I have a 2012 GS M6, and want to know the options of SC.

The main things I'm looking for:
1 - Put all the power to the ground with the stock suspension setup (I have MRC if that helps).
2 - Keeping the stock engine internals
3 - When driving normally, keeping the sounds relatively the same, ie I dont want to feel I'm driving a race car.

With that being said, what is the best setup around?

I'm not interested in running the 9s or low 10s, but would it be possible to run the low 11s/high 10s with this laundry list of requirements?

 

A&A Si V3 kit with the quiet BOV should fit the build

 

How much does a full kit/install/tune go for like you mentioned?

 

My A&A wasn't that quiet. As a matter of fact I took my A&A off and put a Edelbrock on and it is a lot quieter.

 

Your wasting your time with a SC for the little gain of power you want in power to put you in the high 10's.

OBX headers with high flow cats and tune will yield you the power your looking for around $1200 instead.

With SC on a LS done correctly, your in the $10K range on just the motor, and will need to upgrade the drive line as well. SC's at normal pressures (not under driven) for the LS motor will put the motor into the 600HP+ range as a start point.

 

1. Traction will have to be managed using the throttle in 1st and 2nd gear, especially those who have the Z51 or GS gearbox. You do have the benefit of the GS's wider tires. Wider is not always the answer, but stickier is. However, the street drag radials are not suitable for wet weather. So there is a tradeoff.

2. Keeping the stock internals and exhaust with no meth, the A&A V3 Si kit will yield 550-600 rwhp. Also, depending on the mileage and condition, the oem LS7/3 clutch might start to slip. A Mantic dual disc clutch will resolve that issue. If your harmonic balancer has a slight wobble it would be a great opportunity to swap it out for an ATI HB and pin the crank one time. Since you have a GS with the oil coolers, A&A recommends the DeWitts radiator to be installed. This will allow double the cooling capacity and provisions for the engine oil cooler and transmission oil cooler.

3. The A&A kit comes with filter on the BOV valve to keep things quiet. What is nice about the A&A V3 Si kit is that it's relatively quiet when cruising. You will hear the BOV valve swooshing air between shifts, but I never considered it to be loud cruising.

Finally, a quality tune will bring the package together allowing the car to cruise like it came from the factory, but wicked when you get into the gas. Yes, while it is expensive, there is no better bang for the buck when it comes to supercharging.

 

Edelbrock eForce supercharger isn't really noticeable in my 2012 base. Very quiet, but gave me ~ +150 HP gain

 

Honestly, any blower is going to conflict big time with #1. My GS with just Z06 exhaust manifolds and A&A makes 600RWHP. With 335/25R20s (on ZR1/Cup wheels), 1st is completely useless, 2nd is mostly uselss, and even 3rd can be difficult to get traction. Heck, I've even had the rear break loose shifting to 4th. The A&A is quiet except for the blow-off, which is pretty loud. You could probably use the Tial QR (ECS), which is supposed to be quieter, or do a double blow-off setup. Honestly though, even with the stock A&A blow-off, you get used to it pretty quick. It's not obnoxious, and while my wife commented on it after I got the blower done, she said it really doesn't bother her.

As for stock internals, the LS3 has been shown to be very reliable at the 600-700RWHP level with a blower. There have actually been quite a few with way more than that, but 750RWHP, your mileage may vary.

As for drivability, a blower will be just fine. My car feels and acts stock until I step on it (one of the benefits of a centri blower), but the PD blowers shouldn't feel much different at part/light throttle either. If you don't want a race car feel, keep the stock manifolds or do Z06 manifolds with cats. The car will sound stock until you hammer on it, and you won't have any smell from running without cats. You won't have any lope if you keep the stock cam, and the car will be very reliable with a basic blower setup.

 

hows the "heat soak" with that? I had a friend with a "maggie" and on a hot day he actually lost HP.

 

stage one kit, so the blower is only running a 3-3/4" pulley; with the supercharger being way under driven. So regarding heat soak, not a concern.

At around 3" pulley is where you start to get heat soak, but a meth kit resolves that all the way down to around a 2.6" pulley.

With the TVS-2300 cranked up to 23K at red line on a LS motor (2.3" pulley and HB with 25% over drive), heat soak comes pretty fast, even with a Meth kit but them again, your talking in the 700hp range, and pretty much reserved for just strip brief strip runs instead.