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Ordered a set of Kooks 1 7/8" headers with catless x pipes today. Also ordered ARP stud kit, GM exhaust gaskets, and a set of spark plug wire boots. My car is a 2012 Grand Sport, the only modifications are a Halltech MF 103 intake and a custom Diablew tune. I will install the headers myself. I know I will need to get a new tune, anything else I should expect or plan for? I ordered the 1 7/8" headers because at some point I want to install a Magnuson Heartbeat. The headers are 4 weeks out and then it will take a while to get them installed so this may take a couple months. Any constructive advice would be appreciated.
I also have 2012 grandsport, installing 103 and beehive today then get tune from lew. Was it much of a difference over stock? Thanks
Am happy with the tune from Lew. Car really pulls strong, shifts are a lot firmer, seems to be a lot more responsive. Lew is great to work with. I will have him retune once I get the headers installed. I may have the car dyno tuned someday but there are no tuners close to me that I am aware of.
Why did you bought studs and gaskets? ? They all comes with the headers! I just did mine on a 2012 GS dry sump, but i got kooks 2" primaries, im supercharged. Kooks are very nice products you don't need to get other hardware! Also if you want to make your life easier while installing headers lower the cradle, it takes 5 mins and makes it MUCH easier!
Why did you bought studs and gaskets? ? They all comes with the headers! I just did mine on a 2012 GS dry sump, but i got kooks 2" primaries, im supercharged. Kooks are very nice products you don't need to get other hardware! Also if you want to make your life easier while installing headers lower the cradle, it takes 5 mins and makes it MUCH easier!
Yea I know the headers come with all the hardware, and I knew some would question my rational of spending money I made not need too. I want no chance of exhaust leaks and have heard off too many problems with aftermarket gaskets, I may just reuse the old ones if not the new ones were only $30. The studs were more expensive but feel they will give me an easier solution if I ever need to remove the headers and easier to hang the headers when installing. ARP makes good products and I think I will have a better chance of no leaks with them. All of this may not be needed or may be overkill but I have been accused of overbuilding my projects before. Everything about these cars are expensive and I realize that so a little extra now doesn't bother me too much. Thanks for the advice on the cradle.
Last edited by Husker C6; Jan 16, 2016 at 11:12 AM.
Yea I know the headers come with all the hardware, and I knew some would question my rational of spending money I made not need too. I want no chance of exhaust leaks and have heard off too many problems with aftermarket gaskets, I may just reuse the old ones if not the new ones were only $30. The studs were more expensive but feel they will give me an easier solution if I ever need to remove the headers and easier to hang the headers when installing. ARP makes good products and I think I will have a better chance of no leaks with them. All of this may not be needed or may be overkill but I have been accused of overbuilding my projects before. Everything about these cars are expensive and I realize that so a little extra now doesn't bother me too much. Thanks for the advice on the cradle.
nothing wrong with spending a little more on the details.
Get new seals for the dry sump hoses, oil and a filter. Antisieze all bolts. Make sure the O2 wires are nowhere near the pipes, firesleeve/wire tie as needed. I also firesleeve the clutch line. I notice Kooks are closer to the clutch line than ARH's. Without cats, you'll need a tune since the rear O2's are no longer reading correctly.
Get new seals for the dry sump hoses, oil and a filter. Antisieze all bolts. Make sure the O2 wires are nowhere near the pipes, firesleeve/wire tie as needed. I also firesleeve the clutch line. I notice Kooks are closer to the clutch line than ARH's. Without cats, you'll need a tune since the rear O2's are no longer reading correctly.
My cars an auto. Anything else I need to worry about getting hot or that I should wrap or put a firesleeve on? I will use antisieze on all bolts. I know I will need a tune, I am hoping it will be ok to drive till I get the tune. If I do a dyno tune the closest one is about 150 miles.
You may need to tweek the cooler pipes by the bellhousing on the right side. Pay attention to the wiring for the starter and knock sensors. I've seen the white connector on the starter get discolored and brittle from the headers, firesleeve it also
Just a quick update. Installed the headers and x pipe last weekend. Install was fairly easy. Glad I had access to a lift, made the job much easier. Wrapped the starter, lines and wires. The fit and quality of the headers was very good. Really like the looks of the Airborn coating. The difference in sound is amazing, with the valves closed it is only marginally louder but open them up and it sounds awesome. Haven't really got on it too much, it goes in for a tune on Monday. Will update again after the tune.
Got a dyno tune done yesterday. Did 5 or 6 pulls to get everything dialed in. Ended up at 403HP, 401TQ. I am satisfied with those numbers. The car runs really well and as I have said numerous times sounds great. Time to start planning the next upgrade.
Got a dyno tune done yesterday. Did 5 or 6 pulls to get everything dialed in. Ended up at 403HP, 401TQ. I am satisfied with those numbers. The car runs really well and as I have said numerous times sounds great. Time to start planning the next upgrade.
awsome !!! I take it that you have the stock npp exhaust ?
Got a dyno tune done yesterday. Did 5 or 6 pulls to get everything dialed in. Ended up at 403HP, 401TQ. I am satisfied with those numbers. The car runs really well and as I have said numerous times sounds great. Time to start planning the next upgrade.
Thought I heard you should be around 420-425 at the wheels on an LS3 with the headers, air intake and tune? Not trying to be negative about your numbers but I did almost the same on the dyno 402HP and 403tq without headers, just Airaid, bullet axle back and tune on my 2010 GS, maybe I'll hold off on the headers if not much difference?
Thought I heard you should be around 420-425 at the wheels on an LS3 with the headers, air intake and tune? Not trying to be negative about your numbers but I did almost the same on the dyno 402HP and 403tq without headers, just Airaid, bullet axle back and tune on my 2010 GS, maybe I'll hold off on the headers if not much difference?
No problem, the dyno was used for tuning, the numbers are just that numbers. This was done on a Mustang dyno so the numbers will not be as high as a dyno jet. The car runs really well and I would highly recommend headers, the sound is worth the price alone.
No problem, the dyno was used for tuning, the numbers are just that numbers. This was done on a Mustang dyno so the numbers will not be as high as a dyno jet. The car runs really well and I would highly recommend headers, the sound is worth the price alone.
I heard the sound is great adding the headers. Not sure the headers would be too load with my bullet exhaust, it sounds pretty good the way it is and don't want to ruin my ride, still contemplating, I would want close to another 20hp for the cost of putting them on though.
I heard the sound is great adding the headers. Not sure the headers would be too load with my bullet exhaust, it sounds pretty good the way it is and don't want to ruin my ride, still contemplating, I would want close to another 20hp for the cost of putting them on though.
Don't know how it would sound with your exhaust. I love the sound with the NPP open but am glad I can close them running down the highway.
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