I have an Eforce on my C6 coupe and it is constantly running H2O at 225 degrees and higher. Is this normal and if not what can be done?

Thanks

 

Upgraded fans helped a lot on my twin turbo car.

 

That would make me nervous
NSF

 

start with a DeWitts radiator, water wetter, is it inter cooled? oil cooler will help, HEAT SOAK, that's the problem with Maggie's or any roots type blower mounted on top of the motor

 

Meth kit with 50/50 mix.

The problem is the TVS-2300 is throwing off a lot of heat during air compression to heat the air up that way going into the motor, the cooler is the water type in the blower that can only do so much to cool the air back down, and short of a meth kit that water in the mist cools the air back down isntead, your chasing your tail.

As for the other 50% being meth, this helps to maintain the needed octane rating in the fuel so you don't get a knock problem as well.

So note only will the meth kit help to keep the motor cool, but the actual meth being added will allow you to push the timing farther to pick up more power as well.

As for meth mix, local chemical supply store to pick up 100% meth for about $8 a gallon, grocery store to pick up distilled water to mix with the meth and you looking at your meth mix only being about $4 a gallon. As for meth mix, unless you are tracking 100% of the time, a tank full of meth (2.5 gallons) will last you several weeks on the road isntead.

And since you have one gallon containers from the distilled water (or a old window washer fluid gallon jug since its a 25/70 meth mix instead), you can keep a gallon of meth mix in the back chubby if you need to add more mix to your meth reserve tank during a road trip isntead.

 

Hello,

Try a couple of bottles of water wetter! Water wetter helped a lot in my 1972 Corvette with 454.

Douglas in Green Bay

 

Where???

In the motor block radiator, or in the water inter cooler system isntead.

Again, the TVS-2300 uses a water inter cooler radiators inside the blower to try to pull the heat off the charged air, and the water is pumped to a front of car radiator in the noise to try to cool the water back off again.



So once the water in the inter cooler system gets hot, then its cooling effectiveness is greatly reduced until it can get the water cool again via the front noise mounted radiator heat transfer. Until such time, the engine is just sucking in hot air through the super charger internal inter coolers to cause the engine to heat up instead.

This is the trade off from a roots TVS charger that give boost from idle up, verses a centrifugal super charger that comes on strong around mid range instead, but runs the compressed air through a air cooler in the front of the car to cool the air that way instead. And short of running a A/C type system to cool the water off faster for the inter coooler system, a meth kits does the trick nicely instead.

Truth is, with any kind of boost and not running fuel with more octane rating that is needed, you need a safety margin for octane increase in place, or you chance detonation in the cylinders isntead.

Hence boost goes up, you need a higher octane rating. Heat goes up, you need a higher octane rating. More than normal oil in the cylinders that will lower the octane rating, you need a higher fuel octane rating as well.

Then take fuel alone, which you run the boosted engine on the richer side, since the added fuel is cooling itself as well.

So a meth kit to increase the octane rating, and cools the air going into the engine, which has so many advantages it not funny. No only can you get about a 15% increase in power with the same amount of boost pressure since you can run the car leaner and push the timing more, added power from the water turning to steam on the down stroke, but with the boost now not heat soaking the engine as well, so you can maintain that 15% increase in power hit after hit of boost isntead.

With a 2 bar system (less than 15psi boost), it's border line if you don't mind the heat soak and loss of power that comes with the heat soak from a TVS system, and when you get into 3 bar system (30lbs of boost), meth kit is mandatory since you just about pushing the TVS-2300 to the max of what is can create in constant boost volume isntead.

Simply, for a 650hp ls motor or lower, the TVS-2300 with it power from idle up, are ideal. The downfall is the heat soak that come with the water exchange inter cooler system on them, and the kits should have come with a meth kit from the start instead.

P.S, forget to add that the water mist in the air intake stream from the meth kits creates increases power during the burn, as well as keep the cylinder and valves clean by the steam effect it creates when the fuel is ignited as well. So not only are you gaining power, keeping the temps down on the boosted motor, but keeping the cylinder and valves clean with a meth kit too.

 

The ops post is a bit vague but it seems he is talking about engine coolant temps. I never had high temps with my eforce even when I had the stock rad and fans. The only changes at first were a 160 stat and better fan settings. Not enough info on mods to really try and help.

As far as IAT temps go, water/meth helps a bit, and is a good add but doesn't make miracles with temps on an eforce. Then again, unless going to the track and doing back to back runs, IATS are not that big a deal.

 

Hello again,

To Clarify, add the water wetter to the radiator. Water Wetter increases the capacity of the cooling system. By increasing the efficiency of the radiator fluids ability to transfer heat to the radiator. The car will run cooler and that will increase the range that the car can operate in extreme temperatures.

Douglas in Green Bay

 

I say run it in both the radiator and intercooler. That's what I did with my Avalanche that had an MP112 on it.