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2011 GS, ECS Novi 1500 One day my fan no longer would come on and I brought it to the Chevy Dealership. They said the fan control module needed to be replaced. Since I could get it faster, and cheaper, I did. The fan still would not come on.
and the fan works and shorting the signal wire as shown also started the fan. It did so with both the new fan module and the old module. I also ran through the checks listed in the GM diagnostic section shown here
My results were #2- Lamp OFF. I cleaned off the ground at the frame. I can not, however use a scan tool to command the fan, as I don't have one.
I would presume that this diagnostic sequence was followed at the Dealer and they were able to run the fan with a scan tool. The need for a new module is reached by inference, not a direct test of it.
My question is, does shorting the signal wire to the module to start the fan as shown in the video represent a valid conclusion that the module is functioning, and why.
It was also suggested to provide voltage to the signal wire. What would the results of that test tell me?
Is there anything else I can check to diagnose this. I've read many posts here and none of them that did not have some obvious problem ever included what the final diagnosis and repair were.
The usual cause of failure is the three wire connector between the fuse block and the fan controller. It's located about 12-18" upstream from the fan controller shown in the video.
The cure is to jump the offending wire or replace the connector. The GM replacement connector has a much smaller gauge center wire, which tends to fail even quicker.
I'm 5 years into a bypass jumper with no ill effects.
The usual cause of failure is the three wire connector between the fuse block and the fan controller. It's located about 12-18" upstream from the fan controller shown in the video.
The cure is to jump the offending wire or replace the connector. The GM replacement connector has a much smaller gauge center wire, which tends to fail even quicker.
I'm 5 years into a bypass jumper with no ill effects.
That connector, apart, looks new. Nothing visual to indicate any of the usual problems discussed in many posts.
Besides, if the fan runs when the jumpers are applied as shown in the video, wouldn't that indicate that the connector was OK? If that connector was shot, how would power get to the fan?
The car will overheat, as in 260 deg, if I am in town. If I stay above 50 mph as it reaches operating temp. it will come to 190-210, but as soon as I slow down it begins to climb.
As far as the burnt connector, how can the fan run at all if the connector is burnt. If the connector was burnt how could jumping the lower connector, at the module, send current to the fan?
Can anyone answer the question regarding whether grounding the signal wire to the module is a definitive test as to the function of the module.
Another fan not coming on
