lets talk brakes setup!
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
lets talk brakes setup!
Here is what im talking about, a real brakes upgrades, bring my GS OEM brakes system to its full potential! Im getting sick and tired of brakes squeal and crazy dust. Im looking at a nice street combo. So far, my choice is : Carbontech solid pads 1521 Front and rear, combine to Coleman 2 pieces cross drilled front and rear rotors, plus stainless brakes lines. I think this combo will be the best braking parts combinations as well as the lower dust level and noises. I know this wont be cheap, but in a long run if really not that bad and most likely shoud give me what im looking for. Anyone here with Z06/GS brakes setup mostly for street, could chime in, that would be great. Im not a hard core racer, but with a nearly 700whp GS i think that brakes upgrades aint a bad idea
#2
The brakes are only going to stop you as well as the tire grip.
Lets get this straight from the start, the Base C6 will just about out brake most cars on the road OEM. So with better brakes that stop the rotors faster,and the same tires still, this will only get you into the ABS system faster instead (stopping distance is still going to be the same).
Now if you are running a something like R6's that have way more grip than Dot tires, you may be able to tax the OEM bakes to the point that you might not be able to get into the ABS system, and require better gripping brakes instead.
The fact that you are thinking of running 1521's, which are a Street temp pads, and should not be used for road course events since that temp range is too hot for the pads, wasting your money on a two piece rotor that you are never going to get hot enough to justify them in the first place.
So here is the deal with GS pads, which are more aggressive then Base pads/are heat temp ranged for both street and auto cross events, Hence they offer more initial bite, and have better feed back as you are getting deeper into the pedal.
Bluntly, if you just want to pimp the ride, then go for what every you want. But if you are looking to stop faster, they you need to work that from the tires first, then back up the system instead.
Lets get this straight from the start, the Base C6 will just about out brake most cars on the road OEM. So with better brakes that stop the rotors faster,and the same tires still, this will only get you into the ABS system faster instead (stopping distance is still going to be the same).
Now if you are running a something like R6's that have way more grip than Dot tires, you may be able to tax the OEM bakes to the point that you might not be able to get into the ABS system, and require better gripping brakes instead.
The fact that you are thinking of running 1521's, which are a Street temp pads, and should not be used for road course events since that temp range is too hot for the pads, wasting your money on a two piece rotor that you are never going to get hot enough to justify them in the first place.
So here is the deal with GS pads, which are more aggressive then Base pads/are heat temp ranged for both street and auto cross events, Hence they offer more initial bite, and have better feed back as you are getting deeper into the pedal.
Bluntly, if you just want to pimp the ride, then go for what every you want. But if you are looking to stop faster, they you need to work that from the tires first, then back up the system instead.
#6
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
I realize that pad material is the cause of dust, but instead of fixing root cause, I fixed the symptoms with this.
http://www.armorall.com/products/wheel-protectant/
http://www.armorall.com/products/wheel-protectant/
#7
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I realize that pad material is the cause of dust, but instead of fixing root cause, I fixed the symptoms with this.
http://www.armorall.com/products/wheel-protectant/
http://www.armorall.com/products/wheel-protectant/
#9
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I don't believe anyone said or implied that.
But the bottom line is like Dano said, "the Base C6 will just about out brake most cars on the road OEM". The OEM GS brakes will stop from 60 about 3' quicker than base brakes. The 1521's will possibly cut a couple more feet off that distance.
At some point you'll have to take some responsibility about the street driving you do that requires better brakes to avoid accidents. My brakes aren't as good as yours, but I get more concerned about the guy behind, hitting me, than me hitting the guy in front.
But the bottom line is like Dano said, "the Base C6 will just about out brake most cars on the road OEM". The OEM GS brakes will stop from 60 about 3' quicker than base brakes. The 1521's will possibly cut a couple more feet off that distance.
At some point you'll have to take some responsibility about the street driving you do that requires better brakes to avoid accidents. My brakes aren't as good as yours, but I get more concerned about the guy behind, hitting me, than me hitting the guy in front.
#10
Yes, the OEM HD pads of the GS/Z51 option cars are heat ranged for both street and auto crossing.
The 1521 will give you the same initial bite and feed back as the HD pads with less dusting at DD temps, but are not heat ranged for auto crossing increased heat that the pads will be subject to there instead.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds2.asp
To sum it up, the GS and z51 option cars where set up for auto-crossing to begin with on a car that will also be street driven, and all the OEM parts on the car, including the brake pads and rotors that will be subject to higher temps at times, where designed around that.
As for auto crossing, verse high speed road course work, huge difference in the brake pad and rotor temps, and this is where you get into high temp pads, and even two piece rotors that will not have problems when the rotors are pretty much glowing now stop instead.
The downside, you set up a car with high speed road course brakes, and at DD type speeds, the pads and rotors are not going to come up to temps to the work correctly instead, and will take much longer to stop the car at the lower temps of both than a DD set up instead. Add in that the brakes are going to be noisy as well before they get up to the intended temps, and on a DD car, you just pretty much shot your self in the head by installing the race brake set up.
So for your DD pad and rotor temps, if you want to get away from dusting, and not loss the initial bite and feed back of the OEM HD pads, then just install the 1521"s. Or, Now that you have the R888's on the car with the stock pads, take the car up the 80MPH, hit the brakes pedal hard, and see if you can get into the ABS system with moderate brake pedal pressure (Brake pedal will vibrate when you get into the ABS system and will state such on the DIC).
Now this will answer your question of if the brake system has to be upgraded for more bite, Hence how hard do you need to get into the pedal before the ABS kicks in. Hence better bite brakes will just get you into the ABS system with less brake pedal pressure, and that is not always a good thing instead (less working range of the pedal and feed back of the pedal before just getting into the ABS system instead).
And again, it all comes back to the amount that the tires will bite before they skid under braking, then you how much brake pedal pressure is needed until you get into the ABS system, and at what temps will be the pads and rotors be run at so they are maintained in the that working temps.
The 1521 will give you the same initial bite and feed back as the HD pads with less dusting at DD temps, but are not heat ranged for auto crossing increased heat that the pads will be subject to there instead.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds2.asp
To sum it up, the GS and z51 option cars where set up for auto-crossing to begin with on a car that will also be street driven, and all the OEM parts on the car, including the brake pads and rotors that will be subject to higher temps at times, where designed around that.
As for auto crossing, verse high speed road course work, huge difference in the brake pad and rotor temps, and this is where you get into high temp pads, and even two piece rotors that will not have problems when the rotors are pretty much glowing now stop instead.
The downside, you set up a car with high speed road course brakes, and at DD type speeds, the pads and rotors are not going to come up to temps to the work correctly instead, and will take much longer to stop the car at the lower temps of both than a DD set up instead. Add in that the brakes are going to be noisy as well before they get up to the intended temps, and on a DD car, you just pretty much shot your self in the head by installing the race brake set up.
So for your DD pad and rotor temps, if you want to get away from dusting, and not loss the initial bite and feed back of the OEM HD pads, then just install the 1521"s. Or, Now that you have the R888's on the car with the stock pads, take the car up the 80MPH, hit the brakes pedal hard, and see if you can get into the ABS system with moderate brake pedal pressure (Brake pedal will vibrate when you get into the ABS system and will state such on the DIC).
Now this will answer your question of if the brake system has to be upgraded for more bite, Hence how hard do you need to get into the pedal before the ABS kicks in. Hence better bite brakes will just get you into the ABS system with less brake pedal pressure, and that is not always a good thing instead (less working range of the pedal and feed back of the pedal before just getting into the ABS system instead).
And again, it all comes back to the amount that the tires will bite before they skid under braking, then you how much brake pedal pressure is needed until you get into the ABS system, and at what temps will be the pads and rotors be run at so they are maintained in the that working temps.
#11
Tolero Apto Victum