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Old Sep 18, 2016 | 05:51 PM
  #21  
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I just looked up a few posts on the Diablo site and I went into the tune and set my fans to come on earlier ..... was careful not to go above 90% as I don't want to fry the connectors or my pwm controller

Dave
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Old Sep 18, 2016 | 05:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Dcasole
I just looked up a few posts on the Diablo site and I went into the tune and set my fans to come on earlier ..... was careful not to go above 90% as I don't want to fry the connectors or my pwm controller

Dave
Yes, Yes, Yes Dave - 90 is good!
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 10:08 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BlindSpot
Good Q Bobby. So many people buy 160* thermostats for the same reasons they buy Regal Pink oil from Hawaiian boutique Oil company (made up name, no reference intended to any real boutique oil co) in place of the specced oil for their trans, diffs, engines and PS units. It's because someone is selling these items and they're good at selling. What makes the oils work is the chemistry is such a big mystery that people do it as a complete leap of faith. "Racer Tommy uses Regal Pink in all of his race cars so it's good enough for me" Racer Tommy is sponsored by Hawaiian Oil Co. But...hush hush on that.

The tstat should be a no brainer BC it's just simple science. How can a controller rated at 160* control temps when the op temps are considerably higher 200*+++? The funniest to me is reading a post that says - "I was running 220* 230* and I switched to a 160* tstat and I now never go above 190*"...WAIT....WHAT???...But, that's good salesmanship! So convincing that the buyer is in denial.

And, as stated, although not much an argument for you and me, I DON'T want a 160* tstat if I drive the car in Anchorage in December.

I took my 160* stat out after one Winter in sunny California.

I was seeing 168-172* coolant temps. This was in the SF Bay Area too.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #24  
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So tonight I talked my wife into going out for a ride with me to test the new fan settings as it was a nice night , of course it was not 97 degrees but it was 87 when we left . While driving the car held 192 to 194 with or without the air on

I beat on it a bit and it went up to 198 but as soon as I let off it , the Temps settled back to 192 to 194

Got stuck at one long light and it jumped to 205 but as soon as I started to move it came back down

Went up on the highway [ in mexico of course] nobody around for miles so really got into it coming down the entrance ramp and into the traffic lanes , into the 3 digits and never got above 196

Pulled into my driveway and sat there with the car in gear , air on and off and the highest it got was 205

The test will be tommorrow sitting in traffic all the way to work but I really think it was the fan settings

We shall see

Dave
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Dcasole
So tonight I talked my wife into going out for a ride with me to test the new fan settings as it was a nice night , of course it was not 97 degrees but it was 87 when we left . While driving the car held 192 to 194 with or without the air on

I beat on it a bit and it went up to 198 but as soon as I let off it , the Temps settled back to 192 to 194

Got stuck at one long light and it jumped to 205 but as soon as I started to move it came back down

Went up on the highway [ in mexico of course] nobody around for miles so really got into it coming down the entrance ramp and into the traffic lanes , into the 3 digits and never got above 196

Pulled into my driveway and sat there with the car in gear , air on and off and the highest it got was 205

The test will be tommorrow sitting in traffic all the way to work but I really think it was the fan settings

We shall see

Dave
Hi Dave sounds like you made a change that is measurable. Here is something to consider (and I'm only mentioning this as I get more and more into my own tuning I see the tradeoffs), there is only one reason the operating temps are lower...than fans are running more.

That might be a reasonable tradeoff for you. On the other hand, the sensitive fans in the C6 won't take much overtaxing.

Please don't take this as critical, only meant to be thoughtful. If it were me, I MIGHT and only say might, tweak back in the other direction to see if I could get the 192/194 to 198/200 to save more of the fans...or....this is minutia...Ha, ha.. Midrange is the trick, that's where the engine is running the majority of the time.

What you doing in meheco??
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:35 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Not So Fast
Yep, I found this post concerning this very subject Steve, for your consideration
NSF
THERMOSTAT: Probably the most misunderstood component in the cooling system, the thermostat has absolutely nothing to do with controlling maximum engine operating temperature. Period.
NFS , I read this post also and really respect the author as I think he knows his stuff but the problem it is , it is assuming that you have a working thermostat ..... if you have one that is sticking like I think mine is then it has everything to do with maximum temperatures if it is sticking closed or only partially open

I think many of us like Gold72 have experienced a STICKING thermostat at one time or another

I am happy with my temps now that I changed the fan settings and I think the slow changes I am seeing up and down are normal but if I see them bouncing all around like they were doing no matter what MPH I was driving then replacing the thermostat is next for me

all you guys have been a big help !
Dave !
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Dcasole
NFS , I read this post also and really respect the author as I think he knows his stuff but the problem it is , it is assuming that you have a working thermostat ..... if you have one that is sticking like I think mine is then it has everything to do with maximum temperatures if it is sticking closed or only partially open

I think many of us like Gold72 have experienced a STICKING thermostat at one time or another

I am happy with my temps now that I changed the fan settings and I think the slow changes I am seeing up and down are normal but if I see them bouncing all around like they were doing no matter what MPH I was driving then replacing the thermostat is next for me

all you guys have been a big help !
Dave !

My suggestion is this (as before in this thread) - Just eliminate the tstat. Run through the rest of the warm weather with no tstat. Since you have good data above, compare it w/o a tstat. See if the #s are exactly the same or deviate. if they deviate, then you know the sticking tstat impacted your running temps. I have a side bet on the outcome.

Last edited by BlindSpot; Sep 19, 2016 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BlindSpot
My suggestion is this (as before in this thread) - Just eliminate the tstat. Run through the rest of the warm weather with no tstat. Since you have good data above, compare it w/o a tstat. See if the #s are exactly the same or deviate. if they deviate, then you know the sticking tstat impacted your running temps. I have a side bet on the outcome.
LOL , love the side bet comment

I am lazy and I don't like " Dirty Jobs so I am only going to do it once and I am going to change it out

Plus there is the chance that you can have to much flow thru the cooling system which is not good also as it does not allow the coolant time to dissipate heat while running thru the radiator ( from my days spent with a RAM AIR 4 Motor , what a heat monster that was )

Dave

Dave

Last edited by Dcasole; Sep 19, 2016 at 08:57 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 09:47 PM
  #29  
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No tstat does not work well. You need a restiction. You can run a gutted t-stat, but car may flag errors for not warming quick enough.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 09:55 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
No tstat does not work well. You need a restiction. You can run a gutted t-stat, but car may flag errors for not warming quick enough.
i Agree....you need something to restrict the flow

Dave
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 10:09 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
No tstat does not work well. You need a restiction. You can run a gutted t-stat, but car may flag errors for not warming quick enough.
I've only had a P0128 appear one time on an experiment I ran, but it was a seriously cold day in January. In fact, it was 20* when I started the cold engine. That code set as the engine is warming up to temp, then expired a couple on minutes later as the engine reached op temp. In fact, I cleared the code while the engine was running in a datalog event.

No prob...nothing gained, nothing lost.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 11:12 PM
  #32  
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If I was going that deep into changing the t-stat and swapping fluid, I would just put a new $15 t-stat in and move on instead of experimenting around.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 11:33 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Boomer111
I took my 160* stat out after one Winter in sunny California.

I was seeing 168-172* coolant temps. This was in the SF Bay Area too.
It gets a little cool up there....I used to live in Hayward.
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Old Sep 20, 2016 | 08:02 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
If I was going that deep into changing the t-stat and swapping fluid, I would just put a new $15 t-stat in and move on instead of experimenting around.
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Old Sep 20, 2016 | 08:09 PM
  #35  
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So I drove it to work today with the new fan settings in place

97 degrees in the afternoon and humid as hell !!

Same route ,same traffic , same heat

The car never went over 205 in crazy stop and go traffic and once I got going on the side streets it would drop below 200

On the highway at 65 to 75 it was running 194 - 196

Sitting idle in my driveway for 20 minutes in gear with the air running it topped out at 214 and never went any higher

Feeling much better about things now

not sure why my fans were set so low .........

Dave
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 10:27 AM
  #36  
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Here is something to give you some perspective..On my 89 Corvette C4 the coolant temps had to get to 228 degrees before the fan even came on.., this is how GM designed them.. 210 -220 degrees on a C6 Corvette is nothing......WW
.
.

Last edited by WW7; Sep 23, 2016 at 10:29 AM.
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 12:49 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by WW7
Here is something to give you some perspective..On my 89 Corvette C4 the coolant temps had to get to 228 degrees before the fan even came on.., this is how GM designed them.. 210 -220 degrees on a C6 Corvette is nothing......WW
.
.
Thanks !

Been driving it all week with the new fan settings and it's running way cooler

I was just not comfortable with how hot it was running ....

Dave
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