Was at a track today with 2011 z06 with factory Z07 package/
set torque to 90 at start of day and a couple of nuts took 1.5 turns to set torque ( no big deal first time out with car)
checked at lunch and a couple of other turned .75 turns and set,
checked a couple runs later and several on each wheel went around 1.5 turns
went home after that ( never had that happen)
car is new to me low mileage with factory rims, tires etc.
and thoughts?

almost felt like studs were finishing seating ( like after you change them and suck them in with a nut)

 

Probably were - and you should torque to 100 #-ft, not 90.

 

Most track rats re torque lugs after each session..

The spec on the C6 Z06 is 100#

 

Youve got the wrong lug nuts!!!!
Your nuts should have a tapered seat About a 60* angle on them.
Youre using a shouldered nut on a conical seat. Damn lucky you didnt lose your wheels

 

I had the same thought when viewing wheel. But thought it might be a difference in zo6 wheels/or after market wheels.


But your thoughts have hit the nail........ (IMHO) ....http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s...mString=search

 

The pics were a big help. I've personally never seen any factory or aftermarket C6 vette wheel use anything but a tapered lug nut. (but there probably are some out there)

 

Then the question becomes, why? Why are those lugs there on your supposedly stock wheels/car? You may want to ask the prior owner, if it isn't a dealer. It's not like they're special-looking lugs. Did you decide to replace them?

 

I am not convinced that they are wrong. I have never seen aftermarket lug nuts with tin covers and look at the step in the wheel where the lug nut goes.

Just for fun, I looked up ZR1 lug nuts and GM shows a different nut for a ZR1 than for a Z06 or base.

 

They are definitely wrong. Those look just like oem toyota lugnuts.

 

OK, so they use junk lug nuts just like GM and Chrysler!

 

Maybe you're using the wrong lugnuts too...

 

I think these rims need shank style lug nuts as there is a very large space between the wheel stud and the hole in the rim

stud is not tight to rim hole like something is supposed to fill it

 

Wrong style lug nut, and does not have enough bearing surface area to hold the torque correctly.

The channel is the factory rims are tapered, and the lug needs to be tapered to correctly mat up with the taper entry channel of the rim to have the correct needed amount of surface bearing area to hold the bolt correctly (while not over torquing the lug nuts to peen the rim channels instead.

http://www.billetspecialties.com/e-t...g-nuts/999978/

 

check out these pictures to see what you think

 

The bottom entry channel of the rim for the lug nut is not flat, but 60*tapered instead. So you have the nipple bottom part of the lug that indexes the rim to the lug, then the section above the nipple that needs to make to the curvature of the rim taper section.

So yes, the correct thread of the lug nut is 12MMx 1.5 pitch, but the bottom contact area of the lug nut needs to be tapers to correctly mate with the tapered entry of the rim channel to achieve the needed mating surface tension to hold the nuts in torque tension of 100ftlbs.




So on your lug nuts now, it only the slight rim of bottom washer that is making contact to both the rim (outside the taper entry section) and the actual lug nut (where the rim section tapers, the bottom washer will just bend downward), and not enough surface tension area to hold the lug nuts tight to the correct tension of 100ftlbs.

To bottom line it, you over torque on the lug nuts, it will just peen the rim softer material itself (and make pulling the lugs off later a monster). So since the rim material is a softer metal, you need more surface tension of the lugs to the rims instead, and why the the rims are taper entry for the lug, and the lug tapered to match the rim taper entry section.

Bluntly, the lug nuts you have now are for a non taper entry channel (bottom of channel flat), and where you can torque to much higher than 100ftlbs.


So in the below photo, yous rims are the ones on the very left, and you are trying to use a middle type lug nut in the rim instead.


On the positive side, you decide to stick these type rims on the Vet, you do have the lug nuts for it.

 

awesome agree 100 %
what is the name and or part number for the chrome lug shown in the picture? That is what I need
Thanks so much

 

Wrong Those rims above will take a std lug nut with a tapered seat.
The Lug nuts you currently have are meant for this type of wheel.

Everything else Dano523 said is correct.

 

this is what I have found do these look correct


I have them the part number is 999978 e-t conical seat closed end lug nut,
You can get them by giving me a call or going thur one of our dealers like jegs or summit
Jegs was doing free shipping so you might want to check them out first same part number.

Ryan Martin

Customer Service Representative
Billet Specialties, Inc.
RMartin@billetspecialties.com
www.billetspecialties.com
www.bforgedwheels.com
P - (708) 588-0505
F - (708) 588-7181

 

I may not be understanding the situation, so please excuse me for some clarification. Those are standard Speedline aluminum wheels that are oem. It looks like the lug nuts are the wrong design. I am not understanding why you are not getting oem lug nuts and communicating with Billet Specialties. It seems to me like it would be better to communicate with a dealer parts department to get the oem lug nuts. It would also be interesting to figure out why the current lug nuts are on the car...how did they get there?

 

I could be wrong but I think some of the old C4 OE lugs were covered lug nuts.