hello, i have an 08z with 8k miles. heres my issue. when rolling in a gear and i got WOT i have no clutch slip. Then when i roll from 2nd and shift around 6500 into 3rd i get a slight slip in 3rd gear like the clutch is hanging up. it will slip around 5k till about 5500 and then seems up grab. i dont think the clutch is fully engaging. also i just did the ranger method for fluid and had the shop bleed my clutch bc i felt weird to them.also my fluid turns dark in less than 150 miles. any insight? im thinking on getting the tick master to resolve this issue?
thanks in advance, cj

 

There are 2 or 3 restrictions throughout hydraulic system for the clutch that restrict how fast fluid can move. The purpose is to prevent you from just dropping the clutch all at once and it hurting something drivetrain wise. The bad part is it can allow the clutch to not immediately 100% engage during quick clutch movements. The theory is Chevy would rather you be able to destroy a clutch while under warranty than something more expensive.. so it's designed that way accordingly.

It sounds like it's not engaging fast enough IMO. If it weren't disengaging you wouldn't be able to get it into the next gear.

Hopefully Dano replies. He knows more about where the restrictions are than me and whether a Tick master will help or not.

 

thanks for the response. i definitely not dropping the clutch. hopefully more light can be shed on this. you re right engaging is the right term

 

My point was it slows engagement, which could be why it's slipping for you right after you change gears but not when you roll into it

 

gotcha. so i cant shift as fast as i want to. that kinda sucks

 

Hopefully some others can chime in with more info. I've never had a problem on mine but I'm also running a twin disc so it probably matters less

 

Bump. Any other input?!

 

Very close, so it 3 orifice restrictors in the fluid line, and since the clutch is not under any warranty, you get to pay for it when it burns up, isntead of GM paying for a drive line warranty repair isntead. Hence once the clutch start to slip with you over rev'g on the release, it wants to keep on slipping as well. The reason that the OEM clutch will stop to slip around 5,500rpms, your far enough out of the torque curb that it can start to grab again.

So step one, ranger fluid change until you get the fluid clear/clean again.

Step two, since the clutch pedal assist spring actually cams the pedal down once it gets past is cam point, and then this puts a greater resistance on the fluid coming back. You can either change out the clutch return spring to either a C5 (which give better pedal feed back) or if your not worried about hitting a pump and your cruse control shutting off with the pedal dancing off the top switch, remove the assist spring all together.

Smaller C-5 clutch pedal assist spring on the right,




To sum it up, when clutch pedal dumping, the clutch engagement is not instant, since the orifice restrictions are slowing the fluid coming back to the master cyclinder. Throw in the assist spring pedal resistance that is holding the pedal down, and the heaver mass of the OEM clutch that does not want to return to the lock up position quickly due to Rotational Inertia effect, it not hard to have the clutch slipping when you don't wait for the clutch to fully engage before pinning the gas pedal to the floor. Even worse, the higher the RPM's, the slower the clutch will want to engage due to Rotational Inertia as well.

Rotational Inertia effect,


And yes, it very, very easy to over power the clutch on the vet, hence once it's slipping and you are hammering on the throttle as well, it will continue to slip. So again, you need to wait for the OEM clutch to fully engage before you hammer the gas!!!!

Note, that is not smoke from the tires, but the clutch slipping and burning up instead.


As for the secret to the tick master cylinder and pedal sticking to the floor at high RPM;s, although it reduced one of the orifice restrictors with the two piece type line (the one at the line coupling to the master cylinder itself), it's the removal of the pedal assist spring that is the difference instead. As for removing all the orifice restrictors, then the tick one piece solid line is the one that you want to use.

Hence the OEM line has an office restrictor at the hose to master, another one at the center coupling, then a third at the hose to master cylinder as well. The oem restrictors can be drilled out to allow the clutch to lock up a lot faster on a pedal dump, but the shock to the drive line may cause some damage instead. Also, the oem clutch has only so much holding power once it has locked up fully, so you still have to wait for the clutch to fully engage to get to that holding point before you start hammering on the gas (read corvette build as road coarse car, and not as a drag strip special isntead).


P.s, with a 08 with only 8K miles, got to wonder about the rust level on the flywheel from the car not being drive much instead. Hence with normal driving, the clutch will keep the flywheel clean, but with that much down time, the flywheel surface could be pitted to hell instead. Through in that the clutch could have been abused by lot boys if you bought the car used, and could be that the clutch just needs to be replaced instead. Hence if you are sure that the clutch has fully engaged before you start hammering the throttle, then sounds like the clutch is cooked instead.

 

thanks for the great response. I will be installing the tick master, removing the spring assist and putting fresh fluid in. hopefully that helps a bit
I believe that the clutch isn't fully engaging b/c when I roll into a gear it holds no problem, only when I shift quickly into the next gear it will slip for a second

 

The tick master is kind of a waste for the problem you have (unless you plan on pulling the slave to install the once piece raided line without any restrictors.

Right now, do the clutch fluid changes until you get clear fluid, pull the clutch pedal assist spring or change it out to a C-5 spring, and remember, if you start to slip the OEM clutch while hammering the throttle with high rpms before the clutch has fully ingaged with sling shot powder shifts, the clutch may still slip until you get through the torque curve (plus the sling shot shifts are hard on the trans sync's as well).

Skip to 9:20 and you can see/hear the amount of time you need coming off the throttle to allow the oem clutch enough time to fully re-engage before you get back on the throttle/back on the power with the OEM clutch now fully engaged.
Also, listen closely in the first few gears, and when the revs start to climb wildly with the clutch full engaged, that is the back tires breaking loose/not the clutch slipping. I bring this up, since when the C-6 breaks the back tires, the car will ride/stay calm like normal and the only warning you get is the sound of the engine RPMs going wild instead (unless you get wild wheel hop or the back end decides step out and comes around to over take the front of the car isntead).

 

Thanks again. Ill hold off on the tick for now and save some $$. Would u recommend the c5 spring over no spring? With the spring totally out does the pedal have a more consistent feel all the was through? Funny u posted the video. I just installed the mgw also

 

Yes, with the assist spring removed, better feed back on the pedal over all.

The down side, not spring tension to hold the pedal up against the top pedal switch, so hard enough bump to dance the pedal off the clutch, and the car thinks that you are pushing the clutch pedal in to turn the cruse control off instead.

So unless you are full on drag striping the car, and having a problems with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor during high RPM shifts, the C5 spring is the best of both worlds. The cam over tension is reduced in both directions, hence easy to start to push the pedal down, little less help to hold the pedal to the floor at stop lights, but enough spring assist at the pedal at rest so it not dancing off the top switch on a hard bumps to kick the cruse control out instead.

Hell, the C5 spring is only around $10, so give it, and no assist spring at all a try to see which works best for you.

 

Yes thanks. I removed the spring today and also did the Ranger flush. The clutch pedal feels more consistent now. I will give it a test run once the weather gets better here. I will pick up the C-5 spring just to have as a back up. I never use the cruise control so I'm not really worried about that. There isn't any slop at the top of the pedal so maybe I won't have an issue

 

[QUOTE=Dano523;1591116134]

As for the secret to the tick master cylinder and pedal sticking to the floor at high RPM;s, although it reduced one of the orifice restrictors with the two piece type line (the one at the line coupling to the master cylinder itself), it's the removal of the pedal assist spring that is the difference instead. As for removing all the orifice restrictors, then the tick one piece solid line is the one that you want to use.
QUOTE]

Have a link to the line? Cant find it on there site