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Maximizer/obx header back system

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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 02:50 PM
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Default Maximizer/obx header back system

Basically, is it worth it, how much for a shop to install, and how have they worn as time has progressed, us maybe dynos? Also any fitment issues?
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 04:26 PM
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I have OBX long tubes on my car for over a year. fit good and no wear issues due to age.
I feel it was definitely worth the savings.
The car is supercharged / daily driver.
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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The tubing is fine, but the hardware sucks (gasket, clamps, and bolts are all *****).

So from the start, new bolts and and hardware since you don't want to use these units that come with the kit).

Next, the heat from the headers is going to kill the starter solenoid, so you need a starter heat sheild ($80), installed around the starter (labor costs).


From there, it takes a little longer to do the X pipe correctly.

Also get the High flow catted kit, since it only robs of you about 3hp total, but keeps the car from stinking of un-burnt fuel at every stop light isntead.

So, You have to first install the headers, then dry fit install the X pipe parts with muffler, do some tack welds on the X pipe parts to hold the X pipe together, then pull the muffler and X pipe, and weld the X pipe parts all together. Hence you just run with all the extra band clamps instead of welding the X piece and cats together, but it going to leak at these connection after a while; so best to weld all the X piece pieces together isntead.

So in the end, you have the better quality bolts that are bolting the header collector to the X pipe flanges, then have better clamps (or can use the OEM clamps) to bolt the end of the X pipe to the muffler pipes. And again, the first fitted x pipe to get the lengths right, are all welded together so it one solid welded piece (end of cats to start of X pipe).

The front section band clamps right after the cats is what you are eliminating, and welding this sections together, isntead of using band clamps there.




Lastly, once the system is in place (rear O2 sensor not used, and don't forget that you will need extension cables for the front 02 sensors that will be used), you need to take the car down to have it re-tuned, and the rear 02 sensors turned off in the ECM.

As for the re-tune, your going to pick up about 15hp over the stock tune alone (if you did not have headers in play), and then another 25'ish Hp with the headers and tune as well.


The headers will produce the extra 25'ish HP with the re-tune due to the way that long tube header collectors scavenge exhaust gases better than the stock OEM exhaust manifold



So Catted kit is around $800 , will need new hardware and front O2 extension cable ($100), a Dyno tune once the system is done ($400), and then it comes down to what a shop is going to charge you to install the kit, including welding the cats to the x pipe, isntead of using clamps there.


As for shop price, will need to check around, since some may only want a few hundred, while other much more when you mention that is gong to be installed on a vet isntead (way more liability working on a vet in the first place if they screw something up and have to fix it after the fact).
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 05:22 PM
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Thank you guys very much and yeah i am lucky to have east coast super chargers and tune time in close vicinty to where i live. They quoted me 550 for the dyno and the 800$ headers and cats aint bad. I jusy hope the labor isnt too much i only have 2000$ to finish her. I already have a Diablosport tuner, i may just log with that instead. After all i heard Diablew does a great job.
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