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I have an 06 vert, supercharged (maggie mp112). My check engine light (CEL) came on the other day so I took it to the gm dealer today. They said its a fuel issue, banks 1 and 2 are running lean, hence the CEL. An FYI the pod fuel gauge says 44 psi (it should be 58-60). Further, the GM tech said its a tune issue, and that a speciality shop tuner should be able to tune for the boost a pump (BAP) to increase fuel pressure? Later in the day I took the car to a speciality shop and the tech their said its not a tune issue, rather its a fuel pump problem (needs replacing). He never even tested the BAP? Question I have do I replace the fuel pump, the BAP, or get a tune?? How do I hone in on this problem to determine what the culprit is?
If it were my vette, I would get the technical info for my specific BAP electronics, and I would hook up wires so that I could monitor it under full load with a voltmeter.
I believe some raise the voltage as high as 18V, but your documentation should tell you the voltage level you should see.
IF you are getting the specified higher voltage to your fuel pump, and it is not keeping fuel pressure up, I would suspect the pump is starting to fail (which is a problem sometimes with boost a pump setups).
A failing pump usually gets worse the more you drive it too. Meaning, you may see good fuel pressure if you get on it the first few minutes of driving, but see it drop after you drive an hour or so.
Now if your voltage is low during your testing, it could be bad/loose wiring, a failing BAP, etc.
Thanks Seadawg that is helpful. Interestingly the fuel pump pressure stays constant at 44 psi through an entire drive, i.e., 1hour, 2hours etc. Would this indicate that the pump is working but at a reduced output with the BAP trying to offset the weakness? Also the car cold starts ok as well. However, I definitely need to test the BAP.
I have an 06 vert, supercharged (maggie mp112). My check engine light (CEL) came on the other day so I took it to the gm dealer today. They said its a fuel issue, banks 1 and 2 are running lean, hence the CEL. An FYI the pod fuel gauge says 44 psi (it should be 58-60). Further, the GM tech said its a tune issue, and that a speciality shop tuner should be able to tune for the boost a pump (BAP) to increase fuel pressure? Later in the day I took the car to a speciality shop and the tech their said its not a tune issue, rather its a fuel pump problem (needs replacing). He never even tested the BAP? Question I have do I replace the fuel pump, the BAP, or get a tune?? How do I hone in on this problem to determine what the culprit is?
Test the BAP's Hobb switch before replacing the pump:
Test the voltage at the BAP's hot, it should be around 12-13 volts. Jump the hobb switch with a wire and test the voltage at the BAP's hot. If the hobb switch is working, voltage should be around 17 and the BAP is doing it's job. If the voltage remains 12-13, then I would start by replacing the hobb switch. If no voltage, the car will not start.
The hobb switch is hooked up to a vacuum source so once boost reaches 3 psi. it kicks in raising voltage to the fuel pump. Some BAP's have an adjustment ****, if yours does make sure it is adjusted to installers spec.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Apr 12, 2016 at 11:29 AM.
I am new to forced induction so not very familiar with terms such as hobb switch? Where would I access this and how to jump it? I am sure this is a good idea.
I am new to forced induction so not very familiar with terms such as hobb switch? Where would I access this and how to jump it? I am sure this is a good idea.
Hobb switch is also called a vacuum pressure switch. I do not have Maggie, but an A&A centri kit installed by A&A corvette. They used a "T" fitting to access a vacuum source from the brake booster. So I looked for a vacuum line coming off a "T" just below my brake booster. I pulled that line up slowly and the Hobb switch was tucked below the front driver fender and firewall. There will be a vacuum line hooked up to the hobb switch and two wires. I just used a short wire to jump the two wires.
To access the BAP hot, I removed the drivers rear tire and inner fender and the BAP was behind the inner fender.
This is how my BAP was installed, your installer might have the location of the hobb switch and BAP elsewhere. Ask them to save time.
Look up Kenne Bell BAP for diagrams and info.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Apr 12, 2016 at 11:47 AM.
Thank you Mike I appreciate that explanation makes much more sense now. I will have to have a look now. Unfortunately I am twice removed as an owner from the install. Thanks again.