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oil pressure warning

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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 11:08 PM
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From: TU CUM CARI NEW.MEX.
Default oil pressure warning

Drove up to Denver today 400 plus miles, last 100 miles heavy traffic A lot of stop and go driving due to accidents and near 100 degrees Driving 2010 GS 28000 miles 800 miles since oil& filter change.
oil pressure warning in HUD lit up,pressure about the same as always 25 idle 42 at 75mph.could the heat and miles of stop and go cause this. After got here and car cooled A few hours,oil ok. started it and no light.Ideas
Taking to Dealer Monday Thanks 66racer
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 01:21 PM
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At 25 psi, I don't think that any warning would come up, but certainly with stop and go traffic and the heat, pressure will be expected to be at it's lowest.The cruse speed oil pressure seems good, same as mine, but with a base car. Is your car a auto trans? If you have the manual trans, I would think that those pressures would be on the low side, seeing that the dry sump cars have a stronger oiling system than that of the wet sumps.

Last edited by extrapilot; Jul 10, 2016 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by extrapilot
At 25 psi, I don't think that any warning would come up, but certainly with stop and go traffic and the heat, pressure will be expected to be at it's lowest.The cruse speed oil pressure seems good, same as mine, but with a base car. Is your car a auto trans? If you have the manual trans, I would think that those pressures would be on the low side, seeing that the dry sump cars have a stronger oiling system than that of the wet sumps.
Its an automatic. book says 25 idle ,may go lower if hotter than usual,down to 6 lb. and 40 plus running.
Pressure is about the same as always,so can not see the warning lite on,think everything hotter may be it,talking with service man tomorrow,see what he thinks.Thanks for your input 66racer

Last edited by 66racer; Jul 10, 2016 at 04:03 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 66racer
Its an automatic. book says 25 idle ,may go lower if hotter than usual,down to 6 lb. and 40 plus running.
Pressure is about the same as always,so can not see the warning lite on,think everything hotter may be it,talking with service man tomorrow,see what he thinks.Thanks for your input 66racer
Maybe just a glitch with the oil pressure sending unit, as they have had their problems here and there.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by extrapilot
Maybe just a glitch with the oil pressure sending unit, as they have had their problems here and there.
I called 2 Corvette Service managers both both seemed to think A glitch,as you said, as they have had some problems with senders.
So decided to leave it alone for now.Drove 450 miles home yesterday oil pressure normal no light,will keep check on it if it happens again will have sender replaced 66racer
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:54 PM
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Thanks for the update...
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 09:35 PM
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This happened on my truck and it was the sender (L92). Logged it and it was randomly dropping to 0psi and setting off alarms. Replaced sender, no problem since.

Last edited by schpenxel; Jul 14, 2016 at 09:35 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by extrapilot
Maybe just a glitch with the oil pressure sending unit, as they have had their problems here and there.
Why can't Chevrolet fix this oil pressure sending unit problem? Or do they want to? I have a 2005 C6 that had this problem and a 2003 Silverado 5.3 V8 that I had to replace the sending unit on.
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 01:26 AM
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Could be the pressure switch or it's wiring, but in stop and go with the A/C, did you have to notice was the voltage was isntead.


If I had to take a stab at it, dare to guess it's time to pull the charging system cables to clean and make sure that their connectors are tight, since it could have just been a low voltage problem with the A/C cranked that set off the chain of events instead.

If the cable connectors for the entire charging system are clean and tight, then the voltage in long stop and go traffic with the A/C cranked should drop down to about the 14 volt at the lowest mark when you are sitting.

My guess, voltage dropped down to maybe around 13.2 volts, and when things start to glitch (not enough to send the check charging system, but it's enough to cause other systems to start glitching instead).



If you get a chance, break out a multi meter set to DC and start checking your voltages with the car idling, and the A/C off.

Back post of the alternator as your positive source, and then the body of the alternator as the ground source, should have 14.6V.

At the battery terminals, should have 14.5 volts.

From the engine fuse block terminal as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source, should have 14.5 volts.

At the DIC, if the battery is 14.5 volts, then the DCI should read about 14.2~14.3 volts. Now kick the A/C on with the car idling (will hear the radiator fan come on), and the DIC voltage should only drop to about 14.0V at most.

If you are getting lower voltage readings, then post the readings per points, and should be a easy solution to get the charging system back up to factory fresh again.
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 10:22 PM
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From: TU CUM CARI NEW.MEX.
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Could be the pressure switch or it's wiring, but in stop and go with the A/C, did you have to notice was the voltage was isntead.


If I had to take a stab at it, dare to guess it's time to pull the charging system cables to clean and make sure that their connectors are tight, since it could have just been a low voltage problem with the A/C cranked that set off the chain of events instead.

If the cable connectors for the entire charging system are clean and tight, then the voltage in long stop and go traffic with the A/C cranked should drop down to about the 14 volt at the lowest mark when you are sitting.

My guess, voltage dropped down to maybe around 13.2 volts, and when things start to glitch (not enough to send the check charging system, but it's enough to cause other systems to start glitching instead).



If you get a chance, break out a multi meter set to DC and start checking your voltages with the car idling, and the A/C off.

Back post of the alternator as your positive source, and then the body of the alternator as the ground source, should have 14.6V.

At the battery terminals, should have 14.5 volts.

From the engine fuse block terminal as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source, should have 14.5 volts.

At the DIC, if the battery is 14.5 volts, then the DCI should read about 14.2~14.3 volts. Now kick the A/C on with the car idling (will hear the radiator fan come on), and the DIC voltage should only drop to about 14.0V at most.

If you are getting lower voltage readings, then post the readings per points, and should be a easy solution to get the charging system back up to factory fresh again.
Wife was driving at that time when light came on.I checked pressure and oil temp only never noted charge voltage.
My son will be here next week,he can ck all this.
Probably,as you say, something in charge system
Many thanks,sounds like you know your stuff.
Thanks 66racer
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 09:39 PM
  #11  
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From: TU CUM CARI NEW.MEX.
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Could be the pressure switch or it's wiring, but in stop and go with the A/C, did you have to notice was the voltage was isntead.


If I had to take a stab at it, dare to guess it's time to pull the charging system cables to clean and make sure that their connectors are tight, since it could have just been a low voltage problem with the A/C cranked that set off the chain of events instead.

If the cable connectors for the entire charging system are clean and tight, then the voltage in long stop and go traffic with the A/C cranked should drop down to about the 14 volt at the lowest mark when you are sitting.

My guess, voltage dropped down to maybe around 13.2 volts, and when things start to glitch (not enough to send the check charging system, but it's enough to cause other systems to start glitching instead).



If you get a chance, break out a multi meter set to DC and start checking your voltages with the car idling, and the A/C off.

Back post of the alternator as your positive source, and then the body of the alternator as the ground source, should have 14.6V.

At the battery terminals, should have 14.5 volts.

From the engine fuse block terminal as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source, should have 14.5 volts.

At the DIC, if the battery is 14.5 volts, then the DCI should read about 14.2~14.3 volts. Now kick the A/C on with the car idling (will hear the radiator fan come on), and the DIC voltage should only drop to about 14.0V at most.

If you are getting lower voltage readings, then post the readings per points, and should be a easy solution to get the charging system back up to factory fresh again.
Went in to Church today in Tucumcari.
Then Took wife by store,while waiting idled for sometime,
with air on, dic showed voltage at 12.3,revved to 2000 rpm getting 13.9,
no light tho,so probably the alternator. 66racer
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