Couple quick ?'s
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 274
Likes: 9
Couple quick ?'s
So I just bought a 2010 Vette with 3k miles on it. Although it has super low miles, I don't know how the previous owner took care of it so I want to be on the safe side and change all the fluids just to have a fresh start and know everything is perfect.
I am planning on changing manual transmission fluid, rear diff fluid, coolant and oil. Is there anything special with these cars I need to know about any of these things?
Manual and Diff fluid: drain and fill until fluid comes out of fill plug.
Oil: obvious
Coolant: Drain, cycle through some distilled water a few times until clear water comes out, refill with proper mixture and bleed the system.
I have done maintenance on all my cars for years and it's all been straight forward, so I just wanted to make sure there are no tricks or special things I need to know when doing these things.
Thanks in advance guys!
I am planning on changing manual transmission fluid, rear diff fluid, coolant and oil. Is there anything special with these cars I need to know about any of these things?
Manual and Diff fluid: drain and fill until fluid comes out of fill plug.
Oil: obvious
Coolant: Drain, cycle through some distilled water a few times until clear water comes out, refill with proper mixture and bleed the system.
I have done maintenance on all my cars for years and it's all been straight forward, so I just wanted to make sure there are no tricks or special things I need to know when doing these things.
Thanks in advance guys!
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
I'm sure everything you're changing is just fine..
But, yes, all that is right.. very straight forward
Buy a small pump for the transmission/diff oil. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu.../dp/B000BQW5LK
But, yes, all that is right.. very straight forward
Buy a small pump for the transmission/diff oil. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu.../dp/B000BQW5LK
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 274
Likes: 9
I'm sure everything you're changing is just fine..
But, yes, all that is right.. very straight forward
Buy a small pump for the transmission/diff oil. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu.../dp/B000BQW5LK
But, yes, all that is right.. very straight forward
Buy a small pump for the transmission/diff oil. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu.../dp/B000BQW5LK
Last edited by Tennis_pr0; Aug 14, 2015 at 09:47 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,106
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
At only 3000 miles, I might consider changing the oil and filter, but I'd certainly leave the rest of that alone, unless you find evidence that the previous owner put all those miles on at the racetrack. If the paint is perfect, that car was a garage queen. Prematurely changing factory fluids at that low mileage has a greater opportunity for problems than just driving it the way it is.
Just my opinion and I didn't even charge you for it.
Just my opinion and I didn't even charge you for it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
At only 3000 miles, I might consider changing the oil and filter, but I'd certainly leave the rest of that alone, unless you find evidence that the previous owner put all those miles on at the racetrack. If the paint is perfect, that car was a garage queen. Prematurely changing factory fluids at that low mileage has a greater opportunity for problems than just driving it the way it is.
Just my opinion and I didn't even charge you for it.
Just my opinion and I didn't even charge you for it.
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Venice Florida
So I just bought a 2010 Vette with 3k miles on it. Although it has super low miles, I don't know how the previous owner took care of it so I want to be on the safe side and change all the fluids just to have a fresh start and know everything is perfect.
I am planning on changing manual transmission fluid, rear diff fluid, coolant and oil. Is there anything special with these cars I need to know about any of these things?
Manual and Diff fluid: drain and fill until fluid comes out of fill plug.
Oil: obvious
Coolant: Drain, cycle through some distilled water a few times until clear water comes out, refill with proper mixture and bleed the system.
I have done maintenance on all my cars for years and it's all been straight forward, so I just wanted to make sure there are no tricks or special things I need to know when doing these things.
Thanks in advance guys!
I am planning on changing manual transmission fluid, rear diff fluid, coolant and oil. Is there anything special with these cars I need to know about any of these things?
Manual and Diff fluid: drain and fill until fluid comes out of fill plug.
Oil: obvious
Coolant: Drain, cycle through some distilled water a few times until clear water comes out, refill with proper mixture and bleed the system.
I have done maintenance on all my cars for years and it's all been straight forward, so I just wanted to make sure there are no tricks or special things I need to know when doing these things.
Thanks in advance guys!
Won't be doing radiator coolant but will get all the others.
Don't forget Brake Fluid while your at it. DOT 4 if you will be doing any track events.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,106
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
The OP states that he wants to "know everything is perfect", but you can't get more perfect than the factory fill, since there was not one drop of any used fluid in the car at that time.
The part I don't understand is that a person so **** to change the dif fluid (not even listed in the manual) on an extremely low mile car, doesn't consider changing the fuel, the brake fluid, the PS fluid, and especially the clutch fluid. Why go for the coolant when the clutch fluid needs changed far more often?
I also wonder if he'll buy new tires, since they are also 5+ years old.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 274
Likes: 9
Reason I want to change all the fluids is I just don't know what's in there. There could have been a leak at some point. Or maybe the owner before me changed something and didn't fill correctly. It's just a few easy things to do so I know everything is fresh and filled properly.
As far as clutch/brake fluid, I looked at the fluid and it looks fine so I'm leaving that alone. The trans and diff fluid I can't check or see so that's why I'm changing that. The oil i always change when I get a carm and the coolant I saw a few little glittery particles in there so my OCD won't be satisfied unless I change it. I'm just OCD and like to know that everything id done by my and done correctly. Plus I enjoy doing it.
As far as clutch/brake fluid, I looked at the fluid and it looks fine so I'm leaving that alone. The trans and diff fluid I can't check or see so that's why I'm changing that. The oil i always change when I get a carm and the coolant I saw a few little glittery particles in there so my OCD won't be satisfied unless I change it. I'm just OCD and like to know that everything id done by my and done correctly. Plus I enjoy doing it.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,525
Likes: 495
From: Southern California
IIRC the reason for the 5 year number, is the expected heating and cooling cycles that would occur in that time period. The expectation that the average car is being driven nearly 18K annually by the majority of male drivers, means that the conservative change time would be in the vicinity of 90K miles. I have AC Delco and Prestone Dex-cool containers that each state 5 year/150,000 mile protection. There are no expiration dates or use by dates, which is an assurance that it doesn't go bad in the container, nor would it go bad while being inside a closed cooling system without being used.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 274
Likes: 9
I'd suggest caution and advise replacing the coolant on the recommended five year cycle. I'm not a chemical engineer but coolant that is subject to even occasional heat cycles and stored in an unsealed container (the engine's cooling system) made of radically dissimilar metals and plastics is not the same as new, uncycled coolant stored in a factory sealed container. The only time I missed a coolant replacement cycle on a car the radiator and heater core developed leaks. Pay the money, change the coolant and rest easy. JMO.
I had a 2012 Camaro ZL1 before my mustang and the car only had 10k miles on it. I changed the coolant on that (the coolant that came out looked fine) but i found after I changed it the car ran a little cooler and it just gave me peace of mind. I also changed the diff and trans fluid on it and I can tell you with just 10k miles, those fluids were pretty dirty and there was a lot of metal the diff plug picked up. I was happy to get all that stuff out and put fresh stuff in.
I generally do follow close to what the manufacturer suggests, but anytime I buy a used car I like to change everything and start my maintenance intervals from there.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,525
Likes: 495
From: Southern California
As far as how long to wait to change it I don't have it down to an exact science, but I usually change all my fluids every few years just to keep everything healthy. My car is 6 years old and yes only has 3k miles on it, but just the fact that all the fluids are six years old and I'm the new owner of the car now, I would just feel more comfortable changing them.
I had a 2012 Camaro ZL1 before my mustang and the car only had 10k miles on it. I changed the coolant on that (the coolant that came out looked fine) but i found after I changed it the car ran a little cooler and it just gave me peace of mind. I also changed the diff and trans fluid on it and I can tell you with just 10k miles, those fluids were pretty dirty and there was a lot of metal the diff plug picked up. I was happy to get all that stuff out and put fresh stuff in.
I generally do follow close to what the manufacturer suggests, but anytime I buy a used car I like to change everything and start my maintenance intervals from there.
I had a 2012 Camaro ZL1 before my mustang and the car only had 10k miles on it. I changed the coolant on that (the coolant that came out looked fine) but i found after I changed it the car ran a little cooler and it just gave me peace of mind. I also changed the diff and trans fluid on it and I can tell you with just 10k miles, those fluids were pretty dirty and there was a lot of metal the diff plug picked up. I was happy to get all that stuff out and put fresh stuff in.
I generally do follow close to what the manufacturer suggests, but anytime I buy a used car I like to change everything and start my maintenance intervals from there.
I'm not sure about your particular Corvette but many limited slip differentials and some transmissions require a friction modifier additive for proper operation plus many cooling systems need to be burped for proper operation. If you have a dry sump motor changing the oil requires additional knowledge as well. Most "Quickie Lubes" are clueless about these issues when it comes to Corvettes.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 274
Likes: 9
I'd endorse that approach, the worst that can happen is that you spend a few bucks that you didn't have to spend. I'm sure it will cost a bit more but I'd suggest that you go to a Corvette specialist or a Corvette savvy dealer because these cars are not your average Impala.
I'm not sure about your particular Corvette but many limited slip differentials and some transmissions require a friction modifier additive for proper operation plus many cooling systems need to be burped for proper operation. If you have a dry sump motor changing the oil requires additional knowledge as well. Most "Quickie Lubes" are clueless about these issues when it comes to Corvettes.
I'm not sure about your particular Corvette but many limited slip differentials and some transmissions require a friction modifier additive for proper operation plus many cooling systems need to be burped for proper operation. If you have a dry sump motor changing the oil requires additional knowledge as well. Most "Quickie Lubes" are clueless about these issues when it comes to Corvettes.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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Likes: 3,629
At 3K, I would leave the diff and trans fluids alone. Both have not collected enough dust from the clutch packs on the diff/ synco-shifter fork's to warrant changing these fluids out.
Engine oil, yes for piece of mind if anything else.
Clutch and brake fluids, yes, since with the amount of time that has passed, these fluids have pulled moisture into them, and they become less effective. The brakes you can power flush, while the clutch fluid use the ranger method instead.
Radiator fluid, would leave it alone, as well as the power steering fluid too (mileage too low to justify the need to change such on a garage queen).
Truth be told, with the low mileage and the year of the car, would spend more time under the car looking for Oil leaks from the car sitting without being driven much instead (seals/gaskets dried up from not being driven).
Engine oil, yes for piece of mind if anything else.
Clutch and brake fluids, yes, since with the amount of time that has passed, these fluids have pulled moisture into them, and they become less effective. The brakes you can power flush, while the clutch fluid use the ranger method instead.
Radiator fluid, would leave it alone, as well as the power steering fluid too (mileage too low to justify the need to change such on a garage queen).
Truth be told, with the low mileage and the year of the car, would spend more time under the car looking for Oil leaks from the car sitting without being driven much instead (seals/gaskets dried up from not being driven).
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,106
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
At 3K, I would leave the diff and trans fluids alone. Both have not collected enough dust from the clutch packs on the diff/ synco-shifter fork's to warrant changing these fluids out.
Engine oil, yes for piece of mind if anything else.
Clutch and brake fluids, yes, since with the amount of time that has passed, these fluids have pulled moisture into them, and they become less effective. The brakes you can power flush, while the clutch fluid use the ranger method instead.
Radiator fluid, would leave it alone, as well as the power steering fluid too (mileage too low to justify the need to change such on a garage queen).
Truth be told, with the low mileage and the year of the car, would spend more time under the car looking for Oil leaks from the car sitting without being driven much instead (seals/gaskets dried up from not being driven).
Engine oil, yes for piece of mind if anything else.
Clutch and brake fluids, yes, since with the amount of time that has passed, these fluids have pulled moisture into them, and they become less effective. The brakes you can power flush, while the clutch fluid use the ranger method instead.
Radiator fluid, would leave it alone, as well as the power steering fluid too (mileage too low to justify the need to change such on a garage queen).
Truth be told, with the low mileage and the year of the car, would spend more time under the car looking for Oil leaks from the car sitting without being driven much instead (seals/gaskets dried up from not being driven).
This is a case of just letting the OP do whatever he wants, since he rejects any opposing opinions.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,036
Likes: 9,798
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
IIRC the reason for the 5 year number, is the expected heating and cooling cycles that would occur in that time period. The expectation that the average car is being driven nearly 18K annually by the majority of male drivers, means that the conservative change time would be in the vicinity of 90K miles. I have AC Delco and Prestone Dex-cool containers that each state 5 year/150,000 mile protection. There are no expiration dates or use by dates, which is an assurance that it doesn't go bad in the container, nor would it go bad while being inside a closed cooling system without being used.
The OP states that he wants to "know everything is perfect", but you can't get more perfect than the factory fill, since there was not one drop of any used fluid in the car at that time.
The part I don't understand is that a person so **** to change the dif fluid (not even listed in the manual) on an extremely low mile car, doesn't consider changing the fuel, the brake fluid, the PS fluid, and especially the clutch fluid. Why go for the coolant when the clutch fluid needs changed far more often?
I also wonder if he'll buy new tires, since they are also 5+ years old.
The OP states that he wants to "know everything is perfect", but you can't get more perfect than the factory fill, since there was not one drop of any used fluid in the car at that time.
The part I don't understand is that a person so **** to change the dif fluid (not even listed in the manual) on an extremely low mile car, doesn't consider changing the fuel, the brake fluid, the PS fluid, and especially the clutch fluid. Why go for the coolant when the clutch fluid needs changed far more often?
I also wonder if he'll buy new tires, since they are also 5+ years old.
Bill
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 442
From: Boca Raton Florida
Couple quick ?'s
What behoves me is this. You spent a lot of money for the vette, used or new, and you are **** about the care of it which is a good thing, why wont you invest few hundred on a proper shop manual for it? It has all the correct procedures, torque values, proper lubricants. And in some vehicles like a GS with a differential oil cooler there are additional procedures when it comes to filling it. I would not flush the engine with a distilled water either as on refilling your ratio will be wrong due to the water remaining in the block unless you know the amount of fresh water that gets trapped in there. Buy a set of manuals. It will be your friend now and in the future.