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Hey guys, installing an ati balancer, and running into some issues. I have an install tool and started drawing the balancer on the crank. The first 90% of it pressed on with some decent resistance on the wrench but went on nicely. But now it's about 1/8" away from lining up to the other pullies and the install tool just stopped dead in its tracks. It won't draw the pulley on anymore. I'm wondering if this is common and whether I should install the crank bolt and sinch it down to about 240ft-lbs to see if it draws the pulley the rest of the way on...any thoughts?
I understand there is a certain hub snout depth...but that aside it's about an 1/8" from lining up from the other pullies. I can only get so much torque on the install tool with an open end wrench, that's why I'm wondering if torqueing down the crank bolt will draw it on the rest of the way.
Is the face of the crank still below the surface of the HB? It should not be even, as it would not tighten down correctly. I would not use the CS bolt to draw it up, as that could lead to pulling the threads out of the crankshaft end.
I would wait for others to chime in on this one.
When I take the install tool out and run the ARP bolt in it, there seems to be allot of engagement on the threads (it turns in quite a bit). So I'm not hugely concerned about pulling the threads, but obviously it's still a concern.
Good deal. Another guy in the FI forum had the same issue when installing an IW balancer and thought he didn't get it on all the way.. but it was, so I bet you're fine
When I take the install tool out and run the ARP bolt in it, there seems to be allot of engagement on the threads (it turns in quite a bit). So I'm not hugely concerned about pulling the threads, but obviously it's still a concern.
I understand there is a certain hub snout depth...but that aside it's about an 1/8" from lining up from the other pullies. I can only get so much torque on the install tool with an open end wrench, that's why I'm wondering if torqueing down the crank bolt will draw it on the rest of the way.
if your within an 1/8" you have gone as far as your tool is designed to go.torque to 240 factory spec with your old bolt. remove and replace with new ARP