Guys,
After removing and replacing the console on my 2008 in order to fix the CANT-GET-IT-OUT-OF-PARK syndrome, I drove the car the next day and everything was normal: a trip to the airport and back, a coffee hour at Panera's, a stop at Autozone to pick up the grommets for the dreaded a/t shift lines and finally home. Two days later I tried to open the door to retrieve a book and it wouldn't open so I forgot about it thinking that I didn't have a fob in my pocket and that's was the reason for no access. This morning, however, with a fob in hand I couldn't get in. I remembered the drill, key by the rear license plate, pull the tab inside the hatch and open the door.
No lights, no nothing. Checked the battery--dead. I've now got a charger and it's coming back but very slowly. I know it's not the battery since I just bought NAPA's best a few months ago.
What did I do wrong?
I remember while fiddling with the console that a noise akin to moving the seat around was coming from the passenger side, around the back of the seat. I checked a couple of times but coulndt make it stop so I kept working thinking that some kind of a sensor or motor or switch was being affected by having the console shell up in the air. I buttoned everything up after zip tying the detente tab to the shifter. No more noises. And, as I said at the outset, the car started fine the next day with nary a hint of trouble.
What could I have done wrong, forgotten or broken? Is the disabled shifter **** solenoid permanently switched on and thus the current loss that is draining the battery down to nothing?
Please help me figure this out before calling the tow-truck to the nearest Chevrolet dealer with Corvette savvy which is 20 miles away.

 

That issue that your experiencing has nothing to do with tying back the lock out pawl.
You have a parasitic amperage draw somewhere. You will have to do some checking to find out what it is.

Here is a starting point for you to try.

 

Thank you very much for your help. I will wait until the battery is fully charged and then get started. Hopefully it'll be something I inadvertently touched or bumped into while working in there. Your attachment has a pretty good list of possibilities. I know I plugged everything back in and the only "left over" part was the small baby blue plastic clip which secures the cigarette lighter in place. I removed it thinking that I would have to disconnect it but managed without removing the lighter so I simply left it out knowingly since it looked redundant. I know that none of the wires were frayed or came into contact with each other. Still wonder what the back and forth whirring sound was coming as though from the passenger seat were being adjusted all the time. Any ideas?

 

I also removed that Blue locking clip many years ago, and left it off.
Does the passenger seat move if you try adjusting it?
I have attached the schematic of the power seat circuit. The wires at the connector under the seat have been known to break away from the connector pin (s), so if all else checks OK, it may not hurt to check this out. You can always pull the fuse for the passenger seat if you can't find a parasitic draw, and see if it stops the battery drain.

 

Before I disconnected the battery to leave the charger on without worrying too much, I started the car a few minutes ago just to see what would happen. It started right up. I paid particular attention to the voltmeter and it was charging normally, at around 14.6 volts. Everything came on suddenly, including the radio at full blast, the windows will have to be reindexed, and the passenger seat was all the way back so I moved it a bit forward--don't know if the shoulder belt harness may have been pushing against the seat controls or not. Will also check seat heaters, etc. It seems that it would have to big something with a lot of power draw for the battery to go flat so quickly.
Incidentally, after doing the PARK repair, because I'd spent so much time with the doors open and moving the driver's seat intentionally back and forth to gain better access, I put on the battery tender and that may explain why the car started so readily the next morning. Sometime tomorrow when the battery is back up to full charge I will go through the checklist you attached, carefully and slowly, turning things off. Should that not prove fruitful I will start going through the fuses one by one. Sooner or later something will turn up. I hope I hope. I'm fond of the car and it pains me to think that I screwed something up by sheer stupidity.