Help identifying a part
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 563
Likes: 2
From: Tehran
Help identifying a part
Hi all,
possibly a silly question but need help to identify the name of this part - we unfortunately have different terms in the UK so trying to order the right one from the US can be tricky!
This is for a C6 Z06 (2006) - is this the same as a c6 part is another question.
Part highlighted in yellow, has a slight bit of play - whilst I am at it I may as replace the fronts at the same time
Thanks in advance
Mike
possibly a silly question but need help to identify the name of this part - we unfortunately have different terms in the UK so trying to order the right one from the US can be tricky!
This is for a C6 Z06 (2006) - is this the same as a c6 part is another question.
Part highlighted in yellow, has a slight bit of play - whilst I am at it I may as replace the fronts at the same time
Thanks in advance
Mike
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,796
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From: skiatook oklahoma
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 30,317
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From: Reading PA
You can order them on our site below and we ship to the UK and you can calculate it right on the website.
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/oe-gm/20822934
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/oe-gm/20822934
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Pontiac Quebec
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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Ditto with the OEM's, do a amazon search for "gm # 20822934" and may be able to get the local or with free shipping for around $120.
Also, replace all 4 at the same time. There good for around 30K, until one of more gets questionable and they need to be replaced again.
When your replace them, make sure that the car is either up off the ground, or on the ground. Do not replace them with one side jacked up, and the other side down on the ground.
Also note that the center shaft has a T bit socket to hold the shaft as you start to tighten the bolts to 53ftlbs.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...placement.html
Also, replace all 4 at the same time. There good for around 30K, until one of more gets questionable and they need to be replaced again.
When your replace them, make sure that the car is either up off the ground, or on the ground. Do not replace them with one side jacked up, and the other side down on the ground.
Also note that the center shaft has a T bit socket to hold the shaft as you start to tighten the bolts to 53ftlbs.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...placement.html
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 563
Likes: 2
From: Tehran
thanks all, sourced one in the UK (I will replace all 4 but only one has failed at the minute) and will then get the 3 from trader above as need to get it done in next 2 weeks as off on a road trip and cannot risk airfreight.
Again thanks for help, when it comes to most parts I stick to OEM out of preference
Again thanks for help, when it comes to most parts I stick to OEM out of preference
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
I'm just a millwright/machinist. yor right! those OEM aluminum or is it pot metal? with a plastic insert and no grease fittings must be better then a steel ball and socket and a steel frame and a grease fitting AND a rubber boot, and to the guy who said you can get a set of OEM's on Amazon for $120 boy did you get ripped I found them for $15.00 a piece
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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I'm just a millwright/machinist. yor right! those OEM aluminum or is it pot metal? with a plastic insert and no grease fittings must be better then a steel ball and socket and a steel frame and a grease fitting AND a rubber boot, and to the guy who said you can get a set of OEM's on Amazon for $120 boy did you get ripped I found them for $15.00 a piece
Note, it was the old C5's that the bodies where FRP instead, and would have problems with the ball/cup inserts that come loose from the bodies instead.
As for grease fitting, both come pre-lubed, and if think that your going to need to relube either units before they wear out, think again. Hell, most of the time with a grease fitting, the end user ends up over greasing to just blow the seals out instead.
Plus lets face it, the center section rod to the end cup carriers is not always the best welding that I have ever seen on the moog units (the fact that these welds hold together), just goes to prove the the aluminum cross section body on the OEM is in no fear of bending).
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,755
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From: Baton Rouge LA
St. Jude Donor '14, '16
I'm just a millwright/machinist. yor right! those OEM aluminum or is it pot metal? with a plastic insert and no grease fittings must be better then a steel ball and socket and a steel frame and a grease fitting AND a rubber boot, and to the guy who said you can get a set of OEM's on Amazon for $120 boy did you get ripped I found them for $15.00 a piece
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
Both the OEM and mog have the same type ball.cup assemblies , but with the OEM's, the body is made of aluminum (what the above cups are mated to) that never has a problem itself, so the OEM's are lighter than the Mog units (sports car, and added oz's do add up to lbs very quickly).
Note, it was the old C5's that the bodies where FRP instead, and would have problems with the ball/cup inserts that come loose from the bodies instead.
As for grease fitting, both come pre-lubed, and if think that your going to need to relube either units before they wear out, think again. Hell, most of the time with a grease fitting, the end user ends up over greasing to just blow the seals out instead.
Plus lets face it, the center section rod to the end cup carriers is not always the best welding that I have ever seen on the moog units (the fact that these welds hold together), just goes to prove the the aluminum cross section body on the OEM is in no fear of bending).
Note, it was the old C5's that the bodies where FRP instead, and would have problems with the ball/cup inserts that come loose from the bodies instead.
As for grease fitting, both come pre-lubed, and if think that your going to need to relube either units before they wear out, think again. Hell, most of the time with a grease fitting, the end user ends up over greasing to just blow the seals out instead.
Plus lets face it, the center section rod to the end cup carriers is not always the best welding that I have ever seen on the moog units (the fact that these welds hold together), just goes to prove the the aluminum cross section body on the OEM is in no fear of bending).
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 563
Likes: 2
From: Tehran
guys many thanks for your help, I grabbed the last one in the UK as needed job sorted ahead of a road trip next week.
Noise now resolved, when I get back will order 4 from trader above along with other parts but for now the issue is fixed.
Anyone else doing it, you need an 18mm socket and either a 18 or 19mm open ended spanner to cap the bolt whilst undoing/doing up.
All done to 56ft/lb or 72nm
Cheers all
Noise now resolved, when I get back will order 4 from trader above along with other parts but for now the issue is fixed.
Anyone else doing it, you need an 18mm socket and either a 18 or 19mm open ended spanner to cap the bolt whilst undoing/doing up.
All done to 56ft/lb or 72nm
Cheers all