So just finished the install and some driving impressions;
First it is noticably tighter and the ride is firm but very good way better thatn my stock shocks with 40k miles so that was a big plus. I am still on my old GY runflats so cant push it too much. One of the reasons for the upgrade was the bumpy 2 lanes roads I drive and I wanted better response in bumpy corners which was my main goal. My current judge turn is a very bumpy downhill righthander that if i take more than 50 or so back end kicks out. Well took it at 70 today no issues probably could have done 80 but its a blind corner. Very happy with the way the handling has improved, how nice the ride is(firm but not jarring) I think overall the kit with sways and shocks are a very good package and would recommend to anyone. I was back and forth on what shocks to get and in the end am very happy to go with the package of JOC sways and shocks. Got a great deal $1100 they were running a special a couple weeks back. No pop's, clicks, noises, runs super smooth on highway and on ramps and fixed my bumpy corner issue.

From a installation standpoint very straightforward, ill give some details.
First get car up in air all 4 wheels. remove endlinks from control arms, then remove swaybar bushing brakets and pull front and rear sways out. Rear shocks are 13mm on top used really long extension and air tools. Bottom are 15/16 use air tools. Fronts used 13mm on bolts for lower shock mounts. Top you need to use a 6mm to hold the threaded end, 15mm on top shock bolt. I used cable ties to compress the shocks to get them out.

Instructions say to remove upper control arm bolts to frame and swing out of way I did the cable tie method.

Total time from car on ground to sways and shocks off less than 2 hours.

Some comparison picks of sways and shocks. shocks are the beefier re-valved Z06 shocks and swaybars are huge.



Installation started in the rear. I installed new shocks by compressing them, securing with tie wraps wiggle it in and tighten bolts. Maybe 10 minutes for both. Rear sways you use the supplied lube on the bushings and put bushings on the swaybar. Attach with bracket and bolt and nut. You will notice that if you tighten the brackets, the sways wont move. You need to add a couple washers under the bracket, keep adding until the swaybar can move fairly easily. At this point, put rear wheels back on and lower onto a set of ramps or similar so you can load the suspension. Once loaded, adj the end link length so it will fit between the middle hole on sway bar and control arm (This is recommended starting point for adj) I used 60 ft/lbs on these from recommendations in a thread(instructions say 50 ft/lbs)

Next is front. Again compress new shocks and use cable ties to hold until you get them in place then just cut them. Make sure you guide them into place after you cut so the top of shock goes into hole in top.Attach bottom using the 13mm bolts, top use the supplied bushings and bolts. One thing to note was I needed to trim off about 1/8" with razor knife on the top rubber bushing I just couldn't get the bolt started. The front sway bars have the same issues with needing washers. I went to Lowes and got larger 1 1/2"fender washers for the fronts as i didn't like the way it was sitting with the smaller washers i had. Also had to grind them a little to fit properly. Again keep adding washers until it moves freely.
The end links on the front you dont need to load. I called aFE and they told me to adj the end links half way. It was 22 turns from just started to end so i used 11 turns for half way. They said this was a good starting point. Tighten everything up using the torques specs from thier instructions.

Here's some final pics, i also did the G2 kit and painted my calipers red.