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I have only seen 1 2010 Z06 pinion spanner nut that came loose (it was never staked from the factory) and caused a noise out of all the C5/C6/C7 differential we have done.
Although the bearings do wear and the backlash do change over time but the root cause of the noise either have to be heat or lack of fluid change. The floating metal debris is an abrasive that eats at the ring and pinion gears. Car owners are religious about changing their engine oil but when asked about how often they change other fluids and most will tell me they can't remember.
The C5/C6/C7 differentials are different that the pinion gear sits behind the ring gear. You can't just set the pinion shim and then move on to the side shims like you do on the solid rear axles diffs. These differentials are shimmed in combination (when you change side shim, the pinion shim has to be changed in combination to have to correct backlash AND pattern).
There are 4 bearings in the diffs (2 support pinion carrier and 2 side carrier bearings) and they are pretty big compared to other solid diffs (especially pinion carrier bearings). We normally replace them due to discoloration but I have personally never seen one fail other than when something else has failed and damaged the bearings.
The reason DTE (now Hoosiers) recommends yearly diff oil changes for the differential rebuild I purchased 6 years back.
Thanks for all the information from both of you! I think I will get a ring and pinion. Do you think I can get just a new ring and pinion without the whole kit and have it installed?
Originally Posted by Rick@RKT Performance
Yes but after the install, you must check the backlash and the pattern. If it's not correct, you'll have the same issue later.
Rick please correct me if I am wrong(I probably am), but any new gear set will have to be completely re-shimmed right? You cant just bolt a new ring onto the carrier and toss a new pinion gear in with the old shims, unless you some how managed to luck into a new gear set that is 100% identical to the old set(I have never seen this before personally, but I am more experienced with Jeep gear sets, maybe Corvette gear sets are made to a higher tolerance).
And I personally would never go that far into an axle without changing the bearings, especially at 80k miles.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Originally Posted by rjacobs
Great info in there. These diff's seem to be a mystery and nobody really talks about them.
I kind of want to get one from a junker and tear it apart just to see how everything goes in these.
Axle/differential work is something that a lot of people are afraid of. Once I learned how to assemble and shim and measure and what not the solid axle's on Jeeps, i became much less scared of tearing into them. That was really the only thing I hadnt ever touched before, but after I got into it and got taught the right way to work on them with the proper tools, the mystery and "fear" was very quickly removed from me.
There were some forum members who tackled the gear install after purchasing GM Kent Moore tools but ended up giving up. I'll tell you this, the side carrier shims are only available from GM and they are pricy. We have about $1,000 worth of shims for all application.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Originally Posted by rjacobs
Rick please correct me if I am wrong(I probably am), but any new gear set will have to be completely re-shimmed right? You cant just bolt a new ring onto the carrier and toss a new pinion gear in with the old shims, unless you some how managed to luck into a new gear set that is 100% identical to the old set(I have never seen this before personally, but I am more experienced with Jeep gear sets, maybe Corvette gear sets are made to a higher tolerance).
And I personally would never go that far into an axle without changing the bearings, especially at 80k miles.
When we install same ratio gears, they are normally close but still have to shimmed to be perfect. At 80K, we would recommend replacing the bearings.
I talk to a guy today that has a very respected shop. He said to drain the fluid and try GMs new diff fluid that is for these cars. Apparently they made a special type of fluid bc the started making noises. Maybe mine didn't like the fluid I used?
I talk to a guy today that has a very respected shop. He said to drain the fluid and try GMs new diff fluid that is for these cars. Apparently they made a special type of fluid bc the started making noises. Maybe mine didn't like the fluid I used?
The noise he is most likely referring to is the clunking and/or grinding noise some have experienced. This is something completely different and a fluid change will not fix what you have. I've tried GM, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and even a custom blend in various viscosities. None have made any difference. The only fix is a replacement.
The noise he is most likely referring to is the clunking and/or grinding noise some have experienced. This is something completely different and a fluid change will not fix what you have. I've tried GM, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and even a custom blend in various viscosities. None have made any difference. The only fix is a replacement.
I don't think what mine is doing could even be considered a clunking or grinding. I don't think anything has came apart. But I'm completely lost at this point. I am thinking about taking it out and getting it gone through.
I don't think what mine is doing could even be considered a clunking or grinding. I don't think anything has came apart. But I'm completely lost at this point. I am thinking about taking it out and getting it gone through.
The fluid change is only a fix for the clunking/grinding noise. Which is a different issue and not something you have.
Your video shows the same high pitch whine/hum as mine and a few others have reported. A fluid change will not fix this. I have tried 4 different fluids. If you have an experienced shop near you, have them inspect it and I bet their only advice will be to change out the gears.
The fluid change is only a fix for the clunking/grinding noise. Which is a different issue and not something you have.
Your video shows the same high pitch whine/hum as mine and a few others have reported. A fluid change will not fix this. I have tried 4 different fluids. If you have an experienced shop near you, have them inspect it and I bet their only advice will be to change out the gears.
That's what I'm thinking too man. We will see though.
Can't here the clunking from inside. Idk if it's new I haven't listened to it from under before.
That is scary. Mine makes a very similar whine/hum sound as yours but I've never listened from underneath either. It makes me want to now. Did the clunking noise repeat itself as it was given gas or was it just the one time?
That is scary. Mine makes a very similar whine/hum sound as yours but I've never listened from underneath either. It makes me want to now. Did the clunking noise repeat itself as it was given gas or was it just the one time?
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
The clunking is normal if you have the wheels off of the ground. It's the driveline slack (transmission/ring and pinion gears) causing the clunking with no load to the wheels.
It's definitely your ring and pinion gears making the whine.
The clunking is normal if you have the wheels off of the ground. It's the driveline slack (transmission/ring and pinion gears) causing the clunking with no load to the wheels.
It's definitely your ring and pinion gears making the whine.
I pulled the diff last night has a lot of metal in it. I'm taking it off next Friday to have rebuilt new gears and bearing. Thanks do the help!
The clunking is normal if you have the wheels off of the ground. It's the driveline slack (transmission/ring and pinion gears) causing the clunking with no load to the wheels.
It's definitely your ring and pinion gears making the whine.