opinions on clutches...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 238
Likes: 10
From: ORANGE COUNTY CA
opinions on clutches...
Im pushing 682 rwhp 591 trq .. Getting ready for cams, springs, valves, pistons, etc.. looking to build my vette to 1000 hp.. Whats the best clutch out there to hold that kind of power?? Saw an act clutch kit that says will hold up to 1100 trq. thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
ACT=Junk
Mantic dual or triple
RXT is you measure/shim and luck out with a good one
RPS carbon if you measuer/shim
Some people are having decent luck with monster, but never messed with them.
Same thing I tell everyone wanting a 1000hp vette. Don't do it.
Mantic dual or triple
RXT is you measure/shim and luck out with a good one
RPS carbon if you measuer/shim
Some people are having decent luck with monster, but never messed with them.
Same thing I tell everyone wanting a 1000hp vette. Don't do it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 238
Likes: 10
From: ORANGE COUNTY CA
thought about RPS and cleod clutches but havent heard much about them.. definitely kicking ACT and Exedy out of the equation now lol
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,505
Likes: 3,634
Weight in these two options
The amount that the clutch will hold, and if you need to strip or DD the car, how well will the clutch allow initial slipping/street drive-abliity.
Hence with some clutches, then hold very well, but are like on/off switches that do not allow much slipping before they bite and grab, or noisy as hell when you have the clutch pedal pushed in instead.
And with any aftermarket clutch, don't treat is like it going to install plug and play!!!! Before you install the torque tube, measure from the back of the bell housing to the face of the fingers, them compress the TB and measure for its face back to the face of the torque tube (area that is going to make up with the face of the bell housing. Now take this amount of free play between the two, and confirm that it in spec with the clutch manufacturers numbers.
As for clutch, kind of a fan of the center force Dyad. It feels like the stock clutch in regards to pedal pressure and being able to slip it, has good holding power, and when set up correctly, has no noise when you are holding the clutch in.
The down fall, like any clutch that is set up to allow slipping, it not going to last as long as a stick and grab type racing clutch when you are abusing it over and over again instead.
The amount that the clutch will hold, and if you need to strip or DD the car, how well will the clutch allow initial slipping/street drive-abliity.
Hence with some clutches, then hold very well, but are like on/off switches that do not allow much slipping before they bite and grab, or noisy as hell when you have the clutch pedal pushed in instead.
And with any aftermarket clutch, don't treat is like it going to install plug and play!!!! Before you install the torque tube, measure from the back of the bell housing to the face of the fingers, them compress the TB and measure for its face back to the face of the torque tube (area that is going to make up with the face of the bell housing. Now take this amount of free play between the two, and confirm that it in spec with the clutch manufacturers numbers.
As for clutch, kind of a fan of the center force Dyad. It feels like the stock clutch in regards to pedal pressure and being able to slip it, has good holding power, and when set up correctly, has no noise when you are holding the clutch in.
The down fall, like any clutch that is set up to allow slipping, it not going to last as long as a stick and grab type racing clutch when you are abusing it over and over again instead.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,626
Likes: 195
From: On the east coast we drive until we die
Ask 100 different people and you'll get a 100 different answers. Clutches are just one of those things....
I researched a lot before I swapped clutches years ago. To the point where I was giving myself a headache and was almost to the point where I was going to put all of the names in a hat and just pick one. I spoke with my shop at the time and based on my power, intended use of the car, and budget, they made a recommendations of a Spec3+ w/lightweight pressure plate and flywheel. I have no complaints but am I recommending this clutch to you? No Way. Because your build is vastly different than mine. My suggestion is to ask over in the FI section, since I assume that is how you plan on making 1000rwhp. See what the triple digit power cars are running, what type of driving/racing they're doing, and if they could do it over again would they choose the same clutch. A test drive would be best if you can find an offer. Don't jump into this decision because the clutch is the main link to your enjoyment of the car.
I researched a lot before I swapped clutches years ago. To the point where I was giving myself a headache and was almost to the point where I was going to put all of the names in a hat and just pick one. I spoke with my shop at the time and based on my power, intended use of the car, and budget, they made a recommendations of a Spec3+ w/lightweight pressure plate and flywheel. I have no complaints but am I recommending this clutch to you? No Way. Because your build is vastly different than mine. My suggestion is to ask over in the FI section, since I assume that is how you plan on making 1000rwhp. See what the triple digit power cars are running, what type of driving/racing they're doing, and if they could do it over again would they choose the same clutch. A test drive would be best if you can find an offer. Don't jump into this decision because the clutch is the main link to your enjoyment of the car.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 102
I would look into an Rxt or monster twin disk if budget is of some consideration. You're def goin. To want a multidisk clutch at that level to retain driveability. I actually have a like new rps billet carbon unit for sale if you're interested
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 209
Likes: 14
From: houston texas
Weight in these two options
The amount that the clutch will hold, and if you need to strip or DD the car, how well will the clutch allow initial slipping/street drive-abliity.
Hence with some clutches, then hold very well, but are like on/off switches that do not allow much slipping before they bite and grab, or noisy as hell when you have the clutch pedal pushed in instead.
And with any aftermarket clutch, don't treat is like it going to install plug and play!!!! Before you install the torque tube, measure from the back of the bell housing to the face of the fingers, them compress the TB and measure for its face back to the face of the torque tube (area that is going to make up with the face of the bell housing. Now take this amount of free play between the two, and confirm that it in spec with the clutch manufacturers numbers.
As for clutch, kind of a fan of the center force Dyad. It feels like the stock clutch in regards to pedal pressure and being able to slip it, has good holding power, and when set up correctly, has no noise when you are holding the clutch in.
The down fall, like any clutch that is set up to allow slipping, it not going to last as long as a stick and grab type racing clutch when you are abusing it over and over again instead.
The amount that the clutch will hold, and if you need to strip or DD the car, how well will the clutch allow initial slipping/street drive-abliity.
Hence with some clutches, then hold very well, but are like on/off switches that do not allow much slipping before they bite and grab, or noisy as hell when you have the clutch pedal pushed in instead.
And with any aftermarket clutch, don't treat is like it going to install plug and play!!!! Before you install the torque tube, measure from the back of the bell housing to the face of the fingers, them compress the TB and measure for its face back to the face of the torque tube (area that is going to make up with the face of the bell housing. Now take this amount of free play between the two, and confirm that it in spec with the clutch manufacturers numbers.
As for clutch, kind of a fan of the center force Dyad. It feels like the stock clutch in regards to pedal pressure and being able to slip it, has good holding power, and when set up correctly, has no noise when you are holding the clutch in.
The down fall, like any clutch that is set up to allow slipping, it not going to last as long as a stick and grab type racing clutch when you are abusing it over and over again instead.
My center force Dyad drives very close to stock. I did add a .125 shim to slave.
Last edited by badass68; Aug 8, 2016 at 09:08 AM.
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