Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!

I'm getting "No FOB detected on a 2005 C6 6sp Coupe". On both key fobs, regardless of battery changes, they may work for a week or month . Both fobs unlock and lock the car normally, but will not start the car. Day so latter they will work normal (for a while at lest). I'm not reading any codes, but think my reader is limited to power train codes.

When this happens I notice:
1) No fobs detected message displayed
2) ticking or clicking sound behind the glove box door
3) car will start with the fob placed in the slot

I don't think it a transmitter issues because the doors will unlock and lock as I approach or leave the car and the Batteries replaced numerous times. If there is a controller, I'm tempted to replace it but not sure how to program the key code (which I have).

Is this something I can try and trouble shoot on my own (abet with help) or I am stuck going to to the dealership?

To me this whole concept is a completely necessary level of complexity but thats a topic for another forum.

 

Based on all the "FOB" issues found on google, some of the issues is low car battery, interference from cell phone too close to the FOB, FOB battery or the receiver signal module.
Your issue sounds like inteference from a cell phone or other source.
Try putting the FOB next to the start button when starting to see if it solves the issue.
Also, some batteries will not work correctly in the FOB.
If one side of the battery has a criss-crossed pattern, they do not work as well as flat smooth surface.

Good luck

 

I dealt with this for about a year with various fixes until finally today I programmed 2 brand new fobs (found online for $104 each from Chevy dealer). Try squeezing the bottom part of the fob together when you get the no detected message and see if the car starts then. After several battery changes; my fob didn't fit together tightly enough to have consistent contact with battery. Squeezing it would remedy...until next time. Ended up with zip tying together until finally replacing today.

 

Be sure you don't have a cell phone charging in the electrical outlet in the console.

If you carry the fob in a pocket, don't have any other large objects in that same pocket.

A strong external electronic signal will interfere with fob operation.

 

Thanks Everyone, big help!

I tend to keep my iPhone charging in the cup holder on the center console. Been playing with that and yes, there does seem to be an interaction. The module is located behind the radio head which is very close to the top of the sifter or Iphone when sitting in the cup holder.I'm keeping the phone away from the console, so far so good, but it's still early days.

My work around is (when the car and fob battery voltage are good) if the fob will unlock but not start the car, "power cycle" either the fob or the car ( remove and replace or disconnect and reconnect the battery) and things will go "back in sync". If the Fob will not unlock the car, replace the fob battery.

The only reason I have not jumped to replace the fob, is this was a one driver car, fob 2 looks like it was hardly ever used.

 

It's about an hours time if you have not done it before, but I solved my intermittent interference issues by removing the center console and putting aluminum foil around the wires to both power outlets. In my vette, those wires were unshielded, and they should be. I was having issues almost every other day with FOBs and TPMS acting up, and this has resolved it.

 

Mine has always been cell phone related. Matter of fact last night I have the fob and phone in my pocket and it wouldn't start until I moved the key from there.

 

Yea, I never keep my FOB and cell in the same pocket, but I'm gonna try it now that I put the shielding on the two 12 volt outlet wiring harnesses.

As I sad above, it solved my intermittent FOB and TPMS problems - so far, so good, but this will be the acid test! I'll report back in a week or so about how it works.

 

Been keeping the FOB and cell in the same pocket for a few days, and no issues

Hope I don't jinx myself.....

 

anyway you can post a pic of where you insulated the connections?

 

After I changed the oil, installed new Morimoto headlights, and projector ghost lights in the doors of my ‘06 and wired them to the interior lights under the dash at the at the floor, this problem started.

I would get in the car, try to start it, and I would get the “NO FOB DETECTED” message on the DIC. I read ALL the forums, replaced good fob batteries (car battery 2 years old), reprogrammed the fobs, all the “tricks”, and was about to try the more expensive fixes before breaking down and taking it to a dealer.

Then after more playing around, began to notice a pattern. I could press the start button many times, even with the fob inside the glovebox slot, and all I’d get is the same message and hear relays clicking... until the interior lights faded out completely, then VOILA! The car would start. Same thing when getting out of the car and trying to open the trunk, nothing until the lights went off, then the trunk would pop. Tire pressure sensors quit reporting actual pressure entirely too, 3 tires displayed zero always.

I disconnected the positive wires to the ghost lights from under the dash where they were connected and everything immediately went back to normal, including tire sensors.

There is certainly some kind of electrical interference with the sensitive circuitry of the wireless fob ignition system. Too much current draw? The lights looked great too! Too bad, at least they weren’t very expensive.

However, I’m pretty confident I could’ve paid LOTS of money to the dealer’s repair shop with them billing for lots of hours, and replacement parts before finally giving up and I’d still be stuck with the problem. I’m glad I figured this out for myself first!!

Who woulda thunk all this just from installing lights?!!