oil pressure warning
oil pressure warning in HUD lit up,pressure about the same as always 25 idle 42 at 75mph.could the heat and miles of stop and go cause this. After got here and car cooled A few hours,oil ok. started it and no light.Ideas
Taking to Dealer Monday Thanks 66racer
Last edited by extrapilot; Jul 10, 2016 at 01:22 PM.
Pressure is about the same as always,so can not see the warning lite on,think everything hotter may be it,talking with service man tomorrow,see what he thinks.Thanks for your input 66racer
Last edited by 66racer; Jul 10, 2016 at 04:03 PM.
Pressure is about the same as always,so can not see the warning lite on,think everything hotter may be it,talking with service man tomorrow,see what he thinks.Thanks for your input 66racer
So decided to leave it alone for now.Drove 450 miles home yesterday oil pressure normal no light,will keep check on it if it happens again will have sender replaced 66racer
Last edited by schpenxel; Jul 14, 2016 at 09:35 PM.
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If I had to take a stab at it, dare to guess it's time to pull the charging system cables to clean and make sure that their connectors are tight, since it could have just been a low voltage problem with the A/C cranked that set off the chain of events instead.
If the cable connectors for the entire charging system are clean and tight, then the voltage in long stop and go traffic with the A/C cranked should drop down to about the 14 volt at the lowest mark when you are sitting.
My guess, voltage dropped down to maybe around 13.2 volts, and when things start to glitch (not enough to send the check charging system, but it's enough to cause other systems to start glitching instead).
If you get a chance, break out a multi meter set to DC and start checking your voltages with the car idling, and the A/C off.
Back post of the alternator as your positive source, and then the body of the alternator as the ground source, should have 14.6V.
At the battery terminals, should have 14.5 volts.
From the engine fuse block terminal as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source, should have 14.5 volts.
At the DIC, if the battery is 14.5 volts, then the DCI should read about 14.2~14.3 volts. Now kick the A/C on with the car idling (will hear the radiator fan come on), and the DIC voltage should only drop to about 14.0V at most.
If you are getting lower voltage readings, then post the readings per points, and should be a easy solution to get the charging system back up to factory fresh again.
If I had to take a stab at it, dare to guess it's time to pull the charging system cables to clean and make sure that their connectors are tight, since it could have just been a low voltage problem with the A/C cranked that set off the chain of events instead.
If the cable connectors for the entire charging system are clean and tight, then the voltage in long stop and go traffic with the A/C cranked should drop down to about the 14 volt at the lowest mark when you are sitting.
My guess, voltage dropped down to maybe around 13.2 volts, and when things start to glitch (not enough to send the check charging system, but it's enough to cause other systems to start glitching instead).
If you get a chance, break out a multi meter set to DC and start checking your voltages with the car idling, and the A/C off.
Back post of the alternator as your positive source, and then the body of the alternator as the ground source, should have 14.6V.
At the battery terminals, should have 14.5 volts.
From the engine fuse block terminal as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source, should have 14.5 volts.
At the DIC, if the battery is 14.5 volts, then the DCI should read about 14.2~14.3 volts. Now kick the A/C on with the car idling (will hear the radiator fan come on), and the DIC voltage should only drop to about 14.0V at most.
If you are getting lower voltage readings, then post the readings per points, and should be a easy solution to get the charging system back up to factory fresh again.
My son will be here next week,he can ck all this.
Probably,as you say, something in charge system
Many thanks,sounds like you know your stuff.
Thanks 66racer
If I had to take a stab at it, dare to guess it's time to pull the charging system cables to clean and make sure that their connectors are tight, since it could have just been a low voltage problem with the A/C cranked that set off the chain of events instead.
If the cable connectors for the entire charging system are clean and tight, then the voltage in long stop and go traffic with the A/C cranked should drop down to about the 14 volt at the lowest mark when you are sitting.
My guess, voltage dropped down to maybe around 13.2 volts, and when things start to glitch (not enough to send the check charging system, but it's enough to cause other systems to start glitching instead).
If you get a chance, break out a multi meter set to DC and start checking your voltages with the car idling, and the A/C off.
Back post of the alternator as your positive source, and then the body of the alternator as the ground source, should have 14.6V.
At the battery terminals, should have 14.5 volts.
From the engine fuse block terminal as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source, should have 14.5 volts.
At the DIC, if the battery is 14.5 volts, then the DCI should read about 14.2~14.3 volts. Now kick the A/C on with the car idling (will hear the radiator fan come on), and the DIC voltage should only drop to about 14.0V at most.
If you are getting lower voltage readings, then post the readings per points, and should be a easy solution to get the charging system back up to factory fresh again.
Then Took wife by store,while waiting idled for sometime,
with air on, dic showed voltage at 12.3,revved to 2000 rpm getting 13.9,
no light tho,so probably the alternator. 66racer















