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I'm planning to replace my stock wheel studs with some that are 1/2" longer so I can safely space the wheels out a bit. Can someone tell me what the length and knurl dia is on the stock studs and who might carry ones that are from .5 - .75" longer? Thanks in advance. -DJ
The GM parts guy ..... and the Summit Sales rep told me that stock length was 41.5 mm (1.63") That must be the thread length. I order the DRM 1/2" longer. Should be fine. Thx to all. -DJ
The GM parts guy ..... and the Summit Sales rep told me that stock length was 41.5 mm (1.63") That must be the thread length. I order the DRM 1/2" longer. Should be fine. Thx to all. -DJ
If you go to the ARP longer studs, you have to remove the hubs to install them. Big job because you have aluminum and steel corrosion.
The GM parts guy ..... and the Summit Sales rep told me that stock length was 41.5 mm (1.63") That must be the thread length. I order the DRM 1/2" longer. Should be fine. Thx to all. -DJ
It all depends on the criteria for the measurement. You can measure just the thread length, the leader length, the knurled length, or any combination of those. Normally the head thickness is not included, but you never know when an advertiser will quote the overall length to make his product appear superior.
The 1.63 is the installed length from the outer hub face to the end of the stud. If you add the hub thickness of .36, the total is 1.99 or nominally 2".
On the DRM chart that el es tu posted, the stock stud is moved slightly to the left to accentuate the comparison for visual purposes to the 2" fully threaded DRM stud. It's not really 1/2" longer, but it does have about 3/8" more threads than OEM. So the DRM 2" studs will safely allow a 5/16" spacer. If you need more, then make sure the additional length of the threads is enough. http://arpcatalog.com/#79/z
I don't get the 'aluminum and steel corrosion' comment.....
To remove the hub you have three large Torx cap-screws that go through the aluminum steering knuckle and the steel bolt and aluminum hub corrode because of the dissimilar metals.
To remove the hub you have three large Torx cap-screws that go through the aluminum steering knuckle and the steel bolt and aluminum hub corrode because of the dissimilar metals.
Is removing the hubs necessary for all longer studs .... or is it just an issue with the 2.5" length ... like the ARP ones? Would the slightly shorter DRM studs work without removing the hubs?
Is removing the hubs necessary for all longer studs .... or is it just an issue with the 2.5" length ... like the ARP ones? Would the slightly shorter DRM studs work without removing the hubs?
I installed the ARP studs and yes, you do need to remove the hubs for those. Since it was apart, I installed the SKF performance bearings, little pricey at $400 each, but I haven't had any failures in 8 years.
You can get a ~ 1/4 inch longer thread length by swapping the stock studs for Dorman replacement studs. The Dormans are threaded all the way to the end. If you can get by with that 1/4 inch they are a lot cheaper and available at your local parts store.
If you want to run an 1/8 in spacer you don't have to change the lug nuts so they fit over a longer stud.