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Harmonic balancer bolt came unscrewed!!

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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 01:45 PM
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Default Harmonic balancer bolt came unscrewed!!

So, driving on the back roads yesterday with a brand new harmonic balancer that was installed 4 days ago. Lost my alternator and power steering, so I figured the belt was slipping. Turned around to try and make it home, and starting hearing and feeling a grinding noise! Pulled to the shoulder and popped the hood and could clearly see that the bolt for the harmonic balancer had come unscrewed and was grinding on the rack and pinion... Awesome. Bring out the flat bed. Any words of advice to pass along to the shop so this doesn't happen again? I told them they needed to use locktite on it. Does this happen with the summit racing or ATI balancers?
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 02:03 PM
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After problems with the early '05s, GM added a diamond dust coated washer for the bolt. A new one is required any time the bolt is loosened. You might check this with the mechanic that replaced the balancer.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cclive
After problems with the early '05s, GM added a diamond dust coated washer for the bolt. A new one is required any time the bolt is loosened. You might check this with the mechanic that replaced the balancer.

Thank you! I'll make sure they replace it this time. They warranty their work, so anything they do now should be at no charge. I also told them they needed to check for any other damage to the belts and such..
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 02:13 PM
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They also have to be torqued down very tight, I think factory spec is well over 200 lb-ft. If not torqued to spec they can back out. Why GM didn't just use a keyway like on the millions of small blocks before the LS series I'll never know. Make sure there is no damage to the crank snout. If there is, this could turn into a major job real quick. You should be alright though since you caught it early.

Last edited by Paratrooper307; Dec 6, 2015 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Paratrooper307
They also have to be torqued down very tight, I think factory spec is well over 200 lb-ft. If not torqued to spec they can back out. Why GM didn't just use a keyway like on the millions of small blocks before the LS series I'll never know. Make sure there is no damage to the crank snout. If there is, this could turn into a major job real quick. You should be alright though since you caught it early.
I'm sure they didn't torque it enough. I'm new to the area, and there isn't a corvette shop close by. This place was recommended and had great reviews. Try say they've done this job before, but I'm starting to wonder.. I'll have them inspect the crank snout to make sure. I shut her down immediately and had it towed, so it should be fine. I'll let you guys know next week. I'm off to England while she gets fixed
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 12:27 AM
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Diamond washer, new factory OEM bolt torqued to spec, and should not have a problem with it.

Best guess, they did not get a new diamond washer and new bolt, and tried to use the old ones instead. The problem with this, the OEM bolt and washer are a one time stretch to torque use only.
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 01:59 AM
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Had the same thing happen on my C5 after I put a new damper on. I had he bolt tight and everything. I honestly think I must of not had the damper fully seated. After driving with the pressure of the bolt I think the damper finally seated doing so allowed the bolt to not be as tight since the damper moved inward. After that happened I made a specaisl tool and was able to tighten the bolt again and after that it never came loose again. That's what I'm betting happened. Had the same thing happen on my trans am but checked the bolt on it after a few hundred miles and noticed the bolt needed tightened a bit more. Sometimes it's hard to get them fully seated because they go on so hard.
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 02:35 AM
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What year car and what engine.

I have a heads and cam ls3 with aftermarket damper and ARP bolt and it came loose as well took out the bolt applied enough red thread lock torqued to 240 lbs. done.

Mechanic has to lock motor from turning to get the torque spec rite with a torque wrench not the impact gun.
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ABiaggi
I'm sure they didn't torque it enough. I'm new to the area, and there isn't a corvette shop close by. This place was recommended and had great reviews. Try say they've done this job before, but I'm starting to wonder.. I'll have them inspect the crank snout to make sure. I shut her down immediately and had it towed, so it should be fine. I'll let you guys know next week. I'm off to England while she gets fixed
Hey ABiaggi,I am in Camarillo also. There is a very good Corvette shop over in Oxnard called A + A Corvette. They put a HB on my 2011 and did a great job. Give them a try next time you need some work done.
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 05:27 AM
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It's a 2005 c6 base, so the 6.0.
Good stuff, thanks guys. I'm going to talk to them today, and this time I'll make sure they use a new bolt and diamond washer. And torque it correctly...
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by c6don
Hey ABiaggi,I am in Camarillo also. There is a very good Corvette shop over in Oxnard called A + A Corvette. They put a HB on my 2011 and did a great job. Give them a try next time you need some work done.
Hey c6don,

I talked to A&A a few weeks ago and they said they really only do super chargers and things like that. I guess I should have called them again and asked about the harmonic balancer specifically. If it goes bad again I'll definitely call them. We should go cruise some time!
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 03:33 PM
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aftermarket damper and ARP bolt and it came loose as well took out the bolt applied enough red thread lock torqued to 240 lbs. done.

Mechanic has to lock motor from turning to get the torque spec rite with a torque wrench not the impact gun.[/QUOTE]


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...2503/overview/
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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The factory bolt isn't supposed to be tightened to a torque spec. You tighten it to a relatively low spec (something like 60 ft lbs) then turn it an additional 140* if memory serves

The last 10-20* of that is an absolute bastard to do. If the shop just hit it with an impact wrench and thought that would do it.. they were obviously mistaken.

New bolt, properly installed, should stay put no problem.

ARP makes a nice crank bolt too. It is torqued to 235 ft*lbs if I remember correctly (w all friction surfaces coated with ARP lube).

You'll need a big torque wrench or pipe for either.

Last edited by schpenxel; Dec 7, 2015 at 03:46 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
The factory bolt isn't supposed to be tightened to a torque spec. You tighten it to a relatively low spec (something like 60 ft lbs) then turn it an additional 140* if memory serves

The last 10-20* of that is an absolute bastard to do. If the shop just hit it with an impact wrench and thought that would do it.. they were obviously mistaken.

New bolt, properly installed, should stay put no problem.

ARP makes a nice crank bolt too. It is torqued to 235 ft*lbs if I remember correctly (w all friction surfaces coated with ARP lube).

You'll need a big torque wrench or pipe for either.



This is correct. There is not a final torque setting. Torque to a set number (I cannot recall it either) and then turn turn bolt and additional number of degrees. If the just added Loctite and pulled it tight, they were not even close. It is a bitch to get the bolt turned to the proper degree.
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 06:08 PM
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GM BOLT, torque to yeild


Crank Bal Bolt - Instal Pass-OLD bolt 330 N·m 240 lb ft Case Extension to Case Bolt (4WD Shipping) 11.2-22.6 N·m 8.3-16.7 lb ft
Crank Bal Bolt - 1st Pass -NEW Bolt for 1st&final pass 50 N·m 37 lb ft Converter Cvr Bolt 10 N·m 89 lb in
Crank Bal Bolt - Final Pass 140 degrees Converter hsng to Case Screw 65.0-75.0 N·m 48-55 lb ft
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 02:46 PM
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I'm going to forward this to the shop so they understand how to do it. Thanks guys, you're all a huge help. Learning all sorts of stuff on these forums!!
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 10:35 PM
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Update!!

So, now I'm pissed. The shop said they did everything that we previously discussed in this thread, and after driving it 20 miles it's already starting to make a nasty noise. I can tell it's from the balancer. Time to get a refund and take it to a corvette specialist, which I should've done in the first place. Live and learn I guess...
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 11:00 PM
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If this keeps happening... I'd also take it to another shop and ask what the crank snout looks like. Normally only boosted applications that aren't pinned will spin a crank pulley but I have seen shops mess up snouts before from install error.

OP you asked about aftermarket balancers... is there one on the car? I have had one on a customer's car that constantly caused balancer bolts to back out (believe it was a Powerbond). We swapped it back out for a factory balancer and no more problems.
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tuboy19
If this keeps happening... I'd also take it to another shop and ask what the crank snout looks like. Normally only boosted applications that aren't pinned will spin a crank pulley but I have seen shops mess up snouts before from install error.

OP you asked about aftermarket balancers... is there one on the car? I have had one on a customer's car that constantly caused balancer bolts to back out (believe it was a Powerbond). We swapped it back out for a factory balancer and no more problems.
It has a factory balancer in it. I'm going to take it to A&A Corvette down here in SoCal this week, and I'll have them check the snout. It's been so frustrating. I just want to drive her!!

Last edited by BadC6; Dec 12, 2015 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 11:30 PM
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Are they putting in a new bolt every time? It is a torque to yield bolt and can only be tightened one time.
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