wheel stud galling
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 317
Likes: 7
From: tampa fl
wheel stud galling
I change my rear wheels frequently between street and track set ups. Yesterday i was removing the driver side rear and 3 of the lugs were very difficult to remove. One of the wheel studs actually snapped (with surprisingly little effort). I spoke with a friend who educated me about the galling of threads being the cause of this. His suggestion, and what he does on his car, is add a bit of light grease to the threads before reinstalling. I just reviewed a lengthy thread about greasing wheel studs and came to the conclusion that about 50% think there is no issue with greasing studs and about 50% think that it is an issue. Assuming that the 50% that think it is an issue are correct, what steps can be taken to prevent galling in the future.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,352
Likes: 568
From: Ventura County, Calif
Might want to talk to the guys in the Roadracing Forum for insight.
I have a problem with grease.....you get an inaccurate torque reading. How about switching to ARP studs? I don't know, just thinking out loud.
I have a problem with grease.....you get an inaccurate torque reading. How about switching to ARP studs? I don't know, just thinking out loud.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,520
Likes: 880
2024 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
I change my rear wheels frequently between street and track set ups. Yesterday i was removing the driver side rear and 3 of the lugs were very difficult to remove. One of the wheel studs actually snapped (with surprisingly little effort). I spoke with a friend who educated me about the galling of threads being the cause of this. His suggestion, and what he does on his car, is add a bit of light grease to the threads before reinstalling. I just reviewed a lengthy thread about greasing wheel studs and came to the conclusion that about 50% think there is no issue with greasing studs and about 50% think that it is an issue. Assuming that the 50% that think it is an issue are correct, what steps can be taken to prevent galling in the future.
I've gotten various amounts of crap for suggesting this in the past, but ever since I starting used a lug wrench and tightening them by hand I stopped having the problem. This approach has also helped several friends avoid having it too.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 6
From: Lafayette IN
Galling is more common in alloys that rapidly form oxide coatings including aluminum titanium, and many stainless steels. The thin oxide can be removed during threading allowing the stud/lug to locally weld together. Heat is the primary factor. You can improve your odds by using anti-seize but, as indicated, this increases the torque (I back off of dry torque specs by 10%) but you can minimize the effect by NOT adding lube to the lug seat. Slow down the threading by threading by hand since a powered driver creates heat. Rolled threads are better since they're less likely to have friction inducing high spots from cutting. I swapped all of my lugs with ARP's last winter out of boredom. Sorry for geeking out.
DaveT
DaveT
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 317
Likes: 7
From: tampa fl
Galling is more common in alloys that rapidly form oxide coatings including aluminum titanium, and many stainless steels. The thin oxide can be removed during threading allowing the stud/lug to locally weld together. Heat is the primary factor. You can improve your odds by using anti-seize but, as indicated, this increases the torque (I back off of dry torque specs by 10%) but you can minimize the effect by NOT adding lube to the lug seat. Slow down the threading by threading by hand since a powered driver creates heat. Rolled threads are better since they're less likely to have friction inducing high spots from cutting. I swapped all of my lugs with ARP's last winter out of boredom. Sorry for geeking out.
DaveT
DaveT
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 461
From: Southern Utah
Galling is more common in alloys that rapidly form oxide coatings including aluminum titanium, and many stainless steels. The thin oxide can be removed during threading allowing the stud/lug to locally weld together. Heat is the primary factor. You can improve your odds by using anti-seize but, as indicated, this increases the torque (I back off of dry torque specs by 10%) but you can minimize the effect by NOT adding lube to the lug seat. Slow down the threading by threading by hand since a powered driver creates heat. Rolled threads are better since they're less likely to have friction inducing high spots from cutting. I swapped all of my lugs with ARP's last winter out of boredom. Sorry for geeking out.
DaveT
DaveT
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 965
Likes: 13
From: turn 12 at Road America or TX
Brake dust is the corrosive - I've broken my share of studs too. I use a die to chase the dirt from the stud threads. Keep the threads clean and dry and always torque to 100 #-ft. Also, PB Blaster might be a good cleaner - worth a try.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 806
From: West coast CA
A regular torque wrench isn't going to hurt anything. All it's doing is reporting the torque applied.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 6,987
Likes: 1,546
From: Florida
I don't get some using anti-seize or grease/oil, etc. There is little/no galvonic reaction steel to steel unless you're using aluminum lug nuts, which I've seen, but don't understand.
Torquing with a lubricated thread doesn't increase torque on the mating surfaces over a dry thread. 100 ft. lbs is 100 ft.lbs in both cases, but the difference is the lube greatly increases the clamping force which is the problem.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 112
From: ocean springs mississippi
I don't get some using anti-seize or grease/oil, etc. There is little/no galvonic reaction steel to steel unless you're using aluminum lug nuts, which I've seen, but don't understand.
Torquing with a lubricated thread doesn't increase torque on the mating surfaces over a dry thread. 100 ft. lbs is 100 ft.lbs in both cases, but the difference is the lube greatly increases the clamping force which is the problem.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 6,987
Likes: 1,546
From: Florida
I've seen them, just probably old school and don't trust aluminum as a wheel fastener. However, if you do use aluminum, you DO want anti-seize and reduce the torque. If it were me, I'd be in the range of 75 ft.lbs. with alum lug nuts.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 317
Likes: 7
From: tampa fl
https://www.fastenal.com/content/fed...%20Galling.pdf
Still doing research on galling. I have stock lugs (stainless) and stock wheel studs (not sure of material). My method of removing/installing the lugs is to break them loose and then remove with an impact gun. To tighten, I will use the impact gun to spin the lugs on, and then use a torque wrench to torque to 100 ft/lbs. Given that stainless is especially prone to galling (per article) is the best option to prevent this replacing the wheel studs with something else (if so, what)? Are ARP studs the best bet here? This seems like a problem that would have an easier solution!
Still doing research on galling. I have stock lugs (stainless) and stock wheel studs (not sure of material). My method of removing/installing the lugs is to break them loose and then remove with an impact gun. To tighten, I will use the impact gun to spin the lugs on, and then use a torque wrench to torque to 100 ft/lbs. Given that stainless is especially prone to galling (per article) is the best option to prevent this replacing the wheel studs with something else (if so, what)? Are ARP studs the best bet here? This seems like a problem that would have an easier solution!
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 6
From: Lafayette IN
I don't get some using anti-seize or grease/oil, etc. There is little/no galvonic reaction steel to steel unless you're using aluminum lug nuts, which I've seen, but don't understand.
Torquing with a lubricated thread doesn't increase torque on the mating surfaces over a dry thread. 100 ft. lbs is 100 ft.lbs in both cases, but the difference is the lube greatly increases the clamping force which is the problem.
Regards,
DaveT
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,106
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Since you have to remove the hub to replace studs, you might as well just replace the hub instead. It comes with new studs. The hubs (aka wheels bearings) don't last forever. It seems the 100K mile area +/- 20K is the normal lifetime.
I change wheels often too. I trailer my race wheels to the track. I also remove wheels for lots of other reasons. I bought new aftermarket chrome lugnuts for the street and plain open ended ones for the race wheels. I hand spin lugnuts on/off and use a beam type torque wrench to tighten in 3 stages to 100 #'.
I change wheels often too. I trailer my race wheels to the track. I also remove wheels for lots of other reasons. I bought new aftermarket chrome lugnuts for the street and plain open ended ones for the race wheels. I hand spin lugnuts on/off and use a beam type torque wrench to tighten in 3 stages to 100 #'.