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My 2009 Z had a fuel pump failure at 50k miles. Pump is $500 plus 11 hours labor. This is nuts, poor design. I've had a lot of cars over 48 years of driving, including 4 vettes and I don't remember a fuel pump failure. I've had a lot of problems with this car. Very disappointed. Just venting.
11 hours labor is robbery. It takes a few hours at most. I literally dropped the entire drivetrain, changed the clutch and put it back together, on the ground, without a lift, in 12 hours...
GM says you have to drop the transmission to get to the tank. That is not true--a ton of time can be saved by not dropping the tank and just pulling it out with everything still in place.
Where are you located?
Last edited by schpenxel; Jun 13, 2016 at 07:04 PM.
Pump can be purchased elsewhere for much cheaper if you are willing to wait a week to get it shipped to you. They also include a new level sensor. $328
My 2009 Z had a fuel pump failure at 50k miles. Pump is $500 plus 11 hours labor. This is nuts, poor design. I've had a lot of cars over 48 years of driving, including 4 vettes and I don't remember a fuel pump failure. I've had a lot of problems with this car. Very disappointed. Just venting.
Tom
We have owned three new Corvettes (2001, then 2006, now 2009) that we drive a lot but do not abuse. They have been the three most unreliable cars I've owned in 50+ years of driving, and each new one has been more problematic than the previous.
We stopped buying GM family cars 30 years ago and it was the best decision we ever made. I'd be happy to pay another $5k for a Corvette that wouldn't keep breaking but that's not the way GM plays the game.
My 2009 Z had a fuel pump failure at 50k miles. Pump is $500 plus 11 hours labor. This is nuts, poor design. I've had a lot of cars over 48 years of driving, including 4 vettes and I don't remember a fuel pump failure. I've had a lot of problems with this car. Very disappointed. Just venting.
Tom
Only 50K on the car, and something is off for the fuel pump to go out that early.
Are you sure that its not just the relay in the engine fuse box going south the problem instead.
If the fuel pump in the drivers tank has really gone bad, got to ask how much of the cars life did it spend close to empty being driving around. I bring this up, since the fuel in the drivers tank works to cool the fuel pump so it does not over heat; unless someone spent most of the time driving the car around with 1/8 of a tank or less of fuel in it instead.
I paid $300 for the pump with a new sender, and then $450 for the labor to change it when I first got my car and the sender was bad.
Then recently while they were dropping the tank to do other work, I had them change it again to a Walbro 450 I got for $100. I should have just done that the first time. Would have been about $150 less overall and flows a ton more.
Last edited by jesse82nc; Jun 14, 2016 at 08:46 AM.
Mine made it over 150K and 6 months of having a BAP "on" non stop. Still worked too.. but had drivetrain out and wanted Z06 style pump anyways so I swapped it
I just worked on mine that has an automatic. Before you do anything else, pop open the relay box located in the engine bay atop the passenger wheel well. The relay is #54 and the 20 amp fuse (fuel system) is right there near it. The inside cover of the relay box is a map of the fuses and relays. Check the fuse to make sure it is not blown. There is another thread out there with good pictures and more details than my 2 cents. Good luck. HRP
Get a fuel rail pressure reading with the car idling and reved up a few times, then either remove your fuel pump relay and jump it out*, or swap your relay with another same relay number in the fuse block, and take another fuel pump pressure reading with the car idling again.
* How to jump out the relay,
The schrader valve for the fuel rail to add a pressure gauge in on the front drivers side.
Now rev the car up, and check the pressure again for a major drop in pressure at the rail.
This will weed out if the problem is at the fuse box with either a bad fuel pump relay, or even the prongs that the relay plugs into. Hence could be the clip prongs that the relay plugs into are bent open in the fuse box or corroded, and the reason that relay is having problems getting enough power to the fuel pump instead.
If the problem is the fuse block connectors itself, you can pull the fuse block upper section apart to correct the problem, verses having to replace it instead.
Yea, but that is only the GM dealer side for dealer work, and if he needs a fuel pump to install himself, plenty of vendors still have the AC Delco unit in stock isntead.
Hence why the dealers don't just order from them since it the same units, instead of having vets sitting around in the shops, is still mystery.
So instead of just spending the extra $50 for the dealers to order them them in from their for warranty work, it better to have a pissed owner's vet in the shop collecting dust un-driven instead.
Hence the steering gear rack game all over again, and GM finally just getting to the point that there were installing re-manufactured steering racks in the car for warranty service instead.
We have owned three new Corvettes (2001, then 2006, now 2009) that we drive a lot but do not abuse. They have been the three most unreliable cars I've owned in 50+ years of driving, and each new one has been more problematic than the previous.
We stopped buying GM family cars 30 years ago and it was the best decision we ever made. I'd be happy to pay another $5k for a Corvette that wouldn't keep breaking but that's not the way GM plays the game.
Lol same here, haven't bought a GM product (except for the vettes) in 35 years. Last one was a Scottsdale to haul my boat around. Everything's been Honda, Toyota and Lexus. But don't get me started on cost of parts for the Lexus ...
Got car back Friday (paid dealership $2700). Ran fine. Drove home 3 miles. Drove 10 miles to church over weekend. Went out today and same problem, won't start.
I'm going to try and take it back to shop tomorrow. Do you think they misdiagnosed the problem to begin with? The new fuel pump would not fail after 13 miles.
I'm going to try and take it back to shop tomorrow. Do you think they misdiagnosed the problem to begin with? The new fuel pump would not fail after 13 miles.
There has been a few fuels pumps replaced that didn't need to be.
More than likely a electrical power issue to the pump.
The bulk head connection on the passenger side firewall was one of the issues with corroded/burnt connection pins.
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