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Harmonic balancer wont install deep enough

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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 12:57 PM
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Default Harmonic balancer wont install deep enough

Hey guys, installing an ati balancer, and running into some issues. I have an install tool and started drawing the balancer on the crank. The first 90% of it pressed on with some decent resistance on the wrench but went on nicely. But now it's about 1/8" away from lining up to the other pullies and the install tool just stopped dead in its tracks. It won't draw the pulley on anymore. I'm wondering if this is common and whether I should install the crank bolt and sinch it down to about 240ft-lbs to see if it draws the pulley the rest of the way on...any thoughts?
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:02 PM
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it does not line up with the end of the crank
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:05 PM
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I understand there is a certain hub snout depth...but that aside it's about an 1/8" from lining up from the other pullies. I can only get so much torque on the install tool with an open end wrench, that's why I'm wondering if torqueing down the crank bolt will draw it on the rest of the way.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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Is the face of the crank still below the surface of the HB? It should not be even, as it would not tighten down correctly. I would not use the CS bolt to draw it up, as that could lead to pulling the threads out of the crankshaft end.
I would wait for others to chime in on this one.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:14 PM
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You should be using the box end of a wrench as the open end will flex around the tool.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:14 PM
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Yes the face of the crank is still below the hub face of the damper.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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When I take the install tool out and run the ARP bolt in it, there seems to be allot of engagement on the threads (it turns in quite a bit). So I'm not hugely concerned about pulling the threads, but obviously it's still a concern.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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Have you put a belt on it to confirm? They are really hard to judge by eye
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:29 PM
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Hey schpenxel, I haven't tried that but I will.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:30 PM
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I also thought about running a straight edge from the tensioner up top down to the crank pulley
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:30 PM
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yeah, I mean it doesn't have to be fully on, but putting it on an accessory or two will make it easier to see where it's at
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Hittinboost
I also thought about running a straight edge from the tensioner up top down to the crank pulley
can't hurt. anything to check it vs. trying to eyeball it. laser alignment tool is best but not the only way to make sure it's in the ballpark
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:42 PM
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Put the ac belt on...it looks really really close. Think I'm gonna torque the crank bolt down and see where I'm at.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:44 PM
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Good deal. Another guy in the FI forum had the same issue when installing an IW balancer and thought he didn't get it on all the way.. but it was, so I bet you're fine

What kind of install tool are you using?
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:46 PM
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Summit install tool for LS engines...nice tool has a bearing on the end for the damper hub.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900135
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:52 PM
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Gotcha, yeah that's the one I used too, it's a nice piece
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Hittinboost
When I take the install tool out and run the ARP bolt in it, there seems to be allot of engagement on the threads (it turns in quite a bit). So I'm not hugely concerned about pulling the threads, but obviously it's still a concern.
Don't forget the assembly lube that APR packages.
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To Harmonic balancer wont install deep enough

Old Apr 28, 2016 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by extrapilot
Don't forget the assembly lube that APR packages.
Good looking out!
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 02:28 PM
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$0.10 says it's on tight... (right Sammy?)
Originally Posted by Hittinboost
Good looking out!

Last edited by Chiselchst; Apr 28, 2016 at 02:29 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Hittinboost
I understand there is a certain hub snout depth...but that aside it's about an 1/8" from lining up from the other pullies. I can only get so much torque on the install tool with an open end wrench, that's why I'm wondering if torqueing down the crank bolt will draw it on the rest of the way.
if your within an 1/8" you have gone as far as your tool is designed to go.torque to 240 factory spec with your old bolt. remove and replace with new ARP

Last edited by irok; Apr 29, 2016 at 10:51 AM.
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