Hello, I was at a track time yesterday, car was running perfect. After the heat ended, I noticed the temperature around the 240's, that is not good, as it is always on the low 220's. I did not went back in the track, let it cool down. On my way home, temperature was perfect, even in heavy traffic. Any ideas on what happened? what do I need to check or change? Please let me know.

Thanks

 

I'm assuming you mean coolant temps and not oil temps?

How long were your sessions?

When you say the temps are usually in the low 220's, is that during other track sessions or just during your normal driving?

 

Yes coolant temp, The sessions were around 10 minutes. Under normal driving is under 220's

 

Coolant temps in the 240* isn't terrible but it is on the high side. Are you making stock power or is the engine modded? How about the cooling system? If you're still running the original 2005 coolant, it's time to change it. Especially if you plan on running HPDEs. Also, blow out any debris from inside the radiator fins. Eleven years of road debris adds up. Depending on where you live and your other usage of the vehicle, you may want to consider lowering your coolant to water ratio. But again, this depends on what type of temperatures you regularly use the car in and how many track days you plan on participating in. From your avatar it would appear you have some track experience? So keep in mind on the track, depending on how hard you're pushing it, you'll be taxing your cooling system far more than just cruising around. But if none of the above mentioned ideas apply, check the Autocrossing/Road Race section for a lot of good temperature control advice.

 

Hello, thanks a lot for the advice. The radiator and fan are the stock ones, the car is modded with a supercharger, new coolant was used when installing the SC. I would like to use this car for more track days, it really sticks to the track. On the experience, yes, I raced motorcycle for around 10 years, competing in Daytona and Homestead, I quit right after my daughter was born (10 years ago), I got a wake up call and called it quits. Let me tell you, the car can have 10,000rwhp, but there is nothing better than racing a motorcycle!!! I will follow your advice and go to the Autocrossing section for more info.

Thanks!!!

 

It's amazing how kids change your perspectives on life.

Your supercharger is most likely the culprit. More specifically the intercooler. The blower causes a lot of heat. If you have a centri supercharger, ie; ECS, A&A, Procharger, etc., where the intercooler mounts in front of the radiator, it's blocking a lot of airflow causing your elevated temps on the track. Check in the Forced Induction section to see how the boosted guys battle the heat.

 

Yes men, the last race before calling it off, I had a bad crash on the first heat, I was able to fix the bike and run the second heat. Men let me tell you, that day when I came home and saw my daughter, I thought about all the possibilities if I ended up being not able to play with her. After that day, I tried to race again and all the things I was fearless of became my worst fears. If you are racing with fear, it's better to call it quits. On another point, thanks for the advice, your comment makes a lot of sense, the inter-cooler takes space from the radiator ventilation. Will go to the forced induction section and do some search.

Have a Merry Christmas!!!

 

Jose2SS, I would recommend going to a larger radiator and a D3 fan set up. Airflow is the key and the stock stuff just can't keep up with the demand on track.

Feel free to contact us if you would like to discuss this in length.

 

Its def the ECS blower kit causing the overheating been there done that; like 2 years of battling the nightmare.. Just like another member already stated above, the intercooler blocks all the air to the rad. You now have 3 layers of stuff blocking air and the fan trying to pull air through and it just cant keep up.. Buying a new rad or fan wont fix anything youll still overheat. 2 options really: 1. Either dump the ECS blower and get a different kit otherwise youll be battling overheating for years like I have and given bad advice on possible fixes dumping thousands of $$ for nothing, OR 2. IF you are open to it the REAL fix is cut your front brace support and do the Pat G mod.. I think its Pat G if i remember correctly.. Youll never overheat after that..

I WISH ECS would address this in their future kits and consider revisions to improve the actual kit overall especially the overheating issues that always come with ECS' kit..

Also if you are going to upgrade rad and fan please call Dewitts and specify you want the new cut down version at the upper right for supercharger fitment.. Dewitts will hook you up with the fan shroud that doesnt hit the supercharger and requires zero modification. The D3 is a great fan but they dont talk about the horrid fitment and the fact one of the fans hits the supercharger A LOT. It hits so much you even have to cut into the actual upper right fan.. So dont mess with D3 untill they revise their shroud. I have a D3 it doesnt bolt on and it protrudes above the rad so you also have to cut down their shroud 2" to even get the blower to fit. If i could do it again i would just do the 17" Dewitts brushlessfan with the full Dewitt rad.. Great customer service at Dewitts and they stand behind their product as it fits amazing. Again, i recommend keeping oem rad and fan they are fine. You need to address the changes made which was the intercooler blocking air.. Dewitt now makes their fans run without the oem crappy module that kept burning out and couldnt handle the amps resulting in burnt connectors.

 

I had to cut my front brace credit to Pat G on that and add an air metal deflector like A&A provides in their kit to direct air to the radiator.... Remove the stupid lower flap and bolt it there in the rad support bar area as you can see in my pix..

See my pics any questions just pm me, hope you get it fixed.

 

Stock stuff has trouble keeping up on a warm day at the track even before you add the additional heat of the blower and block airflow with an intercooler. If you go over to the AutoX/Roadracing section, be prepared to hear multiple people tell you to remove the blower and go back to stock.

 

Hey men, thanks for the info, you hit the nail, I took a closer look and what you mention makes total sense, the radiator is over a new layer of obstruction with the SC intercooler on it. Next week, I will take a day off and do what you did on you front brace, I think this may solve or improve the issue. Oh and by the way, already contacted Dewitts and they provided me the part number and price for the radiator to be used with a SC (intercooler) with no mods.

Thanks a lot!!!!

 

Jose, be aware that this person is disgruntled because we do not want to do business with him, if you were able to see the thread about him in the vendor section you would understand why. We have many cars with our supercharger kit that road race, but as I stated, you have to put effort into the cooling system.
I have personally spent hour long sessions in a 1000 RWHP C6Z without over heating issues, but the effort needs to be made accordingly.

 

Thanks Doug, if possible, please send me a PM with what you recommend and price.

 

Arctic Vette, you have posted about your issues with ECS in a thread in the Transactions Feedback section, as permitted by the rules. The rules prohibit you, however, from continuing to raise the issue in multiple subsequent threads:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-feedback.html

You and Doug need to take the matter offline. If there are any updates, let me know and they can be added to the tread in Transactions Feedback.

 

I got a Z07 radiator (same a ZR1 with regular fittings) and an early Z06 oil cooler, now I have to block the radiator when I drive it on the street to get oil temp.

Also, my experience with ECS has always been outstanding. Very nice people to deal with!

 

Thousands of ECS kits out there running cool and great. Any SC kit can have heat issues, doesn't matter the brand. My ECS kit runs as cool as can be, along with many others. Don't listen to one disgruntled person that doesn't know what they are talking about.

I've had and worked with all 3 major centri kits on a c6 vette. The ECS kit is actually the coolest running of the 3. It keeps air to air oil cooler and allows the most flow of any of the kits to the radiator. The others kit only perform worse in the heat than ECS kit.

 

There are ways to improve cooling well on these cars. Not going to rehash it here but a search will find many good tips.
Some people just refuse any advice and try to prove that they can do it better than those that have already been successful. Those folks are on their own and will just have to spend and suffer until they wake up.
Nicks car is a great example since he makes big power and is in a hot climate. It's not rocket science!!'

 

Canuks car is another great example. 1000+hp and runs cool as can be.

 

Yeah. But it's cold here. 85 in summer is a nice day so cooling doesn't matter.