06 C6Z06 Trans Problem
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
06 C6Z06 Trans Problem
Friend of mine has a 2006 C6Z and is having a major trans problem. the shifter lever will "Shift" threw the gears when the car is off, once you start the car it doesnt like to go into all the gears. When the car is running and in "Neutral" and you let out the clutch the car is still in gear. When the car is in Reverse it still is in a forward gear and wants to go forward. we have the car in our shop now getting ready to take out the trans, any suggestions on what to look for when its out? have a feeling its inside the trans not linkage or something else....
S
S
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I will verify again the clutch fluid and trans fluid are full. It drives forward in reverse... defiantly not a roll it is a forward moving gear. couple of the gears are hard to get into gear, almost blocked off when shifting it into that gear (not skip shift). No noises. the trans is still in gear when the shifter is in neutral, it will not go out of gear.
Just verified, the car has a short throw shifter in it otherwise the car is stock.
S
Just verified, the car has a short throw shifter in it otherwise the car is stock.
S
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
can i check that from under the car or will i have to drop the trans to inspect? it does feel normal when the car is off and you "shift" threw the gears, once you start the car it feels like it binds/jams up.
S
S
Last edited by RedZMonte; 06-29-2015 at 12:09 PM.
#7
Race Director
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
It is in the console from above attached to the back of the shifter box. The shifter box could also be the issue. You will kill about an hour checking it, and after your last comment, sounds like you have bigger problems.
#8
Team Owner
First thing to check is the shifter linkage/box from the console...pulling the trans should come after this step, not before...especially since the shifter has been modified (and possibly not correctly)
#9
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
I do know that MGW is a mfr of short throw shifters for C6s (and other cars), and over a period of years and several different models of his shifter about 2 or so years ago, he decided to make part of his "kit" a new shifter box. His reasoning was that there were too many issues w. old boxes that sometimes caused his shifter to either not work properly or the trans itself to not work properly. This may not help OP's situation, but it'd be good to find out if it is one of the newer, MGW shifter kits with a new box in it, or not. If it is, you can call the owner of MGW, George, and ask him for his opinion. I know he sometimes responds to issues/concerns with his shifter on this CorvetteForum--but there are very few issues/posts on that topic. And he and his product are considered some of the best on CF.
#10
Step one since you really want to get this out of the way to being with.
Check the clutch fluid in the tank and if darker than a light amber color, ranger method to flush it.
Step two, pull the Shifter box (assembly) out of the car, then pull the shifter box apart.
This will get center console out of the car to you can pull the shifter box out of the car.
Note, at 13:50, instead of just removing the shifter from the lower plate, remove the three T-45 bolt to pull the entire shifter and box out of the car instead.
Also, since your center console has the tomb stone at the back of it, the tomb stone will pop up/unsnapped with the back pried straight up so you can get to the 2 bolts under it.
As for pulling the shifter and box, you have three T45 bolts that need to be removed. Two are on the passenger side of the shifter box that bolt the lower box to the tube rail, while the last one is the coupling on rear box shaft to the trans shifter shaft itself. Also, before pulling the box, make sure that the trans in neutral.
Shifter box assembly in hand, pull it apart to clean and check the parts. If you post of a photo of the shifter box assembly so we know what is in the car (OEM or after market), I can do a detail write up on how to pull it apart and what to check for to see if any parts need to be replace, and how to lube and put it back together correctly lubed and the bolt torqued to spec (so the shifter assembly is tight again).
The three T45 bolts can be seen, as well as the end ball rubber piece this photo.
As for why to pull the shifter box, may have an after market shifter that the bottom ball is loose/ an OEM shifter that the ball rubber cap is falling apart, the top shifter plate bolts are loose, or just the shifter box, or rear coupling not bolted correctly down to the car instead (slop in the shifter assembly causing the shifting problems). Also, with the box out, this will allow you to feel if the back shifter coupling worn out a well (the back knuckle of where the trans shaft bolts to the trans it self behind the coupling location that you just unbolted from the box) .
Note, if you are going to drop the trans, then the shifter coupling has to be disconnected, and the center console has to be pulled before the drive line can be dropped to pull the Trans with it.
As for reinstalling the shifter box with the correct shifter index, it pretty easy.
The shifter shaft in the shifter box gets locked into it neutral position , drop the shifter box (assembly) back with the boxes rear shaft slipped into the trans shifter shaft coupling, install the box T bolts on the loose side, install the coupling bolt, and with the shifter shaft bolts centered'ish in the box slots for them, tighten the coupling bolt to 22ftlbs, tighten the box side T bolts to 22ftlbs, then unlock the shifter shaft from the box.
Note, if someone was in dinking around with the shifter before hand, best guess is that they did not torque the bolts correctly, and as you move the shifter, the shaft top plate to box, box to frame, or the box shaft to coupler on the trans shaft are moving all over the place. If they replace the shifter shaft on the lower box, then the problem could be inside the box instead (end ball bushing, or the box shaft bushing worn out instead.
Now with the clutch fluid clean, the shifter shaft assembly weeded out for any slop, or it not bolted down tight or not correctly indexed, you have this out of the way to really see if the problem is in the trans instead (trans shifter index linkage or dog legs worn out inside the trans, and why the trans is having problems itself).
Check the clutch fluid in the tank and if darker than a light amber color, ranger method to flush it.
Step two, pull the Shifter box (assembly) out of the car, then pull the shifter box apart.
This will get center console out of the car to you can pull the shifter box out of the car.
Note, at 13:50, instead of just removing the shifter from the lower plate, remove the three T-45 bolt to pull the entire shifter and box out of the car instead.
Also, since your center console has the tomb stone at the back of it, the tomb stone will pop up/unsnapped with the back pried straight up so you can get to the 2 bolts under it.
As for pulling the shifter and box, you have three T45 bolts that need to be removed. Two are on the passenger side of the shifter box that bolt the lower box to the tube rail, while the last one is the coupling on rear box shaft to the trans shifter shaft itself. Also, before pulling the box, make sure that the trans in neutral.
Shifter box assembly in hand, pull it apart to clean and check the parts. If you post of a photo of the shifter box assembly so we know what is in the car (OEM or after market), I can do a detail write up on how to pull it apart and what to check for to see if any parts need to be replace, and how to lube and put it back together correctly lubed and the bolt torqued to spec (so the shifter assembly is tight again).
The three T45 bolts can be seen, as well as the end ball rubber piece this photo.
As for why to pull the shifter box, may have an after market shifter that the bottom ball is loose/ an OEM shifter that the ball rubber cap is falling apart, the top shifter plate bolts are loose, or just the shifter box, or rear coupling not bolted correctly down to the car instead (slop in the shifter assembly causing the shifting problems). Also, with the box out, this will allow you to feel if the back shifter coupling worn out a well (the back knuckle of where the trans shaft bolts to the trans it self behind the coupling location that you just unbolted from the box) .
Note, if you are going to drop the trans, then the shifter coupling has to be disconnected, and the center console has to be pulled before the drive line can be dropped to pull the Trans with it.
As for reinstalling the shifter box with the correct shifter index, it pretty easy.
The shifter shaft in the shifter box gets locked into it neutral position , drop the shifter box (assembly) back with the boxes rear shaft slipped into the trans shifter shaft coupling, install the box T bolts on the loose side, install the coupling bolt, and with the shifter shaft bolts centered'ish in the box slots for them, tighten the coupling bolt to 22ftlbs, tighten the box side T bolts to 22ftlbs, then unlock the shifter shaft from the box.
Note, if someone was in dinking around with the shifter before hand, best guess is that they did not torque the bolts correctly, and as you move the shifter, the shaft top plate to box, box to frame, or the box shaft to coupler on the trans shaft are moving all over the place. If they replace the shifter shaft on the lower box, then the problem could be inside the box instead (end ball bushing, or the box shaft bushing worn out instead.
Now with the clutch fluid clean, the shifter shaft assembly weeded out for any slop, or it not bolted down tight or not correctly indexed, you have this out of the way to really see if the problem is in the trans instead (trans shifter index linkage or dog legs worn out inside the trans, and why the trans is having problems itself).
Last edited by Dano523; 06-30-2015 at 02:05 PM.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Checked all the listed suggestions above... we have done a few C5 clutches so we have pulled them before, the C6 was very simmilar aside from a couple small differences.. But we Pulled it out, defiantly in the transmission. Getting quotes for rebuild but also considering a good used trans. For the life of me i cannot remember the vender on here that sells salvage/recycled corvette parts... anyone help me out and remind me of their name... I see them on here quite often but for the life of me cant remember who..
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
#12
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
wasn't it corvette recycler? recycling. look under that as a .com.
Last edited by AORoads; 06-30-2015 at 04:18 PM.
#13
Tech Contributor
Dano523 what a great post!
Thanks for taking that time, posts like that are what make this forum great.
Marc@vettenuts.net has taken good care of me with used Vette parts. He parts them out and is located in TN.
http://vettenuts.net
You also see them on eBay from time to time.
Thanks for taking that time, posts like that are what make this forum great.
Marc@vettenuts.net has taken good care of me with used Vette parts. He parts them out and is located in TN.
http://vettenuts.net
You also see them on eBay from time to time.
#15
Yep, let the trans slip into gears by itself when shifting correctly, and you don't have these problems.
Sling shot the trans through gears with the shifter, instead of allowing the syncs to work as they where designed to when shifting, and not hard to wear a trans out quickly instead.
As for the trans, unless the driver is going to change the way that he shifts, then time to tear the trans down himself and rebuild it (only a few hundred in needed parts). It's not hard to rebuild a T-56, and as stated, if he is driving the same way after the rebuild, will just be a matter of time before he has to pull it down again, to change the worn out shift link ,and shift forks with worn out pads.
Last edited by Dano523; 07-01-2015 at 12:13 PM.