sensor, if it is corroded or worn, I would replace them with new sensors.
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Apr 2, 2015 | 06:45 PM
  #4  
Quote: Okay, forum gurus, I have to have the fuel tanks removed on my 2007 Z06 due to fuel getting into my purge canister(think one of the solenoids failed).

I read about possible tank issues on some 2007 vehicles, so what else should I have done with the tanks while they are out? Can all the seals and o-rings be sourced through GM so they can be replaced during this work? Is the fuel tank pressure sensor pretty reliable on these vehicles, as I haven't really found any threads about a failure in here. I know it is basically a MAP sensor, but wondering if I should replace it while the tanks are down.

Anyone have a Carbon Fiber drive shaft they want to sell me for a reasonable price?

I am told the tanks can be maneuvered out on a manual Vette, but I think my installer is dropping the drivetrain to get them out. I am running the DYAD clutch. Any checks that should be done on it? No problems with it, just wondering.
The drivetrain definitely doesn't need to be pulled to drop the tanks.

The #1 reason the tanks have to come out is for flakey fuel level senders. I would definitely change them. Note that 2007 was the year GM reversed the resistance range of the sender, so make sure you get the correct part for your vehicle. The easiest way is to test the ones you've got with a VOM.

I would also change all the lines and snap-in plastic parts that are _inside_ the crossover tube, because they tend to get strained and/or displaced during removal, and they're relatively cheap.

If the drivetrain is coming down, now's the time to install a remote clutch bleeder. With the remote bleeder you can completely flush your clutch fluid in minutes, which will prolong the life of your clutch hydraulics.
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Apr 2, 2015 | 07:23 PM
  #5  
Yes, tanks can be pulled without pulling the drivetrain, but it is a royal pain to do and visibility is nada. It's very easy to screw up one seal during reassembly, then you have to pull it all back apart once you figure out something doesn't work right
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Apr 2, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #6  
Quote:
If the drivetrain is coming down, now's the time to install a remote clutch bleeder. With the remote bleeder you can completely flush your clutch fluid in minutes, which will prolong the life of your clutch hydraulics.
I will definitely make sure the level sensors are verified once the tanks are out and, at the very least, make sure they are clean. No problems with the level til now, but the vehicle is only getting older. Already have the bleeder. One of the best mods I made on this vehicle so far.


Quote: Yes, tanks can be pulled without pulling the drivetrain, but it is a royal pain to do and visibility is nada. It's very easy to screw up one seal during reassembly, then you have to pull it all back apart once you figure out something doesn't work right
I discussed this with my shop and this is the same thought they had. I really want to make sure all seals that deal with the crossover tube are replaced, so no sense in taking the short-cut and try to push them back over the drivetrain and straining those seals somehow.
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Apr 3, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #7  
I would really advise replacing the fuel pump module (driver's) and sending unit (passenger's).
There is a pretty in depth discussion here on the fuel leaks:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ty-recall.html


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Apr 3, 2015 | 02:45 PM
  #8  
Quote: I would really advise replacing the fuel pump module (driver's) and sending unit (passenger's).
There is a pretty in depth discussion here on the fuel leaks:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ty-recall.html
I will admit right now I didn't read every reply in that thread, but it does seem to indicate the Z06 pump is the replacement part. My Vette is a Z06. I do have a fuel smell with mine, but it is at partial tank when the ECM goes through the various EVAP commands to vent/purge the canister, but is being plugged at the vapor canister. What is the reality of the Z06 pump? I guess I need to go through that thread comment for comment.
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Apr 3, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #9  
Quote: I will admit right now I didn't read every reply in that thread, but it does seem to indicate the Z06 pump is the replacement part. My Vette is a Z06. I do have a fuel smell with mine, but it is at partial tank when the ECM goes through the various EVAP commands to vent/purge the canister, but is being plugged at the vapor canister. What is the reality of the Z06 pump? I guess I need to go through that thread comment for comment.
Right on. Do you still have the part number on your fuel pump? I don't think it matters what pump you currently have though. The Z06 still has the same issue. It seems as if the newest pump module supersedes all previous part numbers whether they be a base or z06.

Look REALLY closely at the high pressure side of your pump module in the area that I highlight in that video. Look for any signs of cracking or stress. Also, other than the typical road dust, there shouldn't be any oily residue on top of the module. They always seep before they start spraying.
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Apr 3, 2015 | 06:07 PM
  #10  
Quote: Right on. Do you still have the part number on your fuel pump? I don't think it matters what pump you currently have though. The Z06 still has the same issue. It seems as if the newest pump module supersedes all previous part numbers whether they be a base or z06.

Look REALLY closely at the high pressure side of your pump module in the area that I highlight in that video. Look for any signs of cracking or stress. Also, other than the typical road dust, there shouldn't be any oily residue on top of the module. They always seep before they start spraying.
Thank you. It appears the 2007 Z06 fuel pump part number was superseded a while back(couldn't find a date for it). The new number is 19149687 which matches the part number you have in that thread. I know part numbers get superseded for change in manufacturer, change in design and build. I'm not sure what to think about this now, as the plan was my installer would have all parts and get it done so I can get back on the road late the next day. My best option is to order a pump, but I won't know that mine is bad. Not really a cool option, IMO. Hard to not go this direction, since the fuel smell problem has been fairly constant on my car for a while now…….
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Apr 3, 2015 | 06:20 PM
  #11  
Quote: Thank you. It appears the 2007 Z06 fuel pump part number was superseded a while back(couldn't find a date for it). The new number is 19149687 which matches the part number you have in that thread. I know part numbers get superseded for change in manufacturer, change in design and build. I'm not sure what to think about this now, as the plan was my installer would have all parts and get it done so I can get back on the road late the next day. My best option is to order a pump, but I won't know that mine is bad. Not really a cool option, IMO. Hard to not go this direction, since the fuel smell problem has been fairly constant on my car for a while now…….
I know what you mean. It's not a cheap thing to do but....it's definitely cheaper now than later.

Since I've done mine it's been 0 fuel smell. Even after fill up. Full service typically has the pump in stock. If it's not at the store, they should have it at the warehouse.

Forgive me if I missed it in the original post, but do you have the tanks out yet?
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Apr 3, 2015 | 07:40 PM
  #12  
Quote:
Forgive me if I missed it in the original post, but do you have the tanks out yet?
No, the tanks are not out yet. I don't drive the vehicle much and have been pushing this whole issue off for a while. I have been worried the tanks had to come out for a while and just didn't want to budget the bill for the fix until now. I am trying to source the o-rings for the cross-over tube. I have the fuel pump, fuel tank pressure sender, and the EVAP canister ordered. Going to attack everything that needs the tanks out while the tanks are out.

Really appreciate you linking your thread on the fuel pump connections.
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Apr 5, 2015 | 02:13 PM
  #13  
If you have ever considered adding forced induction, now would be the time to add the larger pump.
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