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Front spring replacing

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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 02:27 PM
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Default Front spring replacing

ok I've seen the you tube vids. I think I've got it. but a couple Q's. spring looks the same left and right so I'm guessing there is no left/right hand side? Now I know every body loves to lower them, I'd like to leave mine the way it is, for lack of a better word. Do I just measure the length of the lowering bolts and just put it back in that way or should I be looking in my helms manuals for a set-up procedure?

Last edited by CMY SIX; Jun 15, 2016 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 03:24 PM
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Not sure on the l & r. You can measure bolt length to get the height close. Some measure from the ground to the wheel well, but I believe a more consistent way is to measure from the top or bottom of the center cap to the wheel well. This takes uneven floor and tire pressure out of the equation.
You will have to put the clamps on the spring loose, put wheels on and drop the car down on a cpl 2x8s. This will compress the spring so the rubber bushing line up with the clamps. Tighten clamps while front end is on the ground.

Last edited by Curt D; Jun 15, 2016 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CMY SIX
ok I've seen the you tube vids. I think I've got it. but a couple Q's. spring looks the same left and right so I'm guessing there is no left/right hand side? Now I know every body loves to lower them, I'd like to leave mine the way it is, for lack of a better word. Do I just measure the length of the lowering bolts and just put it back in that way or should I be looking in my helms manuals for a set-up procedure?
Whenever I did mine, the stock spring had an obvious bow to it so I put the new one in the same way (albeit the z06 one I put in was bowed much less).

As far as the ride height adjustment I just measured the height from the ground to the middle of the fender before and then did the same when I was done. Making sure the same amount of threads were above the spring put me pretty close to my before measurements so that's how I left it.

Last edited by sevinn; Jun 15, 2016 at 04:08 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 10:02 AM
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Different springs will still require different height adjustments but as mentioned using the adjuster lengths that the car started off with is always a good idea (remember each side of the spring might have been adjusted to a different height due to weight distribution)

Fine adjustment should be done with the swaybar disconnected and the suspension unloaded. After adjusting drive it a bit around the block with the sway still disconnected to get everything to settle out before rechecking the ride height. Alternatively you could drive around you driveway with wood boards put into place in order to create bumps to get the car to settle out.

Also I had issues with my spring adjusters moving so I purchased some stainless jam nuts and nordlocks which worked well to keep everything in place - IIRC its M14x2

Good luck!

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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 05:58 PM
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"...Also I had issues with my spring adjusters moving so I purchased some stainless jam nuts and nordlocks which worked well to keep everything in place ... ."

Just a question, do spring adjusters normally move? I can't recall reading/hearing that before.
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CMY SIX
ok I've seen the you tube vids. I think I've got it. but a couple Q's. spring looks the same left and right so I'm guessing there is no left/right hand side? Now I know every body loves to lower them, I'd like to leave mine the way it is, for lack of a better word. Do I just measure the length of the lowering bolts and just put it back in that way or should I be looking in my helms manuals for a set-up procedure?
Here's the ride height specs for 2009 and 2010. You'll notice that the 2010 specs are slightly different, they changed several times during the years of production.
More importantly, the 2010 specs include numbers for measuring from the pavement to the top of the wheel well arches. That's much easier to do than the "Trim Height" system which requires an alignment rack, a special GM measuring tool, and a team of monkeys to use it all.

If you measure out at the fenders, each turn of the adjustment bolt will raise/lower the fender edge about 1/8". After adjustment, the car will be up in the air like a monster truck. But a couple of hundred miles of driving will make everything settle down to a more permanent position, then you can re-measure and re-adjust if needed. When finished, get an alignment and enjoy.

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Last edited by Gearhead Jim; Jun 16, 2016 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by AORoads
"...Also I had issues with my spring adjusters moving so I purchased some stainless jam nuts and nordlocks which worked well to keep everything in place ... ."

Just a question, do spring adjusters normally move? I can't recall reading/hearing that before.
yes - the factory style ones less so than aftermarket, but Ive noticed that both types can move around

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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 07:17 AM
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I'll be darned! That's new news. Thanks for the info.
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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My problem has been the opposite- getting the factory adjusters to move at all. Sometimes requires heavy doses of PB Blaster, tapping, more PB and drive for a couple of days, etc.

If I adjusted them more often than every 2-3 years, results might be different.
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