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Poor idle help please

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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 08:18 PM
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Default Poor idle help please

06 Z06 Maggie S/C, done right. Car make 700+ hp. When I am approaching a stop engage clutch and it wants to die, low rpm and will bounce between 2-300 up to 1100 rpm. Has died a couple of times. The car has 16000 miles and runs strong. Does seem to surge a little. The car is new to me and past owner has no idea of any problems. The air/fuel ratio meter seems erratic going all over the place (don't know if that's what it should do or not). I plan to pull codes asaic (as soon as I can) and try to check the vacuum. I thought I would ask you fine folks here first as I know you are all awesome. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 08:21 PM
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codes would be very beneficial. is the light on?
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 08:25 PM
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no lights, no warnings, nothing. also seems to only do it when car is rolling to a stop. When car is stopped, foot off brake all is well idle is fine.
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 08:40 PM
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Only because it's not stock, the shop that tuned it, can do so that the car doesn't see issues because parameters have been played with. I hope that's not the case.

Id scan it anyway see what you get,
check vacuum hose, intake gaskets, inlet piping and clamps.
let me know if you get codes......
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 09:11 PM
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Will do. It was tuned by MTI about 1000 miles away. I will scan it tomorrow and see if it has codes. Would the inlet piping make that much of an impact?
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 09:17 PM
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well between the MAF and intake is important. I am more of an N/A guy. do you have hp tuners by any chance?
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 11:07 PM
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This sounds like a messed up tune to me. Did you bring the car to a different altitude?
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SEVINN
This sounds like a messed up tune to me. Did you bring the car to a different altitude?
i kinda wanted to think that too. He just got it so who knows. I just went through some half fast tuning in my build, don't wanna talk too soon but new guy see's all kinds of issues. currently on it now.
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rpmextra
i kinda wanted to think that too. He just got it so who knows. I just went through some half fast tuning in my build, don't wanna talk too soon but new guy see's all kinds of issues. currently on it now.
I hate that you can't pay someone and trust that they'll do good work. Part of the reason that I'm learning to do it myself just so that if I mess it up I know who's fault it is
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Old Aug 1, 2015 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SEVINN
I hate that you can't pay someone and trust that they'll do good work. Part of the reason that I'm learning to do it myself just so that if I mess it up I know who's fault it is
Well i think there are some really good guys out there. But I'm getting a bit of a vibe that some of the best (like my guy) don't tune for others (or rarely) and keep their secrets just that. Being a technician myself, once this new guy I found started naming all the issues that the tune had, along with assuming I had certain symptoms (which I most certainly did) without ever telling him about them, I was in awe as everything made total sense. This gentleman doesn't even want credit nor even to tell people he did it, he just saw how disappointed I was and offered help. His car speaks for itself, and we have very similar set-ups. Do it right or do it twice. Offered to tune, and if we don't achieve a certain goal we have for the car, the tune is free. That's how sure he is.....I have nothing to loose, yet like i had mentioned, I don't want to talk too soon, but I like my odds

As for the OP, I understand that shop is 1000 miles away. If you (or a friend) had software like HP tuners, you could record some data while duplicating the conditions of your issue, you could then send them (or anyone) the data log file, help figure out what is going on exactly.
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 06:41 AM
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Bank that you have an intake air leak, and it was one of the O rings between the S/C base and the heads that rolled/came loose and did not seat correctly when they slide the S/C back in to place under the cowling (why the AFR numbers are all over the map).


104, and go a few more photo to see how the S/C has to be held up off the heads until you get it into position under the cowling to drop into place so the O rings stay seated in place instead. Also note that you have to lube with silicone, since if you use something like WD-40 or such, the petroleum product will eat away the O ring seals in short order instead.
http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manu...ntercooled.pdf

So on that note, you may be able to use starting fluid test for an air leak test, but looks like your are going to end up pulling the hat to replace the O rings and reinstall it.

Last edited by Dano523; Aug 3, 2015 at 06:49 AM.
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 08:58 PM
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Thanks for the info guys, I had to bleed the clutch Sunday (somehow got air into the system and it would not go into 1st or Rev) and did not get time to pull codes. Will got those and try the starting fluid test and get back with yall when I do. How hard is it to pull intake and replace gaskets, much different than stock
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Hunter
Thanks for the info guys, I had to bleed the clutch Sunday (somehow got air into the system and it would not go into 1st or Rev) and did not get time to pull codes. Will got those and try the starting fluid test and get back with yall when I do. How hard is it to pull intake and replace gaskets, much different than stock
Similar except the belt and maybe a couple little things. I'm sure if you go on mags website you might be able to download the install pdf and just go backwards lol
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