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Quarter Panel Removal Advice

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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 12:02 AM
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Default Quarter Panel Removal Advice

I'm new here and looking for some advice, I've searched but I haven't found much information but its entirely possible I have overlooked something, feel free to point me in a direction if I have.

I need a door ding fixed on my right rear, above the tire on the quarter panel. I've gotten a few estimates for anywhere from $900-$1200 and it seemed that most of that was labor to remove the panel.

I'm average to below average handy with tools. Question is, how difficult would it be and would it be worth it to just remove the panel myself and take it in for the repair to save about 1/2 of the estimated repair cost?

Thanks!
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 12:18 AM
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Why do they need to remove it? And it's not that hard.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 12:19 AM
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All 3 places I've taken it to said they had to remove it to clear coat it properly, get under the clips, bolts etc.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 12:59 AM
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luck.....Hk
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:08 AM
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I don't understand.

To repair, what I see as a minor chip that may or may not have cracked the body panel.

If cracked, access may be available by removing the trunk/ cargo compartment liners so once can add filler/ support on the backside of the panel to stop the crack.

Then the paint need to be removed over the ding and filler applied to the crack and sanded smooth.

Remove rear bumper, remove side maker light, remove hatch weatherstrip, tape up door jam and under carriage and sand entire panel to correct mil thickness, prime and re-sand, match color, spray color, spray clear, polish, reassemble.

That's the quick jest...the quarter panel does not need to be removed from what I see in your photo...I don't understand.

However I my area $1200 to just repaint a quarter panel; that amount seems correct.

(PS to answer your question I believe the panel is seemed at the rocker paneled so it would be difficult and require paint work on re-assembly)

(UPDATED from the posts below my belief that the panel is seemed may be incorrect. My recollection was it seemed at the rocker panel...sorry for any confusion)

Good luck.

Last edited by Kenny94945; Jan 26, 2016 at 06:38 AM. Reason: Updated
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 02:48 PM
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It's just bolted on. Can be painted seperate. But it may not match well if not blended into the surrounding panels.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 04:40 PM
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If it's Torch or Victory Red you can find an OEM quarter for $200.

They are common as most wrecks take out the front end.

Getting it shipped and in mint condition is another story.

color match? who knows with year/sun exposure.

.02
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveDoten@ARH
If it's Torch or Victory Red you can find an OEM quarter for $200.

They are common as most wrecks take out the front end.

Getting it shipped and in mint condition is another story.

color match? who knows with year/sun exposure.

.02
Color match would scare me to death on ordering from a salvage.

I was really expecting this to be 400-500 repair, and with what I see it would be sans the labor to pull the panel.

But if it's "seemed", that sounds more complicated than 10 or 15 bolts.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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I'd trust the color match from an OEM painted part off a salvage car over a body shop that's trying to match it personally

Last edited by schpenxel; Jan 25, 2016 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:32 PM
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It will literally only take 20 minutes to remove the rear panel with hand tools.
Get a used panel and pay a detailer to buff it out to showroom shine and reinstall.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
I'd trust the color match from an OEM painted part off a salvage car over a body shop that's trying to match it personally
Really? (And I don't mean that sarcastically, just surprise)

My car has lived in the garage since new, one that's been in the sun over the better part of a decade you'd think would match? I just assumed red like that would be shades different.

And mine is Victory Red.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by russ472
It will literally only take 20 minutes to remove the rear panel with hand tools.
Get a used panel and pay a detailer to buff it out to showroom shine and reinstall.
And also, excuse my lack of knowledge, someone before mentioned that it was "seemed" and would require body/paint work to fully remove and re-install. What does that mean? And is that part of the "20" minutes?
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by wjp67216
And also, excuse my lack of knowledge, someone before mentioned that it was "seemed" and would require body/paint work to fully remove and re-install. What does that mean? And is that part of the "20" minutes?
there are no seams. remove clips and screws in the wheel liner. remove wheel liner. remove tail lamps. open hatch, remove top screws in side panel, open door and remove screws. there is one screw under side. I believe two bolts that have to be removed through the tail lamp holes.
Then it can be lifted off. if its on the driver side, you will have to unscrew the gas filler neck. again I believe 3 screws.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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That doesn't sound bad at all, you don't even have to remove the rear bumper? And it's on the passenger side just above the wheel.

Thanks for all the info. I'm a fairly talented detailer, I'm sure I could get a salvage panel looking new, short of deep scratches etc. My only concern with that route is the color fade I just assumed would occur.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:54 PM
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http://www.badimagegraphics.com/files/widebodyguide.pdf

Here is one of the guides I used to help me do my wide body conversion. Its very good.
It will surprise you at how easy it is to remove the back panels.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 10:29 PM
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Clear coats these days are pretty damn good at UV protection. Maybe body shops are better than they used to be at matching colors, but I've seen (personally experienced) what goes into developing a color at the OEM level and it is insane how detailed they are about keeping colors the same car to car and part to part.

Of course my experience is from being a supplier to GM.. if GM paints these themselves in house then they probably let anything go

(and of course you'll probably follow my advice and get a junk yard panel that's been outside in Arizona for 10 years that is actually faded and I'll be wrong.. but hey, I'm just some guy on the internet so it's ok if I'm wrong )

Last edited by schpenxel; Jan 25, 2016 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by russ472
http://www.badimagegraphics.com/files/widebodyguide.pdf

Here is one of the guides I used to help me do my wide body conversion. Its very good.
It will surprise you at how easy it is to remove the back panels.
Thanks, that guide helped a lot.

I found a couple that are a few years of my car on car-parts.com salvage, I emailed to ask for pics. $250-$300 range.

I assume the year doesn't really matter so much as long as its the same color code and base C6?

Last edited by wjp67216; Jan 25, 2016 at 11:27 PM.
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