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well everything is out!! what a pain but not to bad. biggest problem was the bell housing bolt that holds the wiring harness. Had a lot of choice words for the engineers not making this easier to work on!! I will be starting on the torque tube and replacing the couplers.
what is the torque on the couplers?
what is the torque for the bell housing?
sure hope I made the right choice with the clutch, the Mantic ER2.
Is the pressure plate still torqued to 50 lbs. pounds ?
well everything is out!! what a pain but not to bad. biggest problem was the bell housing bolt that holds the wiring harness. Had a lot of choice words for the engineers not making this easier to work on!! I will be starting on the torque tube and replacing the couplers.
what is the torque on the couplers?
what is the torque for the bell housing?
sure hope I made the right choice with the clutch, the Mantic ER2.
Is the pressure plate still torqued to 50 lbs. pounds ?
Thanks everyone.
I drop my engine a bit. Makes the top bolts easier for sure.
The pressure plate should be 52ft. And there is a sequence that should be taken. You don't just torque and go. You need to do it in steps like 12-35-52 and in the proper order
Bellhousing bolts are 37ft
Someone posted my dyi thread earlier. Torque values are there I believe. Also did you remove the flywheel. If so you need to use new oem bolts or equivalent on the flywheel. They are a 1 time use bolt.
I have new flywheel bolts have stock, but went with arp, the small factory flywheel bolts are small head, for a reason, but don't feel comfortable with them. Also went with arp for the pressure plate as well. do you know what the couplers torque are?
I have new flywheel bolts have stock, but went with arp, the small factory flywheel bolts are small head, for a reason, but don't feel comfortable with them. Also went with arp for the pressure plate as well. do you know what the couplers torque are?
Make sure you use loctite then. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the oem bolts btw.
For the coupler torque. I'm sorry I don't follow what couplers you're talking about? I'm probably gonna slap myself when you enlighten me but maybe we're not calling something the same name.
Make sure there's room for the arp heads. Mine had marks on them where the Mantic 9000 was hitting them. Current clutch uses GM bolts and specifically said not to use arp
I think with a single disc you'll be fine, just a heads up
I've got a torque sheet around here somewhere. I red loctite those too. Think I went with 66ft lbs
I was hoping someone would help me out lol. I'm no longer home so don't have access to the GM repair manuals. There was a nice thread on the torque rebuild maybe they are in there as well?
I was hoping someone would help me out lol. I'm no longer home so don't have access to the GM repair manuals. There was a nice thread on the torque rebuild maybe they are in there as well?
Highlights from the 2006 service manual, pages 4-55 and 4-56:
"Apply threadlock GM P/N 12345382 (Canadian P/N 10953489), or equivalent, to the threads of the coupling bolts."
"If the coupling orientation mark has been lost during the cleaning or disassembly process, the coupling MUST be installed with the directional arrow pointed toward the flange to which it mounts."
"Tighten the coupling bolts - manual transmission to 90 Nm (66 lb ft)."
"Install a NEW slinger washer onto the input shaft. A properly installed slinger washer will have a gap of 1.5-2.5mm (0.050-0.098 in) between the washer and the bearing face."
The torque spec is the same for all three couplers. [It's lower (52 lb ft) for automatic cars].
well we are up and running Sunday evening, but took Monday off to double check everything and get a alignment. Biggest problem was
getting the slave and master lines connected and putting in the clip. absolutely no room. very difficult to do one handed. Love the way
the clutch feels real smooth. just taken it easy for a while 500-1000 miles.
well we are up and running Sunday evening, but took Monday off to double check everything and get a alignment. Biggest problem was
getting the slave and master lines connected and putting in the clip. absolutely no room. very difficult to do one handed. Love the way
the clutch feels real smooth. just taken it easy for a while 500-1000 miles.
You are supposed to put the clip in before snapping the pieces together
That's why I just pull the fender off.. easy access for those of us without a lift
Try to get as much stop and go traffic as you can Miles alone won't do a thing
I know we discussed this before, but that is the way I find the fastest. I used a pry bar up against the master line from the hood latch area and hold the line, then push the slave side in from the top in all the way, then put the clip in with a pair or needle nose vise grips. then try to pull apart to good measure. It takes me all but 2-3min and much prefer that then taking the fender off. but whatever works for you.
I get a lot of stop and go traffic ,my car is a daily driver so this will not be a problem. just did not want to remove front fender, as you know a lot to remove and the reinstall and was doing this myself. they could have had the line from the master a little longer so it would not be under the brake power booster, but its done and I will remember and save this thread with the trick on how to attach the line.
I get a lot of stop and go traffic ,my car is a daily driver so this will not be a problem. just did not want to remove front fender, as you know a lot to remove and the reinstall and was doing this myself. they could have had the line from the master a little longer so it would not be under the brake power booster, but its done and I will remember and save this thread with the trick on how to attach the line.