Need help choosing rotors





BTW, welcome to the forum.
Last edited by HOXXOH; Jul 2, 2016 at 06:15 PM.
http://www.tpsmotorsports.com/corvet...ed-rotors.html
http://www.tpsmotorsports.com/corvet...ed-rotors.html
The OP should not consider these as he has a Z51 optioned car, which have larger diameter rotors.
http://www.tpsmotorsports.com/corvet...otted-z51.html
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
There are also ACDelco "Original Equipment" front rotors, GM P/N 89060328, (ACDelco P/N 1770924) for $86.79.
Both are listed for use with Z51 (J55) heavy-duty brakes.
Has anybody compared these two rotors in person? Are they actually different?
To note, if you get the oem rotors, there is no left or right hand sides to the rotors. Hence the veins all all angled like they are all left hand side rotors isntead.

Two piece rotors are better if you are pushing the car hard instead.
Also, before you call the rotor's toasted, see if there is enough metal to just turn the rotors isntead. Yes, drilled rotors can be turned (just not so deep per pass, and they have to make sure to install the dampening belt around the rotors or use the brake lathe has dampening pads so the they don't end with a bunch of chatter.
On mine, I went through brake pads in 30K, but the rotors had enough meat still on them to be turned to get 60K/second set of brake pads out of them instead.
And yes, took the time to paint the rotor, but need to be touched the paint up now that I have some miles on them again.


And yes, running Z51 HD pads, and you can see by the barrels dusting, hence these pads to dust more, but worth it for the initial bite, feed back, and working temps of the pads that they offer isntead.
Lastly, when you do have the rotors off, take the time to adjust the rear brake shoes correctly as well.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ake-issue.html
Last edited by Dano523; Jul 3, 2016 at 11:54 PM.
Last edited by dmoneychris; Jul 5, 2016 at 12:24 PM.
Drilled rotors helps the dust /gassing clear, and allows the rotors to cool due to the added vent holes, but the drilled holes also cause heat stress points that will allow the rotors to crack if they get too hot instead.


So for racing rotors where the heat is going to build up in the rotor, then slotting clears the dust/gassing (what drilled holes do a well), But you don't using any drilled holes so you don't have the cracking placement problem isntead.
Drilled rotors helps the dust /gassing clear, and allows the rotors to cool due to the added vent holes, but the drilled holes also cause heat stress points that will allow the rotors to crack if they get too hot instead.


So for racing rotors where the heat is going to build up in the rotor, then slotting clears the dust/gassing (what drilled holes do a well), But you don't using any drilled holes so you don't have the cracking placement problem isntead.
You bring up some great points Dano. Those were some things I was considering when I decided on the Drilled & Slotted from B.P. (I wasn't planning on racing my car, so that was also a factor) The drilled & slotted had a lot fewer holes than the straight drilled rotors that they offered. The drilled & slotted rotors seemed like they would hold up better than the straight drilled ones. On an equal cross section of rotor there would be a lot less metal holding together the drilled ones.
Last edited by dmoneychris; Jul 6, 2016 at 08:14 AM.














