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My cooling fan stop working and I got a CEL, after unplugging the connector I saw that the right inside pin had melted.. now my question is does GM have some sort of free replacement for this at the dealer even if my c6 is out of warranty? If not where should I buy the replacement plug/pins? My fan is on stock settings by the way
I can't answer your question but with the frequency I see these threads popping up, a thought crossed my mind:
I wonder if a ceramic connector is available, like what you can buy to replace headlight connectors. I would think that would be the perfect solution. Maybe a headlight connector set could be adapted to work? Of course then the question becomes: Is the wiring the next weak link so you will melt the wiring instead of the connector?
Last edited by BadAV; May 31, 2016 at 07:41 AM.
Reason: add info
My cooling fan stop working and I got a CEL, after unplugging the connector I saw that the right inside pin had melted.. now my question is does GM have some sort of free replacement for this at the dealer even if my c6 is out of warranty? If not where should I buy the replacement plug/pins? My fan is on stock settings by the way
Good morning LuckyVette,
I’m sorry to hear about these concerns you’ve been experiencing with your cooling fan. While I cannot guarantee a specific outcome, I would be happy to help facilitate a service appointment so that you can explore all possible options with your preferred dealer. If this is of interest, please follow up with me by private message.
My cooling fan stop working and I got a CEL, after unplugging the connector I saw that the right inside pin had melted.. now my question is does GM have some sort of free replacement for this at the dealer even if my c6 is out of warranty? If not where should I buy the replacement plug/pins? My fan is on stock settings by the way
Or, you can just use heat shrink and solder the wires pairs together isntead.
But if you have OEM fan settings, and burnt the connector up, then you have problems down with the radiator fan instead. Reach in and spin the fan by hand, and make sure that it free wheel smoothly and easily. If it does not and has as slight binding to it, then may need to pull the raditor fan motor apart to clean and check the motor bearings. Hence as the bearings dry out, this cause more voltage to be needed to turn the motor, and what melts the connector.
Most of the time, it just the bearings need to be re-greased, but if they are shot, then can be replaced for a few dollars isntead (so you don't have to by a whole new radiator motor isntead.
Be aware that the GM replacement connector has smaller gauge wires than the Corvette OEM. After my original died and I replaced it with the GM one and it died, I just clipped the offending wire from both sides of the connector and bypassed it completely. It's been that way for at least 5 years and 50K miles.
I'm not saying that's the best solution, but it's working for me.
Be aware that the GM replacement connector has smaller gauge wires than the Corvette OEM. After my original died and I replaced it with the GM one and it died, I just clipped the offending wire from both sides of the connector and bypassed it completely. It's been that way for at least 5 years and 50K miles.
I'm not saying that's the best solution, but it's working for me.
You can buy the bare connector and keep the wire size the same. It sounds like you guys tried to use a pigtail instead, which probably did come with smaller wiring.
Regardless... that connector is obviously being pushed to it's limit, so a better solution is probably not a bad idea anyways if you're having issues
Last edited by schpenxel; Jun 1, 2016 at 08:22 AM.
You can buy the bare connector and keep the wire size the same. It sounds like you guys tried to use a pigtail instead, which probably did come with smaller wiring.
Regardless... that connector is obviously being pushed to it's limit, so a better solution is probably not a bad idea anyways if you're having issues
When I went to the dealer for a replacement when the original died, the over-priced pigtail was all that they offered. I'd sure like a better solution, so I don't have to keep cutting and re-splicing the bad wire every time I need to remove the connection, but obviously the OEM connector is not the best choice. I suspect water resistant would be a major consideration, but maybe just more contact area on the connector pins would suffice. The problem with buying the bare connector is running out of length of wiring to install new pins.
Maybe if I remember in advance of a planned removal, I'll check into this deeper. It's the remembering part that usually fails me.
Yeah.. you are likely right about the length of wire.. I remember that being a tight one to get back together even without cutting any off to install new pins..