Ok so it shouldn't be rocket sience, But i think im not doing it right.
What is the correct pre dertermined RPM 5000?? Im getting a lots of wheels spins too, im in competition mode, straight steering, stopped cutch pedal to the floor, first gear, than dump the clutch. What is wrong??

 

To add, keep the gas pedal floored on the launch!!!!!


Also to point out, the launch control on the vet is not an active system, but more of just a pre-programmed system instead. So even with it, you are still going to get a degree of tire spin on the launch.

So unlike the active launch control system on say a GT-R that be harder to out due without it for a cleaner launch, the launch control on the C6 is more for guys that don't have a clue on how to launch the car instead.

Bluntly put, if you know how to launch a C6 cleanly so you don't end up with any tire slip on the launch, you will have faster 60 time by not using the launch control . So again, the launch control on the C6 is just so you can get consistent launches if you don't know what you are doing, but not the fastest of launches instead.

 

Do i need to hold the brakes when stopped? Because from the rpm you told me it deff not activating!!

 

You got a third leg to hold the clutch in, the brake down at the same time you have the gas pedal stomped to the floor we don't know about?


Two TC button pushes should put the car into comp mode and the DIC will read comp mode.

But lets back this up,
One TC button push will turn the TC off.
Two TC button pushes puts the car into comp mode.
Holding the button down for 5 seconds, turn everything off instead.
Holding the TC button again, will kick all the nanies back on.

So first start with making sure that car is in comp mode, and the DIC reads comp mode.

From here at a dead stop, clutch in, first gear, foot on the brake to hold the car stopped, move your right foot off the brake pedal and stomp the gas pedal all the way down quickly. At this point, the RPMs should climb and hold at 3500rpm.
Note, rev limiter will not allow the car to over rev past redline, so if you are not stopped/did not push the gas pedal fast enough all the way down, and RPMs don't stop at 3500, not going to hurt the car.

At this point with the gas pedal held all the way down, revs holding at 3500roms, you are ready to launch,

and again, do not lift the clutch pedal up slowly, just side step off the pedal/dump the clutch and let it fly up on it's own as you continue to hold the gas pedal all the way down until it time to shift to second gear just before red line.

If you lift off the gas pedal, or push the clutch pedal down at all (off the upper pedal switch used for the cruse control disengagement as well), the car will kick out of launch mode!!!

To add, if you have a tick type clutch master cylinder in the car, will need to install at least a C5 clutch pedal assist spring to the clutch pedal. The launch control used both the bottom and top clutch pedal switches, and without the assist return spring in play, the pedal will tag, then dance off the top clutch switch as you let the pedal go, leading the car to believe that you are pushing the clutch pedal down to disengage the launch control system.

As for after you do it a few time, learn to forget all about it just as fast.
The launch control system has way too much tire spin still, and you can learn how to launch the car a lot harder without ending up with the tire spin to start with instead.

Also to note, the system relies on the normal slip/slower lock up of the OEM clutch to save the drive line, and if you have an after market clutch/have drilled out the clutch line restrictions and the clutch is going to lock up a lot faster/harder, going to end up with a blown differential instead.

 

Once I made it work properly I immediately dismissed it. I drag raced front wheel drive cars since I could drive...my mother could launch better than this computer can after a 2 minute class. It's not a magic bullet like it is on an Italian car. It's god awful I laughed so hard the first time it worked...practice launching and you can beat it non stop. Especially with run flats...these cars don't lurch off the line or violently launch like a 700hp c4 would give it a **** load of gas...let the clutch out quick and deliberate but not side stepped and modulate the gas....nuff said.

 

I've been drag racing for 15 years i know how to launch. i was just curious to try it. Im sure it sucks, but it **** me off that i cant make it engaged! !

 

I was sure mine wasn't working correct but my Dealership insisted that it worked fine.
So first of all, you need to trust the Launch Control System.
It sounds like you are doing everything right except for holding the throttle to the floor. You ask what rpm to launch. You have no choice.
If you don't hold the throttle to the floor, Launch Control never activates and if you lift the throttle at any time, Launch Control deactivates and you own it. The launch is all yours. No Help from Launch Control.
I have a 2012 Grand Sport. After staging, press the throttle all the way down, pedal to the metal. The Tach. will fly to red line then come back down and settle around 45-4700 rpm. It will sound different than the rev limiter. You need to have the ***** to stick with it. It will not blow up. Do not slide your foot off the clutch but let it out briskly. Not good to power shift these tranny's. So after Launch, drive like you always would. Note, Clutches and drive shafts are not as strong as we would like them to be.
FYI: I do not use Launch Control anymore. Tried it a couple of times and my best runs have been with all the Nanny's on. Yep, that is true.
It just don't figure. I launch at 4000 rpm with Drag Radials. 60"= 1.8, best ET to date is 12.3. I feel 11.9 is within reach with cold air.
Good luck.

 

Thanks now that's what mine does goes to rev limiter than goes back to 4500 -4700 rpm so it was the launch control i was using!! Jeez it worth less I could launch much faster than that! !!

 

You mentioned you have been Drag Racing for 15 years.
I have been Drag Racing for over 50 years. Set many records in the 60's. But it took me a year to learn this Grand Sport. It is not like anything I has ever raced.
The first time out I couldn't break 13.5. Every time out I get better.
There is very little weight transfer with the Corvette. It is easy to blow the tires away. Try shifting at peak Torque RPM, not red line.
Just expect a new learning curve.
I wish I had your cool air down here. It is not uncommon to start qualifying at over 100 degrees. We only have 91 octane fuel in California and it may have Ethanol in it. It is a challenge down here.
Good luck, have fun.

 

Ok, Bringing back an old thread. I will be taking my GS to the track this weekend and need some advice. Never used launch control before, so i'll be attempting it for the first time.

Been on a drag strip once in my life last year, and only managed to run mid 13's with this car. Its a stock 6MT GS with a halltech intake and NPP exhaust.

I was thinking of using the launch control, but does competition mode keep keep only some nannies on and some off?

Also, when shifting, what RPM do you guys shift at? DO you go into 4th gear at the end of the 1/4 mile or wring out 3rd till redline?

 

Don't use launch control!!!
Launch control will end up with the tires starting to spin, then the motor backs off to try to get them to stick again. hence ones the tire spin to break traction, your already fighting a lost cause.

So learn to hold the rpms at launch, and use clutch slip on the launch to get you moving without the tires breaking free, and once you have the clutch all the way out, then deeper into throttle. On the second gear shift, you will need to slip the clutch a touch as well to keep the tires sticking.

On a A6, you need to roll into the throttle once you come of the brake pedal at launch to keep the tires sticking..

 

Thank you for the advice. Do you shift at redline, or before?

 

If stock tune on M6, you want to shift about 5.9K when the motor will go flat on the stock tune.


If retuned so the motor is bouncing off the rev limiter pulling hard to redline instead, then shift at red line isntead.
Attachment 48339858
Note, on the dyno graphs, just look at the where the HP peaks either goes flat, or starts to drop down, and this will be your best shift points. Again, GM tunes the motors to cause them to go flat about 5.9k, so on a stock tune, it will be 5.9K that you want to be shifting. On a LS7, you can ring it to 7, but better off shifting at 6.3K on the stock tune isntead.


If A6, then let the trans do the shifting for you.

 

Yes, mine is manual. I was told that I should shift just before redline in my car (LS3) because then revs dropafter the ****, the car is in a higher power band for the next gear. Does that sound correct?

 

 

Again, stock tune dyno pull on a LS-3, and note that the HP is dipping past 5.9K, so running the motor past the point of where it no longer climbing in HP, is going to end up with slow strip times. So your shift points on a stock tuned LS3, is 5.9K.