Passenger chair
First of all i wish you a very Good New Year.
My problem:
I cant adjust the hight of the chair (electrical chair)
The rest is working fine.
The fuse is okay. It´s only one i issume.
As you all know ther are three motors under the chair for the adjusting of the chairs position.
Two for the hight on the front/back end and one for adjusting the chair in the length possition.
I can hear/feel that it´s happens something with the motor so i think it must be electricity but it seems that it get stucked maybe if that is possebily.
If the motor for the adjusting of hight in the front end is broken is it then possibely to replace only that one?
Grateful for all tips.
Forgive me for my sometimes bad english.
Anders Sandin
Sweden
Next check to make sure that the acme motor nut is not binding to the acme shaft. Hence with your hand on the motor, try to raise and lower the seat and see if you can feel the motor trying to turn at all.
If you have weeded all of this out, then the motor can still be saved, since most likely, is the internal thermal fuse that has worn out (take a long, long time to wear the motor brushes out instead).
The short version, once you have the motor apart, you going to see that just before the motor brushes, there is a thin metal section tab that will mate up to a contact point on the other side, hence the thermal fuse in the motor that once it gets hot, will will spring away from the contact tab break the circuit. Over time if you have a problem with the seat switch that is constantly sending power to the motor, the motors thermal fuse cycles too many times and this wear it out.
As for the fix, you solder past the thermal fuse in the motor, and in the positive wire just before motor, you install a 10 amp fuse in line instead.
Short of this, then you may luck out finding pulled motor that you can swap out in the old power seat rack, or will need to buy a whole new power seat rack instead.
Last edited by Cherokee Nation; Jan 1, 2016 at 03:32 PM. Reason: add
I´m a little cunfused now.
If i understand this correct it is possibely to remove the motor and repair it.
is it also possibely to buy a new one somewhere?
Forgive me for my poor english but i do not really understand this:
Next check to make sure that the acme motor nut is not binding to the acme shaft
My plan is to remove the chair and check so there isn´t any mechanical problem.
Must say yhat i´m dissipointed that this happens since the car is a 2012 years model. Here in Sweden only used for the summers.
Looking forward to hear from you.
The motor you are going after is the one under the silver plate, left hand side.

With motor in hand and removed from the acme rod/seat rail, you going to un-crimp/bend open the motor housing tabs that holds the black end on so can pull the black plastic part off the end of the motor. Inside the motor, there will be a thermal fuse piece your going to solder past, put the motor end cap back on, then re-crimp the housing tabs to hold the end cap back on the motor. From, her your going to put the motor back in, then on the wire to positive side of the motor, your going to splice in a 10 amp in line fuse since we just bypassed the internal one with solder.
This gets the motor working again, but before hand, you need to figure out what cooked the thermal fuse to begin with. Hence, was it a defective seat switch that was sending constant powder to the motor, or was it the seat memory that was sending constant power to the motor to cycle the thermal fuse too many times to cook it instead.
As for just the motors, you can find them from time to time as pulled out units on ebay, as well as used seat rails for cars that have been totaled.
As for the thermal fuse in the motor end cap, don't have a photo handy, but if you post the inside of the motor cap when you pull it off, will mark up your photo so show you what to solder past.
Again, before you do anything, you need to make sure that the motor is getting power when you push the seat button and not a problem up line isntead. To test, just drive two sewing needle through the wires just before the motor, and put a multi-meter on each needle to check for current with the seat button pushed. seat button pushed, should have powder and with the button not pushed, so have no powder instead.
Hence if the switch or seat memory in the problem then when you check without the seat button pushed, your going to have power at the motor and what cooked the thermal fuse in the first place by cycling it over and over again.
Last edited by Dano523; Jan 2, 2016 at 06:01 AM.
The motor you are going after is the one under the silver plate, left hand side.

With motor in hand and removed from the acme rod/seat rail, you going to un-crimp/bend open the motor housing tabs that holds the black end on so can pull the black plastic part off the end of the motor. Inside the motor, there will be a thermal fuse piece your going to solder past, put the motor end cap back on, then re-crimp the housing tabs to hold the end cap back on the motor. From, her your going to put the motor back in, then on the wire to positive side of the motor, your going to splice in a 10 amp in line fuse since we just bypassed the internal one with solder.
This gets the motor working again, but before hand, you need to figure out what cooked the thermal fuse to begin with. Hence, was it a defective seat switch that was sending constant powder to the motor, or was it the seat memory that was sending constant power to the motor to cycle the thermal fuse too many times to cook it instead.
As for just the motors, you can find them from time to time as pulled out units on ebay, as well as used seat rails for cars that have been totaled.
As for the thermal fuse in the motor end cap, don't have a photo handy, but if you post the inside of the motor cap when you pull it off, will mark up your photo so show you what to solder past.
Again, before you do anything, you need to make sure that the motor is getting power when you push the seat button and not a problem up line isntead. To test, just drive two sewing needle through the wires just before the motor, and put a multi-meter on each needle to check for current with the seat button pushed. seat button pushed, should have powder and with the button not pushed, so have no powder instead.
Hence if the switch or seat memory in the problem then when you check without the seat button pushed, your going to have power at the motor and what cooked the thermal fuse in the first place by cycling it over and over again.
If yes, then just have them replace the entire seat rack with a new one, and eat the small deductible instead.
As for stripped gears and no warranty, not a problem for myself, since I can just make a new gear for my own projects instead.
If you don't have a warranty still and can not just make a replacement gear, then may have to just replace the entire seat track since I'm not finding any pull down motors currently on the web to just replace the needed gear or motor. New, they are spendy, but you can find pulled seat racks out of totaled cars for a few hundred dollar. You just need to make sure that the seat track you get matches the model option of your car.
To add, are you sure that its one of the gears on the motor/drive, and not just split Y end fitting on the acme gear instead. Hence if it just split Y end pieces, then you can use clamps around them to they get a bit on the acme screw again.
Last edited by Dano523; Jan 2, 2016 at 08:42 PM.
If yes, then just have them replace the entire seat rack with a new one, and eat the small deductible instead.
As for stripped gears and no warranty, not a problem for myself, since I can just make a new gear for my own projects instead.
If you don't have a warranty still and can not just make a replacement gear, then may have to just replace the entire seat track since I'm not finding any pull down motors currently on the web to just replace the needed gear or motor. New, they are spendy, but you can find pulled seat racks out of totaled cars for a few hundred dollar. You just need to make sure that the seat track you get matches the model option of your car.
To add, are you sure that its one of the gears on the motor/drive, and not just split Y end fitting on the acme gear instead. Hence if it just split Y end pieces, then you can use clamps around them to they get a bit on the acme screw again.
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The problem is up line either with the seat memory module, the BCM or the RCDLR. Hence the RCDLR tells the BCM what fob is in play, then it sends that information to the Seat memory module to adjust the seat accordingly per the seat memory settings (from where was adjusted to now, to where it needs to go for the memory setting).
With the the problem re-occurring again, even if not in within a one year period of that the repair is still covered, would be getting GM on the phone to resolve the problem again on their dime still. Hence the repair started with the car was under warranty, and the repair has still not been completed in a fashion that solved the original problem to close the warranty repair.
Last edited by Dano523; Jan 4, 2016 at 08:43 AM.
The problem is up line either with the seat memory module, the BCM or the RCDLR. Hence the RCDLR tells the BCM what fob is in play, then it sends that information to the Seat memory module to adjust the seat accordingly per the seat memory settings (from where was adjusted to now, to where it needs to go for the memory setting).
With the the problem re-occurring again, even if not in within a one year period of that the repair is still covered, would be getting GM on the phone to resolve the problem again on their dime still. Hence the repair started with the car was under warranty, and the repair has still not been completed in a fashion that solved the original problem to close the warranty repair.
I have solved the problem now.
For some reason the seat was stucked
I just pushed and pulled on the mechanism with a screwdriver where i could reach it and now it works.



Once again thank you.










