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In the process of replacing the shocks, the lower shock bolt seized to the steel bushing insert. In the process of removing the bolt, I destroyed the bolt and bushing. Turns out the bushing can't be replaced, the control arm has to be replaced. I did a little searching around, asked for some help (not much response), and ended up finding a C6 that was being parted out. I bought a control arm from AES Auto (AESCORVETTEPARTS.COM) for $75 and they had it to me very quickly. I asked them to include the lower bolt, which they did.
As I started looking into replacing the control arm, it looked like I was going to have to acquire a $350 ball joint separator to release the lower ball joint. Instead I tapped on the control arm with a 3 lb sledge in a solid looking spot and wedged a crow bar between the control arm and ball joint and easily popped the two apart. I didn't need to do anything to the spring, tie rod end, wheel speed sensor either. I removed the bolts from the inner pivot points and th sway bar and popped the control arm out. Reinstallation was pretty drama free.
I read a few articles that described a lot of factory tools, micrometer measurements, rear spring removal, etc. I didn't do any of that. I'll take it in for an alignment and hopefully be done.
I can't wait to see the difference between 90K mile base shocks, sway bars, and Goodyear all seasons, to Z-51 shocks and sway bars, and Bridgestone RE-11s!
Last edited by Jack Boelte; Aug 13, 2016 at 09:54 PM.
The c6 rear lower control arms bushings are replaceable I replaced mines with aftermarket bushings then pinned them to force the car to run straight.
The factory bushings must be pressed out the replacement aftermarket bushings slide rite into place with bushing silicon grease and a 4 inch vise grip.
I use ball join separator in he link bellow not the best but it works.
The c6 rear lower control arms bushings are replaceable I replaced mines with aftermarket bushings then pinned them to force the car to run straight.
The factory bushings must be pressed out the replacement aftermarket bushings slide rite into place with bushing silicon grease and a 4 inch vise grip.
I use ball join separator in he link bellow not the best but it works.
Figures, I had asked around about replacing the bushing, but never got a good response. I thought about replacing all of the bushings with poly, but really wasn't ready to do all that.
The tool you show may have worked. The crow bar was surprisingly easy though.
Yes, the car is quite different. The tires are much quieter. Now I think I've got a wheel bearing going bad...
Figures, I had asked around about replacing the bushing, but never got a good response. I thought about replacing all of the bushings with poly, but really wasn't ready to do all that.
The tool you show may have worked. The crow bar was surprisingly easy though.
Yes, the car is quite different. The tires are much quieter. Now I think I've got a wheel bearing going bad...
You may want to wait till alignment before the changing the bearing just in case you are hearing the tire instead.
How badly damage is your rear lower control arm, is it just the bushing?