LS2/LS7 Swap
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Aiea Hi.
LS2/LS7 Swap
Ok guys, it's time to help that handicapped cousin of yours "Spying Beast".
I've found a rebuilt LS7 long block with some internal upgrades and zero miles since LME put it back together, and want to swap my existing LS2 with LPE Heads, Cam, Throttle body, Dewitt's double thick radiator and fans. A set of American Racing headers and BB catless exhaust, and an 09 Z06 trans and diff and a ECS SI trim blower. I think thats about it as far as the drive train goes
The question is, what is usable from the LS2 in making the LS7 go vroom, and what will be needed to accomplish the swap?
Any help would be seriously appreciated!!!!
Keith
I've found a rebuilt LS7 long block with some internal upgrades and zero miles since LME put it back together, and want to swap my existing LS2 with LPE Heads, Cam, Throttle body, Dewitt's double thick radiator and fans. A set of American Racing headers and BB catless exhaust, and an 09 Z06 trans and diff and a ECS SI trim blower. I think thats about it as far as the drive train goes
The question is, what is usable from the LS2 in making the LS7 go vroom, and what will be needed to accomplish the swap?
Any help would be seriously appreciated!!!!
Keith
Last edited by Spying Beast; Jan 14, 2016 at 12:14 AM.
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Ok guys, it's time to help that handicapped cousin of yours "Spying Beast".
I've found a rebuilt LS7 long block with some internal upgrades and zero miles since LME put it back together, and want to swap my existing LS2 with LPE Heads, Cam, Throttle body, Dewitt's double thick radiator and fans. A set of American Racing headers and BB catless exhaust, and an 09 Z06 trans and diff and a ECS SI trim blower. I think thats about it as far as the drive train goes
The question is, what is usable from the LS2 in making the LS7 go vroom, and what will be needed to accomplish the swap?
Any help would be seriously appreciated!!!!
Keith
I've found a rebuilt LS7 long block with some internal upgrades and zero miles since LME put it back together, and want to swap my existing LS2 with LPE Heads, Cam, Throttle body, Dewitt's double thick radiator and fans. A set of American Racing headers and BB catless exhaust, and an 09 Z06 trans and diff and a ECS SI trim blower. I think thats about it as far as the drive train goes
The question is, what is usable from the LS2 in making the LS7 go vroom, and what will be needed to accomplish the swap?
Any help would be seriously appreciated!!!!
Keith
Assuming that you'll be converting it to a conventional wet sump setup, here's everything I could think of off the top of my head.
Stuff you can reuse:
- The entire cooling system (radiator, hoses, fans, water pump, overflow tank etc)
- AC system
- All other front accessories (PS pump, alternator, tensioner pulley and belts)
- Throttle body
- Valve covers
- Coil packs and brackets
- The entire exhaust system
- Clutch, flywheel and pressure plate
- oil pan and pickup tube
- harmonic balancer (but you'll need to purchase a spacer that Scoggins Dickey sells)
- Spark plug wires
- Differential mounts
- Engine mounts
- Crank sensor
- Starter
- Rear axles
- Knock sensors
- Engine bellhousing
- Fuel system (except for the injectors)
- Evap and vacuum lines and hoses
- Valley cover
- Front and rear engine covers
- Oil pump
- Coolant temp sensor
Stuff you'll need to buy:
- Air intake from an LS3 or LS7, along with the MAF sensor and a pigtail conversion that I believe is sold by Zip Corvettes
- A pigtail for the cam sensor which the dealership sells
- LS7 intake manifold, bolts and fuel rails
- LS3 or LS7 fuel injectors
- LS7 crank bolt
- Torque tube from a Z06 (assuming you'll be running a Z06 trans and differential)
- LS7 spark plugs
You'll also need to make some tuning changes but that's probably the easiest part of the entire swap.
Last edited by subfloor@centurytrans; Jan 14, 2016 at 02:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Aiea Hi.
I've done the swap four times, once on a manual 2005 and three times on a 2007 with a 6L80E transmission.
Assuming that you'll be converting it to a conventional wet sump setup, here's everything I could think of off the top of my head.
Stuff you can reuse:
Stuff you'll need to buy:
You'll also need to make some tuning changes but that's probably the easiest part of the entire swap.
Assuming that you'll be converting it to a conventional wet sump setup, here's everything I could think of off the top of my head.
Stuff you can reuse:
- The entire cooling system (radiator, hoses, fans, water pump, overflow tank etc)
- AC system
- All other front accessories (PS pump, alternator, tensioner pulley and belts)
- Throttle body
- Valve covers
- Coil packs and brackets
- The entire exhaust system
- Clutch, flywheel and pressure plate
- oil pan and pickup tube
- harmonic balancer (but you'll need to purchase a spacer that Scoggins Dickey sells)
- Spark plug wires
- Differential mounts
- Engine mounts
- Crank sensor
- Starter
- Rear axles
- Knock sensors
- Engine bellhousing
- Fuel system (except for the injectors)
- Evap and vacuum lines and hoses
- Valley cover
- Front and rear engine covers
- Oil pump
- Coolant temp sensor
Stuff you'll need to buy:
- Air intake from an LS3 or LS7, along with the MAF sensor and a pigtail conversion that I believe is sold by Zip Corvettes
- A pigtail for the cam sensor which the dealership sells
- LS7 intake manifold, bolts and fuel rails
- LS3 or LS7 fuel injectors
- LS7 crank bolt
- Torque tube from a Z06 (assuming you'll be running a Z06 trans and differential)
- LS7 spark plugs
You'll also need to make some tuning changes but that's probably the easiest part of the entire swap.
DUDE..... YOU ARE THE MAN, thank you very much for this as it saves me countless hours of worry, etc.
Being that you've done this before, what kind of cost would be expected from a legitimate shop to do the work?
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I'm not a shop so it'd probably cost you a lot more as I think I had about 30 hours into it in total.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Aiea Hi.
The Headers and Exhaust, doesn't the LS7 have a different shape port than does the LS2? I read somewhere that was the case which is why I ask if they will bolt right back up...
Lastly, the existing oiling system on the LS7 is a Dry Sump, can I still use the stock LS2 parts, or should I pony up for the oil can and hoses? My car is a garage queen being that we don't have any tracks here on Oahu, so road racing isn't a possibility which is where I thought the Dry Sump would shine... THanks again for your time and input, I TRULY appreciate it....
Keith
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Aiea Hi.
When I did the complete drivetrain swap on that 2005 I think I charged him the equivalent of $2600 (he gave me the LS2 that he was pulling out which I later sold).
I'm not a shop so it'd probably cost you a lot more as I think I had about 30 hours into it in total.
I'm not a shop so it'd probably cost you a lot more as I think I had about 30 hours into it in total.
Keith
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Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
Here is the part that I don't get,
OEM LS2 with super charger, will make about the same power as a OEM LS-7 with super charger.
Hence the LS-7 is does not do well with high boost pressures, while the LS-2 does very well with high boost pressures instead.
Now if we are talking LSX 427 block, with the more head volume to lower the compression, the block is strong enough/compression low enough to bring the pressure back up with the super charger to make way more powder than you could on a stock LS-2 instead.
So LS-2 on super charger for say road coarse use, 650HP is easy to make and use safely, and if for strip use instead, then been told that companies like ECS have LS2 motors pushing 800HP on the stock motor.
Bluntly, if you want a N/A motor, the LS-7 is great for that because of the displacement. But when when you start taking superchargers on a stock motor, you want a motor that can take boost well instead. Hence forget displacement, since we are going to increase the static pressure of the cylinders working pressure instead.
OEM LS2 with super charger, will make about the same power as a OEM LS-7 with super charger.
Hence the LS-7 is does not do well with high boost pressures, while the LS-2 does very well with high boost pressures instead.
Now if we are talking LSX 427 block, with the more head volume to lower the compression, the block is strong enough/compression low enough to bring the pressure back up with the super charger to make way more powder than you could on a stock LS-2 instead.
So LS-2 on super charger for say road coarse use, 650HP is easy to make and use safely, and if for strip use instead, then been told that companies like ECS have LS2 motors pushing 800HP on the stock motor.
Bluntly, if you want a N/A motor, the LS-7 is great for that because of the displacement. But when when you start taking superchargers on a stock motor, you want a motor that can take boost well instead. Hence forget displacement, since we are going to increase the static pressure of the cylinders working pressure instead.
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Also, will I need to obtain another bracket from A&A for the Supercharger, or will the LS2 version bolt right up? I can always ask them, but I thought to ask you first seeing that you've accomplished this a few times.
The Headers and Exhaust, doesn't the LS7 have a different shape port than does the LS2? I read somewhere that was the case which is why I ask if they will bolt right back up...
Lastly, the existing oiling system on the LS7 is a Dry Sump, can I still use the stock LS2 parts, or should I pony up for the oil can and hoses? My car is a garage queen being that we don't have any tracks here on Oahu, so road racing isn't a possibility which is where I thought the Dry Sump would shine... THanks again for your time and input, I TRULY appreciate it....
Keith
The Headers and Exhaust, doesn't the LS7 have a different shape port than does the LS2? I read somewhere that was the case which is why I ask if they will bolt right back up...
Lastly, the existing oiling system on the LS7 is a Dry Sump, can I still use the stock LS2 parts, or should I pony up for the oil can and hoses? My car is a garage queen being that we don't have any tracks here on Oahu, so road racing isn't a possibility which is where I thought the Dry Sump would shine... THanks again for your time and input, I TRULY appreciate it....
Keith
Yes, the exhaust ports are different but they're close enough that I don't think it really matters. I'm probably giving up a little top end horsepower running the smaller exhaust but I don't think it's enough of a difference to justify the time, cost and hassle of having to switch everything out.
I'd absolutely stick with the wet sump system. I've done it both ways and prefer it because with the dry sump you need to relocate the battery to the back (which means buying and installing Z06 battery cables), cut out the battery tray to make room for the oil tank (which is an absolute PITA and the worst part of the process) and the external oil tank and lines are pretty expensive.
The wet sump on the other hand only requires you buy that crank snout spacer and then lets you use the rest of your existing parts.
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I've done the swap four times, once on a manual 2005 and three times on a 2007 with a 6L80E transmission.
Assuming that you'll be converting it to a conventional wet sump setup, here's everything I could think of off the top of my head.
Stuff you can reuse:
Stuff you'll need to buy:
You'll also need to make some tuning changes but that's probably the easiest part of the entire swap.
Assuming that you'll be converting it to a conventional wet sump setup, here's everything I could think of off the top of my head.
Stuff you can reuse:
- The entire cooling system (radiator, hoses, fans, water pump, overflow tank etc)
- AC system
- All other front accessories (PS pump, alternator, tensioner pulley and belts)
- Throttle body
- Valve covers
- Coil packs and brackets
- The entire exhaust system
- Clutch, flywheel and pressure plate
- oil pan and pickup tube
- harmonic balancer (but you'll need to purchase a spacer that Scoggins Dickey sells)
- Spark plug wires
- Differential mounts
- Engine mounts
- Crank sensor
- Starter
- Rear axles
- Knock sensors
- Engine bellhousing
- Fuel system (except for the injectors)
- Evap and vacuum lines and hoses
- Valley cover
- Front and rear engine covers
- Oil pump
- Coolant temp sensor
Stuff you'll need to buy:
- Air intake from an LS3 or LS7, along with the MAF sensor and a pigtail conversion that I believe is sold by Zip Corvettes
- A pigtail for the cam sensor which the dealership sells
- LS7 intake manifold, bolts and fuel rails
- LS3 or LS7 fuel injectors
- LS7 crank bolt
- Torque tube from a Z06 (assuming you'll be running a Z06 trans and differential)
- LS7 spark plugs
You'll also need to make some tuning changes but that's probably the easiest part of the entire swap.
MODS, MAKE THIS A STICKY!!! I find this amazing and don't even plan on doing a swap
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Aiea Hi.
Here is the part that I don't get,
OEM LS2 with super charger, will make about the same power as a OEM LS-7 with super charger.
Hence the LS-7 is does not do well with high boost pressures, while the LS-2 does very well with high boost pressures instead.
Now if we are talking LSX 427 block, with the more head volume to lower the compression, the block is strong enough/compression low enough to bring the pressure back up with the super charger to make way more powder than you could on a stock LS-2 instead.
So LS-2 on super charger for say road coarse use, 650HP is easy to make and use safely, and if for strip use instead, then been told that companies like ECS have LS2 motors pushing 800HP on the stock motor.
Bluntly, if you want a N/A motor, the LS-7 is great for that because of the displacement. But when when you start taking superchargers on a stock motor, you want a motor that can take boost well instead. Hence forget displacement, since we are going to increase the static pressure of the cylinders working pressure instead.
OEM LS2 with super charger, will make about the same power as a OEM LS-7 with super charger.
Hence the LS-7 is does not do well with high boost pressures, while the LS-2 does very well with high boost pressures instead.
Now if we are talking LSX 427 block, with the more head volume to lower the compression, the block is strong enough/compression low enough to bring the pressure back up with the super charger to make way more powder than you could on a stock LS-2 instead.
So LS-2 on super charger for say road coarse use, 650HP is easy to make and use safely, and if for strip use instead, then been told that companies like ECS have LS2 motors pushing 800HP on the stock motor.
Bluntly, if you want a N/A motor, the LS-7 is great for that because of the displacement. But when when you start taking superchargers on a stock motor, you want a motor that can take boost well instead. Hence forget displacement, since we are going to increase the static pressure of the cylinders working pressure instead.
Do you still feel this isnt soemthing that one could put massive boost to so,as to achieve 900+ WHP?
I only ask as I seriously do not know any better, and with all forged and polished parts, it would seem very stout... PLEASE let me know your thoughts with the new, non OEM information. This is very valuable to me, truly.
Thanks,
Keith
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Aiea Hi.
I can't help you on the blower stuff as I'm strictly an NA guy.
Yes, the exhaust ports are different but they're close enough that I don't think it really matters. I'm probably giving up a little top end horsepower running the smaller exhaust but I don't think it's enough of a difference to justify the time, cost and hassle of having to switch everything out.
I'd absolutely stick with the wet sump system. I've done it both ways and prefer it because with the dry sump you need to relocate the battery to the back (which means buying and installing Z06 battery cables), cut out the battery tray to make room for the oil tank (which is an absolute PITA and the worst part of the process) and the external oil tank and lines are pretty expensive.
The wet sump on the other hand only requires you buy that crank snout spacer and then lets you use the rest of your existing parts.
Yes, the exhaust ports are different but they're close enough that I don't think it really matters. I'm probably giving up a little top end horsepower running the smaller exhaust but I don't think it's enough of a difference to justify the time, cost and hassle of having to switch everything out.
I'd absolutely stick with the wet sump system. I've done it both ways and prefer it because with the dry sump you need to relocate the battery to the back (which means buying and installing Z06 battery cables), cut out the battery tray to make room for the oil tank (which is an absolute PITA and the worst part of the process) and the external oil tank and lines are pretty expensive.
The wet sump on the other hand only requires you buy that crank snout spacer and then lets you use the rest of your existing parts.
Ultimately, I want a forged set up that I can get 900 WHP out of and not stress grenading the motor.... Am I going about this wrong with my current direction, and if so, which direction should I go in?
The seller is a good man and a dont want to waste his time. So if this isn't going to work, or there's a better way PLEASE in lighten me.
A GIANT thanks to all that have chimed in with their opinions....
Peace!
Keith
Last edited by Spying Beast; Jan 14, 2016 at 10:14 PM.
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Why not just build a forged LS2 or LS3? LS7's have thinner cylinder walls which isn't exactly ideal. Whether it really matters or not at 900rwhp, I have no idea. Hopefully someone else chimes in.
Last edited by schpenxel; Jan 15, 2016 at 08:23 AM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 488
Likes: 59
From: New Melle, Missouri
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
Consider the cost for sure, you could typically do a LSx 416/418 and be in the ballpark for CID, with more protection, and a ton cheaper. Unless your friends uncle's buddy is giving you a great deal.
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LS-7 short block and look at the cylinder sleeves and notice how the sleeves have been thinned between each other, and not block aluminum support between sleeve to sleeve isntead.
Also, when thinking motor pistons, wide and short stroke pistons for higher reving motors, long stoke and narrow pistons for more lower end torque/ lower revving motors instead (read stoke, displacement, max rpms =HP).
Hence when you stoke a 350 to 383 motor, it's the lower RPM's that you are picking up power, verse if you bored the motor to use larger pistons and the same stroke instead, which allows the motor to rev higher/faster to pick up more Hp that way instead. Hence on a F1 motor, its not displacement that make all the power since the 3.8" pistons only stokes about a inch and half, but that fact that the motor revs to 20K that make all the power isntead.
Last edited by Dano523; Jan 15, 2016 at 05:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Aiea Hi.
Yep,
LS-2 short block, and look at the cylinder sleeves and the fact that you still have aluminum block support between the sleeves.
LS-7 short block and look at the cylinder sleeves and notice how the sleeves have been thinned between each other, and not block aluminum support between sleeve to sleeve isntead.
Also, when thinking motor pistons, wide and short stroke pistons for higher reving motors, long stoke and narrow pistons for more lower end torque/ lower revving motors instead (read stoke, displacement, max rpms =HP).
Hence when you stoke a 350 to 383 motor, it's the lower RPM's that you are picking up power, verse if you bored the motor to use larger pistons and the same stroke instead, which allows the motor to rev higher/faster to pick up more Hp that way instead. Hence on a F1 motor, its not displacement that make all the power since the 3.8" pistons only stokes about a inch and half, but that fact that the motor revs to 20K that make all the power isntead.
LS-2 short block, and look at the cylinder sleeves and the fact that you still have aluminum block support between the sleeves.
LS-7 short block and look at the cylinder sleeves and notice how the sleeves have been thinned between each other, and not block aluminum support between sleeve to sleeve isntead.
Also, when thinking motor pistons, wide and short stroke pistons for higher reving motors, long stoke and narrow pistons for more lower end torque/ lower revving motors instead (read stoke, displacement, max rpms =HP).
Hence when you stoke a 350 to 383 motor, it's the lower RPM's that you are picking up power, verse if you bored the motor to use larger pistons and the same stroke instead, which allows the motor to rev higher/faster to pick up more Hp that way instead. Hence on a F1 motor, its not displacement that make all the power since the 3.8" pistons only stokes about a inch and half, but that fact that the motor revs to 20K that make all the power isntead.
Makes absolute sense, now show me where I can ge that nice shines LS2 Forged Set Up as that thing is sexy as hell!!!
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I put a built ls7 in my 05 c6. It is putting down 605whp on 91 octane NA. I could add nitrous and make 900. You couldn't make that just slapping an s trim on your motor. But it's really all about what your hp goals are.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 261
From: Miami Florida
If i was to say what i do in your case with the wrench time and experience i have this is what i would do:
Take the ls7 and change pistons for 12 to one compression get a cam spec to support your goals, I'm sure 600 whp will be easy and the car will remain light and be a real beast and run cool with the dual core rad you have in mind.
Take the ls7 and change pistons for 12 to one compression get a cam spec to support your goals, I'm sure 600 whp will be easy and the car will remain light and be a real beast and run cool with the dual core rad you have in mind.
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 6
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Ecm
I've done the swap four times, once on a manual 2005 and three times on a 2007 with a 6L80E transmission.
Assuming that you'll be converting it to a conventional wet sump setup, here's everything I could think of off the top of my head.
Stuff you can reuse:
Stuff you'll need to buy:
You'll also need to make some tuning changes but that's probably the easiest part of the entire swap.
Assuming that you'll be converting it to a conventional wet sump setup, here's everything I could think of off the top of my head.
Stuff you can reuse:
- The entire cooling system (radiator, hoses, fans, water pump, overflow tank etc)
- AC system
- All other front accessories (PS pump, alternator, tensioner pulley and belts)
- Throttle body
- Valve covers
- Coil packs and brackets
- The entire exhaust system
- Clutch, flywheel and pressure plate
- oil pan and pickup tube
- harmonic balancer (but you'll need to purchase a spacer that Scoggins Dickey sells)
- Spark plug wires
- Differential mounts
- Engine mounts
- Crank sensor
- Starter
- Rear axles
- Knock sensors
- Engine bellhousing
- Fuel system (except for the injectors)
- Evap and vacuum lines and hoses
- Valley cover
- Front and rear engine covers
- Oil pump
- Coolant temp sensor
Stuff you'll need to buy:
- Air intake from an LS3 or LS7, along with the MAF sensor and a pigtail conversion that I believe is sold by Zip Corvettes
- A pigtail for the cam sensor which the dealership sells
- LS7 intake manifold, bolts and fuel rails
- LS3 or LS7 fuel injectors
- LS7 crank bolt
- Torque tube from a Z06 (assuming you'll be running a Z06 trans and differential)
- LS7 spark plugs
You'll also need to make some tuning changes but that's probably the easiest part of the entire swap.
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