flyinfree

Recently I purchased a 2006 Base model C6. Occasionally I hear a chirping sound. Thanks to many post about the harmonic balancers I think my C6 honeymoon period has come to an end.
I have not picked up a service manual yet so I was wondering if I could get some help. Has anyone seen an accurate step by step write up on the replacement procedure?
I am also hoping to get a parts list. I see the ATI balancer mentioned but have not seen a part number referenced.
Any advice, recommended parts or tools would be greatly appreciated. I am planning on picking up a service manual as well. Is one manual better than another? Currently lean in ng toward the Helms manual.

HK770

ATI... damper # 917246...... ARP bolt #ARP 234-2503

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...older&_sacat=0



http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rsistYmm=false

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-2503/10002/-1




Threads are 16mm:.....http://www.ebay.com/bhp/harmonic-bal...tallation-tool


https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harm...VZXX0HEXT20KBE

flyinfree

Does the ATI need a special seal? Should I use a genuine GM seal or should I get an aftermarket oil seal?

HK770

Because I'M lazy used aftermarket seal and SACCITY tool.

http://www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignItTools.html


Works great !! luck

flyinfree

Was your car an auto or manual transmission? If I have aautomatic transmission do I need a flywheel tool or is the an alternative method of achieving correct torque with turning motor over?

HK770

My car is auto: 1 you have to remove damper bolt
2 you have to remove and install damper
3 you have to torque OLD bolt to 240 lb ft
4 then remove bolt torqued at 240 lbs
5 then you torque new bolt....... using either GM or ARP values

Just a lot of trying to hold engine with out tool.....MHO

flyinfree

I don't think it would be possible without a tool. There are some on ebay for a reasonable price. I've got the balancer, the new bolt, the alignit tool on the way. Picked up a GM seal for the low low pice of $29.00 this morning.

flyinfree

I have a few more questions. I think I have a pretty good understanding of the balancer replacement process
I am a little confused on how the main steering connection is disconnected and how you ensure position is correct when reassembled. I understand keep the steering wheel straight and locked during disassembly. I plan on marking the 2 pieces prior to removing the rack. I haven't found much info on this process so I am hoping it's fairly straightforward forward once I get into it.

HK770

For outer tie rod joints:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Rack/pinion.... Main attachment bolts ...looks like am a bit tired...said four but only two!
Under hood at base of steering is a pinch bolt (shaft and rack will only fit one direction)
It is true you don't turn rack while you move it.

And Two power steering hoses. Mine has rack cooler, had to remove
While it is said you don't have to completely remove sway bar, I did.
You will have to remove electric fan.

Raised car as pictured to get job done.

C6ToGo

Mine is failing. See if any of this misc cut-n-paste stuff helps. I have been accumulating it in anticipation of doing it soon:

BALANCER SWAP:
Need: balancer, seal (12585673, 296-02, nat/timken 100470 $11), PS fluid,
flexplate lock tool, balancer installer (16mm stud $15 eBay), LOANER: Advance Auto balancer kit (has Chrysler puller and installer with bearing and carnk point protector)
new crank bolt, new tensioners, new belts, LOANER: 250LB torque wrench. Google "A&A supercharger instructions" for pics.

disconnect battery, remove sway bar, remove tie rods (jack under for pressure if shafts turn), remove starter (loosen cat or manifold to get to drop out, install flexplate lock
maybe lower cradle about 1/2" to help get lines loose (4 bolts), but may not need to if only pushing rack over partially, scribe balancer location

remove abs bracket bolts ( and other two if needed...dont lose and notice ther are "flats" on bolts for reassembly) and push out of way to get to 2 18mm lines, zip tie baggies to hold fluid,
CAREFUL unplugging rack connector, remove bolt on steering gear and remove from rack (11mm?), pry rack from mounts (notice washer sequence), roll rack out to passenger side enough to get to balancer
maybe slightly spread frame brackets with bolts and washers for easier reassembly (CAREFUL - ALUMINUM),
heat or torch to break RTV from crann bolt. Loosen with long cheater bar, Chrysler puller protecting end of crank, replace seal
boil crank 20 min and quickly put on with threaded installer, tighten with old bolt 240 LB then with new bolt. Grease bolts and washers on install

sequence rack washers with grease on reinstall into frame brackets, use pin punch to line it all up, CAREFUL with rack plug-tiny pins

BOLT TIGHTENING: tighten to 240LB with old bolt, threadlocker (272 Locktite?)on new bolt and tighten to 37Ft LB, mark bolt 12 oclock to 6 ocllock with line.
tighten bolt second time to get 140 degree angle, RESEARCH IT.

someones writeup:
Having owned my 2005 C6 (with 54,500 miles) since last November I have been watching the HB with a slight wobble. No chirping of the belts (or anything else), but I decided to replace it before it got worse. Tackled it Sunday for a few hours and finished it Monday afternoon. Using a friends lift made it much easier too.

Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool

Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts

First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).

Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.

Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.

Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.

At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.

flyinfree

This is the first time I've seem anything about disconnecting the exhaust. Are they recommending this to remove the starter? Does anyone know if the starter bolts can be removed and started just moved out of the way just to get the flywheel locking tool in place?

schpenxel

Probably. On manuals you can put them in gear and use the parking brake to hold the crank. I was surprised, but it worked

Auto I'd remove starter probably

HK770

11 GS done and no need to remove Exhaust. Starter came right out no fuss or muss.

luck

Paratrooper307

They have a nice write-up with pictures on the A&A Corvette site. It was particularly helpful for me when removing the steering rack and dealing with the ABS module.