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Been out of the game for a little while. I'm looking to upgrade the rear end gearing in my 07 A6 at the same time as I install a higher stall converter. What companies currently manufacture aftermarket 3.15 rear ends? I used to have a DTE rear in my C5 but I can't find any trace of them anymore.
One out of a ZO6 or a ZR1 bolts rite up and gives you the rite gears, if you get 3.15 you'll have a good improvement but a 3.42 will be just great. A low miles diff is best or get one out RPM they are just great.
I went with the Yank 3400 power adder but is too tight even with over 500whp, a 3600 of same would be perfect.
I have the Z06 diff with 3.42s, which I bought new from ZIP. If I had to do it over again, I would go with an RPM or DTE with 3.15s and the Quaife diff. I personally find that, especially with boost and the 3600 FTI, first gear is practically useless to me now, even with drag radials on the car full time.
It looks to me that RPM offers better pricing on their A6 diffs though.
I have the Z06 diff with 3.42s, which I bought new from ZIP. If I had to do it over again, I would go with an RPM or DTE with 3.15s and the Quaife diff. I personally find that, especially with boost and the 3600 FTI, first gear is practically useless to me now, even with drag radials on the car full time.
It looks to me that RPM offers better pricing on their A6 diffs though.
I am going with a RPM 2.93 diff. What stall speed converter do you recommend? I have ~750 RWHP.
I am going with a RPM 2.93 diff. What stall speed converter do you recommend? I have ~750 RWHP.
BIGMAC
It depends on your torque curve and how much starting-off/low speed slip you are willing to put up with to gain that last bit of ET.
At that power level, I'm going to assume that you're a drive it during the week, track it on weekends kind of guy.
IIRC you're running a centri setup correct?
In that case, I would suggest something similar to the triple disc FTI 3600 I'm running or a Yank PAS 3800. I'm not sure if Yank offers the PAS in triple disc, but you can talk to Dave Meyers @ Yank and maybe he can build you something specific for your setup. That's your best bet anyhow. Great guy to deal with and very knowledgeable.
It depends on your torque curve and how much starting-off/low speed slip you are willing to put up with to gain that last bit of ET.
At that power level, I'm going to assume that you're a drive it during the week, track it on weekends kind of guy.
IIRC you're running a centri setup correct?
In that case, I would suggest something similar to the triple disc FTI 3600 I'm running or a Yank PAS 3800. I'm not sure if Yank offers the PAS in triple disc, but you can talk to Dave Meyers @ Yank and maybe he can build you something specific for your setup. That's your best bet anyhow. Great guy to deal with and very knowledgeable.
Car was built by the now defunct Florida Speed and Power (Matt Sorian); ECS kit, alky, 416 Forged Stroker by Fountain Racing Engines, etc. This will be a track only car that is trailered to and from the strip. I run brackets on the 1/8 and 1/4 mile and I am looking for consistency and not maximum ET so I want it to hook off the line. I paid for a Pro Torque 2500 stall converter but when the transmission that I blew came out of the car (see post "Help on A6 GS Driveline Failure" in the Tech and Perf section) lo and behold there was a PATC converter of unknown stall in there. I have always believed Matt to be a stand-up guy but it does make me wonder what else I paid for that is not in the car.
Been out of the game for a little while. I'm looking to upgrade the rear end gearing in my 07 A6 at the same time as I install a higher stall converter. What companies currently manufacture aftermarket 3.15 rear ends? I used to have a DTE rear in my C5 but I can't find any trace of them anymore.
Tommy
I assume the '06 is gone and replaced by the '07. Since you don't indicate what you plan to do with the car and what you've already done to it, just arbitrarily taking a guess really isn't appropriate. Telling you what I have has no value if you only want something for local street use. Likewise, for a dedicated drag car.
So lay it out front.
I assume the '06 is gone and replaced by the '07. Since you don't indicate what you plan to do with the car and what you've already done to it, just arbitrarily taking a guess really isn't appropriate. Telling you what I have has no value if you only want something for local street use. Likewise, for a dedicated drag car.
So lay it out front.
Good catch - I fat fingered it, the '06 in my sig is the car being discussed. It's got full exhaust and a FAST. Its my daily driver. I drag race the car about once a quarter at the test and tune, nothing serious, and play around with it on the street for fun on the weekends. I enjoy the touring aspect so I figured a 3.15 was a good compromise between the stock gearing and a Z06 differential. Considered going with just a converter, but am worried that the throttle will get mushy on the street with the stock 2.56. I am used to standard transmissions and enjoy the current snappy (for an auto) throttle response of the stock A6 setup.
Just for reference, my '08 bolton w/2.56 and a 3200 Yank still retained stockish street manners and ran a best of 11.49. A swap to a 3600 required a trans cooler and rollbar, but managed low 11's locally and the street still felt fairly sharp. Then I went to a 4000 and the street leaves it a bit short of happiness, but 10's at the track make up for that.
I do a lot of highway (140K so far), which is one reason why I retained the 2.56. The only other choice would have been a 3.42. I could either finish the quarter at the high end of 3rd or 4th.
I have the Z06 diff with 3.42s, which I bought new from ZIP. If I had to do it over again, I would go with an RPM or DTE with 3.15s and the Quaife diff. I personally find that, especially with boost and the 3600 FTI, first gear is practically useless to me now, even with drag radials on the car full time.
It looks to me that RPM offers better pricing on their A6 diffs though.
Nice to have another choice to look at to compare RPM's prices - which just went up!
I have the Z06 diff with 3.42s, which I bought new from ZIP. If I had to do it over again, I would go with an RPM or DTE with 3.15s and the Quaife diff. I personally find that, especially with boost and the 3600 FTI, first gear is practically useless to me now, even with drag radials on the car full time.
It looks to me that RPM offers better pricing on their A6 diffs though.
I agree the 3.42 gears and A6 auto is for N-A cars boost likes to stay in gears longer but for N-A cars like the OP there are no better gears to be pair to the A6 then the 3.42 and 3600 converter the Yank PA 3400 is a little too tight and at 3800 on the loose side so a 3600 would perfect.
Just for reference, my '08 bolton w/2.56 and a 3200 Yank still retained stockish street manners and ran a best of 11.49. A swap to a 3600 required a trans cooler and rollbar, but managed low 11's locally and the street still felt fairly sharp. Then I went to a 4000 and the street leaves it a bit short of happiness, but 10's at the track make up for that.
I do a lot of highway (140K so far), which is one reason why I retained the 2.56. The only other choice would have been a 3.42. I could either finish the quarter at the high end of 3rd or 4th.
Thanks to everybody for all of the help!
No cooler required with the 3200, even in Phoenix? Also, how did your tire requirements change as you increased the stall speeds?
No cooler required with the 3200, even in Phoenix? Also, how did your tire requirements change as you increased the stall speeds?
Without a cooler the trans ran warmer, but not hot in normal street use. The only time it went beyond the 210* self imposed limit was on a Clifton to Alpine day trip where I needed a couple of stops to cool down engine temps too.
I don't street race, nor drive aggressively in town. That doesn't mean I never play hard, just that I do it safely alone. I had already progressed to needing DR's at the track when I still had the stock converter, which I never use for the street.
I put a cooler on mine before I did the converter. I doesn't hurt to help the ATF cool with an auxiliary cooler, especially in these cars where the ECTs tend to get over 210* during normal driving, which tends to keep the ATF at a similar temp, since the stock "cooler" is in the radiator. And most importantly of all, as Realcanuk said, make sure it's tuned properly.