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I am about to do some upgrades to my C6 Drivetrain. While I am at it I am installing ARP Wheel Studs. Since they are 2.5" long I will need Open End lug nuts. I am using the OEM Base C6 Wheels. I am very picky so function, fit and finish are very important to me. Does anyone make Black Open Ended lug nuts that won't stick out a mile and look like a Ricer? Please post up Mfg. Part# and Pictures if possible.
I am about to do some upgrades to my C6 Drivetrain. While I am at it I am installing ARP Wheel Studs. Since they are 2.5" long I will need Open End lug nuts. I am using the OEM Base C6 Wheels. I am very picky so function, fit and finish are very important to me. Does anyone make Black Open Ended lug nuts that won't stick out a mile and look like a Ricer? Please post up Mfg. Part# and Pictures if possible.
Try lugnutguys.com They have about anything and everything.
Hey 7 went true this already factory studs in my car at list are the bull nose type and they are the best sense you cant cross a thread and as far as I know the ARP are not I used Moroso but there is a caveat they like to rust so I use a dry spray lubricant.
And for open end lug nuts strong and light weight is my priority these are steel mines came in at 26 grams they also come in all colors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Muteki-31886B-Deep-Black-Open-End-Set-of-20-Lug-Nuts-Adapter-Key-12x1-50-/131434393693?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
I found the best way to install them is to draw them in with a breaker bar and lots of oil sense speed sensors don't like the hammer too much and while in the process try not to drop the spindle which contains the speed sensor.
Hey 7 went true this already factory studs in my car at list are the bull nose type and they are the best sense you cant cross a thread and as far as I know the ARP are not I used Moroso but there is a caveat they like to rust so I use a dry spray lubricant.
I found the best way to install them is to draw them in with a breaker bar and lots of oil sense speed sensors don't like the hammer too much and while in the process try not to drop the spindle which contains the speed sensor.
Nice, Those studs didnt even come up when I was searching. The lug nuts look pretty good also. I will check to see how long the lug nuts are.
Not sure what OP is but I have been doing alot of searching. Studs are 2.5" from shoulder to end of threads. With my calculations that leaves approximately 1.75" past the face of the wheel. I don't want the lugs to look funny sticking way out. Most of the open end lugs nuts are 1" or 2" long. I may just have to cut down the studs in my lathe and use the stock lug nuts. Yes I am very picky about fit and finish. I hope this answers your question.
Not sure what OP is but I have been doing alot of searching. Studs are 2.5" from shoulder to end of threads. With my calculations that leaves approximately 1.75" past the face of the wheel. I don't want the lugs to look funny sticking way out. Most of the open end lugs nuts are 1" or 2" long. I may just have to cut down the studs in my lathe and use the stock lug nuts. Yes I am very picky about fit and finish. I hope this answers your question.
Stock studs are 1 5/8 shoulder to end of threads, so you have 7/8 more thread. The hub is .360 thick and the only wheels I have available to measure are QX3's that are .650 back to face. That leaves .615 worth of threads beyond the wheel face and also happens to be the same dimension as the open end lugnuts I use with my race wheels at the dragstrip. The unthreaded leader on the studs is approximately 1/4, so assuming the dimension from the back to the face of your wheels is similar, I agree with your 1.75 number. However, according to the ARP catalog, the 2.5" studs have a .200 unthreaded leader. If you'd use the 2" ARP studs that are only .040 longer than stock you would have no problems.
A point to remember, no matter which way you go, is that any lugnut you use should have at least 12mm of thread. If they are closed end lugnuts, there should be enough space for the leader after you have rotated the lugnut at least 8 full turns of thread engagement and the turns are greater than those needed when mounting the wheel.
If you can get by with stock length studs with the thread all the way to the end buy some Dorman stock replacement studs at your local auto store. Then get Extended Thread Lug nuts that thread into the stud opening in the wheel. With the extra 1/4 inch of threads on a stock length stud and the extra quarter inch of threads on the extended thread lug nuts you get plenty of thread capture with these nuts. I got these lug nuts from CCW because I had to run a spacer with their wheels when using the CCM rotors.
When you see them mounted on the studs they look like the GM standard stainless steel capped nuts but they are solid and chrome plated. They look like a Gorilla Nut but I couldn't find any Gorilla lug nuts that weren't locking nuts which makes them become a huge PIA when swapping wheels at the track. If you are interested in them call CCW. They work fine with the stock wheels and CCW wheels. They do hold up much better than the stock lug nuts because they don't have a cap that will distort and fall off. They can take a beating from an impact wrench many times and keep on working and looking good.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Oct 7, 2016 at 10:22 PM.
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ARP Wheel Studs and Open End Lug Nuts
