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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 12:10 PM
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Default Cooling Fan

I have a 2011 GS, 5800m, bone stock, no tune. Last year was my first year of ownership. The temps would run cruising at 189 - 194, a little slower speeds it might go up to 206. I took the car out yesterday, and had temps up to 216. Never did I see that before. Searching this forum, I found that the fan should kick on at 204. Last year, from what i observed on the DIC, I assume that was happening. From crawling under the car, I observed the fan now seems to be kicking in around 214.

So there is change from last year. I fear it is an indicator of something that is failing. Anyone hear of this, or have any suggestions?
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by FtWorth24
I have a 2011 GS, 5800m, bone stock, no tune. Last year was my first year of ownership. The temps would run cruising at 189 - 194, a little slower speeds it might go up to 206. I took the car out yesterday, and had temps up to 216. Never did I see that before. Searching this forum, I found that the fan should kick on at 204. Last year, from what i observed on the DIC, I assume that was happening. From crawling under the car, I observed the fan now seems to be kicking in around 214.

So there is change from last year. I fear it is an indicator of something that is failing. Anyone hear of this, or have any suggestions?
your temperatures are in the normal operating range of what they have been designed to run
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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Default Cooling fan follow up

IROK - I understand that it is the normal range, but not compared to previous driving.

Also, went out and double checked....fan kicks on at 212 degrees, not 204 degrees.
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 06:18 PM
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Check the fan connectors, both the one going to the controller, and the one on the passenger side back of the radiator.

They may be corridor/loose, and not allowing current to the fan until it ramps up in percentage to drive the fan.

As for the fan controller, it's controlled by the ECM, so if the ECM was getting a funky reading from the ECT sensor, you would be seeing that in the dash gauges as well (which the ECM also controls).

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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Check the fan connectors, both the one going to the controller, and the one on the passenger side back of the radiator.

They may be corridor/loose, and not allowing current to the fan until it ramps up in percentage to drive the fan.

As for the fan controller, it's controlled by the ECM, so if the ECM was getting a funky reading from the ECT sensor, you would be seeing that in the dash gauges as well (which the ECM also controls).

The connectors look pristine, other than driving the car and see if it suddenly wants to return to its old self, I most likely will have to take it in!
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 12:35 PM
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If you take it in, I'm not sure that anyone could find anything wrong because your numbers are normal. It may end up being some diagnostic money that finds nothing and is wasted. The mechanic may not be able to explain the difference between the old temps and the new ones if the new ones are normal.

Also, with a flashlight, you can easily see the fan spinning from the top of the car (passenger side is easiest) so you can work diagnostics without having to crawl underneath. You might check the radiator for a piece of debris that could be slowing airflow.

With the car off, try spinning the fan by hand and make sure the bearings are in good shape. I'm not sure whether the ecm gets feedback from the fan to confirm that it is actually doing what the ecm is asking it to do.

Last edited by cclive; Apr 14, 2015 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 07:46 PM
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Ditto, get the front end up, and look inside the radiator opening on the bottom of the car. You could have sucked in debris that is now blocking the air flow threw the radiator.

Screen is after market, but this is the radiator opening on the bottom of the car, and the front of the radiator is up and back of this opening.



Better yet, make sure that you did not rip the dams off just behind the opening. The center and side air dams creates a negative air pressure void behind the radiator to allows for a positive air pressure feed through the radiator front side for proper cooling.

Last edited by Dano523; Apr 14, 2015 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FtWorth24
I have a 2011 GS, 5800m, bone stock, no tune. Last year was my first year of ownership. The temps would run cruising at 189 - 194, a little slower speeds it might go up to 206. I took the car out yesterday, and had temps up to 216. Never did I see that before. Searching this forum, I found that the fan should kick on at 204. Last year, from what i observed on the DIC, I assume that was happening. From crawling under the car, I observed the fan now seems to be kicking in around 214.

So there is change from last year. I fear it is an indicator of something that is failing. Anyone hear of this, or have any suggestions?
I had a similar problem and traced it back to the grounds for the ECM and/or the Fan Control module. The thread below has good info on testing but in the end it was related to the grounds.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...won-t-run.html

These threads give great info on the grounds and locations

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...tte-Grounds?s=
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locations.html
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