OK, I have seen overheating or heat concerns from threads going back several years but not any actual data.

I dont know my fan settings and what thermostat I have. I have a tech2 if that can tell me the settings?

The thing is that in only 80 degree weather in traffic the car runs at 235 to 240 degrees and then the A/C begins to blow hot air, till I get moving again.
I didnt install the eforce but assuming that the heat exchanger for the intercooler is in front of the radiator?

Is this blocking airflow?

I read a few things that caught my eye but the writers discussed them as if everyone knew exactly what they were talking about:

1: moving the radiator forward?

2: cutting some notch in the bumper?

3: hood vent which I'm totally going to do

4: Dewitts radiator.

5: Electric water pump? I had the dewitts and meziere electric pump on my c5 magcharger and it made a 20 degree difference even if high revs low speeds. Can I expect this result on the C6?

For now, Has anyone actually found that the A/C stopped working in traffic with the Eforce, or is my A/C in need of service?
It works very well when moving.

I saw some custom fan/shrouds from dewitts in other posts but cant find again.

Can anyone point me to a couple of links that would be helpful?
Especially for moving the radiator forward a bit or free mods to increase airflow.

I know this has been gone over before but if anyone ha a good setup in the NYC area that has been tested please let me know about it.

Thanks for your time.

 

Can't help but I suggest you also ask in the C6 Forced Induction Forum. They have probably seen this before. Good luck.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-nitrous-123/

 

I would first check to make sure your cooling fan is even working. Even with the warm running forced induction engines, that seems to be a bit hot for 80 degrees in traffic.

 

Ditto, with either the tech II, or just let the car idle and turn the A/C on full blast, make sure that the radiator fan is coming on.
Note, when you are checking to make sure that the radiator fan is coming on, get under the car to make sure you did not such up a plastic bag in front of the heat exchanger/radiator to block the air flow through it via the front of the them.

If it is not, then double check the radiator fan connector just on the bolt side of the radiator passenger side to make sure that the connector is not burnt/melted.

The plug hanging off to the right connects to the back of the radiator, and its the top plug that you are going to disconnect to check it to make sure it not melted if the radiator is not coming on.





If the top connector is fine, then double check the connector at the PWM (silver box in the first photo) to make sure it not burnt/melted as well.

As for changing the fan temp setting, at the temps you are reaching, the Fan should be close to full blast anyways.






Now on the TVS-2300,

It has internal water cooler coils in the unit that the air is drawn through to cool the air off,

But when the intercooler water gets hot, it has to be cooled off via the heat exchanger in front of the both the engine radiator, and the A/C cooler just in front of the engine radiator.

Skip down to page 30, photo 133 to see the three stacked in front of each other.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/.../1000/1590.pdf

So step 1 on the TVS-2300, make sure that the water pump for the unit is working and moving water.

Step 2, add water wetter to both the radiator coolant and to the TVS water cooler coolant as well.

Step 3, have someone double check the tune on the car!!!!! Granted that the car will want to run lean at idle, but under WOT on booster, fuel is cooling, and if it running too lean for boost, going to cause the engine to run way too hot instead.


Step 4, you did not say which HP kit you have installed, but let just call it the 657hp kit. Even with the TVS under-spun for only 657hp, after a couple of boost heats hits, the TVS will be putting out a lot of heat even under spun that much, and it's during the initial booth cycle that you really need to keep the heat down instead. Short version here, you want to add a Meth kit!!!

Pros on the meth kit, the 50% water really, really lowers the TVS boost compression heat, and keeps it down. Also, when the water turns to steam at ignition in the cylinders, you gain more power on the down stroke on the pistols. Also, with the steam effect, it keeps the cylinders clean. As for the other 50% meth in the mix, huge-huge safety margin to keep the engine from having detonation problems to distroy an engine, and since you now have the needed Octane boost safety margin in play, allows you to push the timing to pick up even more HP.


The cons, a Store bought meth kit is going to run you about $1K to have installed with the needed tune, and if just street driving, will go though about a gallon of meth mix a week if your are running the motor hard (meth mix will run you around $3 to make, so forget even trying to buy pre-mix at over $30 a gallon shipped to you instead).

So on that note, going with a Dewitt, dual fan, and new controller will run you are grand and help to lower the temps a touch, or you can just resolve the problem at the source instead with a meth kit, and pick up so more power instead.
Note, as the motor heats up after your first boost now, you are loosing HP on sequential boost hits instead. So not only are you picking up HP with the Meth kit to begin with, but keeping the gained HP hit after hit via keep the motor temp temp ( via boot heat temps) in check as well.

 

Need to check the easy things first:

Look for debris in front of HX, ac condensor and between the ac condensor and radiator. Clean out if needed. ECM turns AC off once temp gets that high.

Check the connector on the fan shroud that goes down to the control module. Connectors burn up all the time there. Bad connector may work when cool but stop working when hot. Connector is in middle of fan shroud right side.

Search for "fan connector" in C6 section.

Not familiar with eforce HX's and fan setup.

DJ

 

The A/C is stopping because the engine temps are too high. Nothing to do with the eforce. Some of the additions you mention are nice, but none of them should be needed.

As mentioned... check....
Fans working
Blockage of rad from debris
Air in system
Themostat temp and fan settings.

If the cooling system is in good order, you should have no heat problems due to the eforce itself. Centri blowers cause more issues because they place a large intercooler, blocking a large area or the rad. The eforce intercooler is small, and doesn't give the same issues.

 

DeWitts RAD with internal oil cooler, water wetter, dual spal fans

 

oh but putting a big heat pump right on top of the engine doesn't create heat issues, OH brother! why do you think they came up with blower mounted to the side off the motor, then why does every body use them and only a few have Maggie types?

 

As usual just jump in everywhere with stupid comments. Tons of people run PD blowers. Do they run higher IATS? Yes. Do they cause high coolant temps? No they don't.
Have you owned an eforce in a vette? I have and it ran cooler than it does with a centri on it. Real world experience not internet BS.

 

Cooling system totally stock last summer in Texas with E-Force and never had AC shut off nor saw temps past 220. Only on an HPDE day did I see the kinda of temps the OP is stating. I did put a LG Supercool rad on last month for added protection. Average temp drop about 10-15 degrees. As most others have said, you have something else going on for you to see high temps in only 80 degree weather.

 

Thanks Nick, yeah I just spent some time searching old threads and I found allot of good stuff. Still doesnt hurt to see if any new ideas though.

 

Thanks for this. The motor was out and rebuilt over the Winter but I cant assume they cleaned the radiator. Ill check the basics first.
actually I found some of your guys old threads and learned allot. I forget that the C6 has already been modifeid for a decade but it is 'new' to me! That big single fan and shroud from dewitts is appealing and seems like it will work well.
The thing is that Im getting traffic temps like you reported on 100degree plus days when it is only 80 degrees ambient here.

 

OEM's use the PD superchargers and that says to me that makes them an excellent choice. Im happy to have a supercharger period.
Yep PD blowers of course dont really add to engine temps, i meant to say the whole setup, (figured the heat exchanger was restricting airflow) but now that I know the heat exchanger is not so big then Im not so concerned with it. I should have searched old threads too.
I definately have a problem though and this is a near daily driver.

 

Yes I agree. Im going to remove the shroud today and have a look.

 

One thing...anyone have electric water pump?

I had the Meziere on my C5 maggie z06 and dewitts that ran 20 degrees cooler than OEM. I was younger then and beat the snot out of the car too.
The flow numbers at idle for the meziere electric pump are way better than stock belt driven pump until the higher rev range.
My theory is also that will take some strain off of the serpentine belt as well and maybe a little more throttle response.
Probably a thread on this too somewhere

Ill let yall know what I find

 

Wow, thanks very much for this...also reminding me to check the basics step by step.

 

I've never had an issue with high engine temps and my E-Force until my connector melted. Some of Edelbrock's tunes have the fans set to run at 100% which derate the connector causing it to melt.

 

Dewitts sells brushless fan for your car much more powerful fan than what you have. Much better than the dual spal. They use these on new corvette c7.

 

Well...went out with my wife today and again at only 80 degrees the car was hot but A/C also sporadic hot cold...
Got home pulled off the top cover to the radiator and condenser...

Full of leaves, gunk and crap on both the radiator AND condenser.
Now I didnt suspect this since only a couple of months ago I had a new motor put in.
I cant say for sure that the shop left these parts dirty and clogged but also dont see how this can happen in a couple of months.

Regardless, Im betting that a cleaning will make huge improvement.
The factory fan doesnt seal very well to the radiator either unless some weatherstrip is lost.
I guess it all needs to come out to clean properly, even the oil cooler and ac lines disconnected i guess.

Thanks very much guys I will be making some improvements while I have it apart!

 

It can happen quite fast...