Sway Bars?
Last edited by Lenny S; Oct 22, 2016 at 03:07 AM.
The quality of the Eibach bars are top notch, IMV, and given that they are priced at like half of what other popular C5/C6 bars are going for, they're damn good bang for the buck. Do a search on here. I'm pretty sure I did a thread about them, with pictures and all.
They will be a marked improvement over your base model anti sway bars.






Is this a daily driver you want to handle better, or a dedicated track car?
The factory Z51 setup is a great combination for DD/Autocross. You can get the Z51 sways and front spring, the rear spring is almost identical between base/Z51. Used parts are often in excellent condition at good prices.
If you drive on mostly smooth roads, the Bilstein Sport shocks should be tolerable. For bumpier roads, try the Bilstein Heavy Duty (they are actually more of a medium duty, softer than the Sports).
Dano is correct, you need a proper combination of parts. Helter-skelter changes can bite you in the butt.
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FYI, here is a shot I created with the sizes and comparing looks, too:
Note: I had the rear bar installed before I thought to document what I was doing, which is why it isn't in the shot, but it's diameter is given.
I am very happy with the combo they ride real nice and a definite improvement in handling. Car is very neutral now I have a lot more confidence in the back. I got a great deal they were running a sale i got them for like $1100. Most other combo's will be in the same price range (except C6 Z06 shocks and Z51 sways) maybe more.
If you do go this route, a couple of install tips;
Make sure the sways don't bind in the bushings. I had to shim the bracket to frame connection with some big washers from Lowes. The bracket is too small and if you use the bigger bushings needed for any bigger sway bar they will not move and that's not good they have to be free. You don't want them sloppy loose, but they should be able to move. I had to grind the washers to get them to fit on the frame correctly I think i ended up with 3 under each bolt hole. Again you will probably have to do this with any larger swaybar using the factory sway bar bushing bracket.
When using the adj end links on the rear leave them disconnected and load the cars weight(i put all the tires on and lowered the car onto ramps) then i used the middle hole. You will have to adj the end links to fit when it loaded there is only one length that will fit.
For the fronts I noticed that I could use various lengths to get the endlinks to fit. A quick call to AFe and they said to set it for half way to start then adj if front is too tight or loose. For me this setup has made my car neutral no front end push or rear end kick out.
FYI, here is a shot I created with the sizes and comparing looks, too:
Note: I had the rear bar installed before I thought to document what I was doing, which is why it isn't in the shot, but it's diameter is given.
Like many things - the suspension system has many elements, so making changes to the various components should be done wisely.
OP, since you have non-Z51 sways just going up to the Z51 sways would be a good improvement. You should be able to pick up a used set cheap.
The other side of sway bars that some seem to ignore is that they make the car stiffer - by design, which means it takes less of a bump to feel it in the car and not everyone likes that.
Sometimes people upgrade stuff because they can, not because they need to.
If you are into autocross, or the occasional track day, so feel you would benefit from thicker bars, then it's just a matter of knowing the diameter of what you have and moving to something beefier. That said, sway bars and shocks usually work best when bought together, or with the knowledge of the other in the mix. That is why you will find some of the best stuff out there sold in sway bar + shock packages. They are the main components that must play nice together in you suspension system.
Good luck!




















