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08' C6 Won't engage into any gear?

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Old 07-25-2016, 10:32 PM
  #21  
AL_Jazz
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Originally Posted by tsassman
Thanks to everyone for their input. Especially the great you tube video on how to carefully remove the console. I wouldn't of had a clue how to do that without breaking something.
Ok...in the midst of performing this repair and would LOVE to have the link to the video you mentioned... =before I start getting a bigger hammer
Old 07-28-2016, 12:26 PM
  #22  
08velocity
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had the same happen to ours, dropped the midpipe,removed the 1000 bolts on the tunnel plate, and replace nylon grommet,took longer to get the midpipe back up than the actual problem. then just recently shifter did the same thing, got under check the link at the back same thing. ....BUT. .... it uses the same size grommet and way easier. so with all that said. you might want to look under the back at the cable and make sure that one's good to go
Old 09-03-2016, 10:13 AM
  #23  
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Well, I replaced the rear back in July. Replaced the Torque tube in August...and in hind sight should have replaced the front one when the tube was out. Now in Sept I have the center console tore out replacing the front one from the top...
Old 09-03-2016, 10:29 AM
  #24  
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How many miles do these cars have? Should I replace them just to be safe at 40,000 miles? My luck it will break at the worst possible place. These cars are not so well made. My truck has 205,000 miles and has not had any of these little problems. And it gets worked hard and used in all weather. Not babied like my Vettes.
Old 09-03-2016, 10:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by duramaxsky
How many miles do these cars have? Should I replace them just to be safe at 40,000 miles? My luck it will break at the worst possible place. These cars are not so well made. My truck has 205,000 miles and has not had any of these little problems. And it gets worked hard and used in all weather. Not babied like my Vettes.
Mine lasted 11 years at 32,000 miles before the bushing under the console broke.
Old 09-03-2016, 12:46 PM
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Finished...including taking the time to go grab breakfast while going to AutoZone to get DorMan part #14041. It did not take that long and was not that difficult. I did figure something out that worked for me and made it easier.

I took the shifter completely out while it was locked in Park...meaning the shifter was all the way forward and the arm was all the way back. I then put the new grommet on the arm and snapped it into place with a pair of curved jaw needle nose pliers. I then used the same pliers to pull the linkage in to neutral which extended the linkage. I positioned the shifter down into the hole with the arm all the way back and the linkage pulled forward giving me plenty of room to work under it without risking bringing the linkage up too far and breaking it like previous posters have warned. I was able to reach down in the opening with the same curved jaw needle nose and squeeze the linkage socket onto the new grommet previously installed on the ball. It snapped on and then I was able to plug in the shifter, turn on the Acc, depress the brake and allow the shifter to move into neutral matching the current selection at the transmission and the shifter dropped into place with no hassle. Re-assembled everything and it was done. Actual time replacing from start to finish was 45 minutes or so...
Old 06-20-2019, 06:58 PM
  #27  
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Well its my turn for this nag. Many thanks everyone for the pictures & pointers. Any way to do this without going underneath? Al_Jazz I'll try your approach but I just don't see how I can get in there without breaking the cable

Last edited by vidocdevil; 06-20-2019 at 07:00 PM.
Old 06-20-2019, 09:51 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by vidocdevil
Well its my turn for this nag. Many thanks everyone for the pictures & pointers. Any way to do this without going underneath? Al_Jazz I'll try your approach but I just don't see how I can get in there without breaking the cable
. You are not breaking the cable but the sheathing at the front of the attachment point for the cable assembly. It will still work for a while but will let dirt and possibly moisture in to the sheath. Don’t lift it to high.
Old 06-21-2019, 05:40 PM
  #29  
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Thanks for the help. My current issue however is that I can't find a bushing in the recommended "14041 bushing kit" that will attach to the shifter nipple. They're either too loose and slide right off or so tight that they wont go on at all. There's only one in the kit which snaps nicely into the linkage but that one is too tight for the shifter. I tried grinding out the middle a bit but ended up ruining it. Any ideas?

Last edited by vidocdevil; 06-21-2019 at 05:48 PM.
Old 06-21-2019, 06:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by vidocdevil
Thanks for the help. My current issue however is that I can't find a bushing in the recommended "14041 bushing kit" that will attach to the shifter nipple. They're either too loose and slide right off or so tight that they wont go on at all. There's only one in the kit which snaps nicely into the linkage but that one is too tight for the shifter. I tried grinding out the middle a bit but ended up ruining it. Any ideas?
. Dorman kit 14055 also works. I believe it is the smallest one in the package.
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Old 06-22-2019, 11:26 AM
  #31  
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Yep, the Dorman 14055 did the trick! Thanks for the help!
Old 06-23-2019, 01:56 PM
  #32  
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I replaced my whole cable think it was 60 bucks at the dealer. Was a job no doubt but worth the peace of mind. Saint take the exhaust off or the plate. Just snaked it through when pulling the old one out and reattached. It’s do able but was a all day job
Old 06-23-2019, 02:47 PM
  #33  
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Filled up the car at the station Sunday night and guess what? Cable broke. Towed it 40 miles to the dealer and they replaced the cable and I picked up the car on Friday. 62K on the clock.
Old 06-23-2019, 03:28 PM
  #34  
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FYI. The cable doesn’t break, bushings fail.
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Old 06-23-2019, 03:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 2008 Corvette

FYI. The cable doesn’t break, bushings fail.
Exactly ..... when the front cable bushing falls apart, the shifter cable falls off the lever on the bottom of the shifter assembly itself .... and your not going anywhere
Old 06-23-2019, 03:46 PM
  #36  
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When replacing the broken bushing, don't pull up on the cable too hard ... You can break the plastic on the outside of the cable ... then you will need to replace the whole cable assembly (not a fun job).
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Old 06-24-2019, 03:18 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
When replacing the broken bushing, don't pull up on the cable too hard ... You can break the plastic on the outside of the cable ... then you will need to replace the whole cable assembly (not a fun job).
Yep. That’s what happened to me and cussed me to replace the whole cable. Great advice



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