I very recently purchased a used 2010 Grand Sport and have a couple of active handling issues. The first is that I cannot get into the competitive driving mode. I've tried pushing the control buttons twice with various pauses between pushes or hold times on the second push. Each time it switches off and on, but never goes into competitive driving mode. The second issue happens when active handling is turned on, the left front brake has come on rather severely during a right hand turn when the car really shouldn't be pushing the limit. This is at similar speeds and rate of turn that my C5 Z06 wouldn't activate. Has anyone had a similar issue with their C6?

 

Do a search for "Service Active Handling" and anything to that variance and you will come up with a whole bunch of posts. You will have to prepare for a lot of reading but it will catch you up on the issues you are experiencing.

 

Are you getting any DTC error codes? That DTC # would help diagnose the cause for sure.

Circuit Description from the service manual.
The Vehicle Stability Enhancement System (VSES) is activated by the electronic brake control module (EBCM) calculating the desired yaw rate and comparing it to the actual yaw rate input. The desired yaw rate is calculated from measured steering wheel position, vehicle speed, and lateral acceleration. The difference between the desired yaw rate and actual yaw rate is the yaw rate error, which is a measurement of oversteer or understeer. If the yaw rate error becomes too large, the EBCM will attempt to correct the vehicle's yaw motion by applying differential braking to the left or right front wheel.

There are so many components associated with the active handling/anti-lock brake system, that a DTC code can certainly narrow it down.

 

Thank you! I saw a number of posts related to the "Service Active Handling" message coming up in the DIC, mostly for 2005 & 2006 model years. It seems there was a recall for those years, but I guess the problem persists beyond then. However, I don't get any message in the DIC, jut the two issues mentioned before. I will continue to search as you suggested, perhaps there are more issues than those that I saw. Thanks again.

 

Thanks. I checked for codes with an OBD2 reader and there were no current codes listed. There were two historical ones (P0420 & P0430) which relate to the catalyst efficiency.

 

Replace / check your TPMS sensors. I had the exact same thing happen on my 2010 GS after picking it up at the end of the summer. I almost crashed the car going through a corner because it applied the brakes on me. Whole active handling system goes batshit crazy with bad TPMS. Mine was intermittent problem, tire place even said TPMS was showing transmitting signal fine. But would check my tire pressures, and was getting "xx's" for two different wheels for pressure, couldn't get into competitive driving mode, and having scary situations with handling. Replaced all the TPMS sensors....perfect after that. Believe me.

 

Thanks Speedthrill. You may have hit the nail on the head. I had one of the sensors go bad on me so this may be the source of the issue. Just happens that I have an appointment with the dealer where I bought the car to fix the TPMS sensor. I'll let you know if this solves the issue.

 

Lots going on with the ABS/active handling/stabilitrac/traction control
I have a 2012 GS and just had to replace the steering wheel position sensor on mine for this issue.

 

Replace them all to be sure...use OEM TPMS sensors. Worth it for peace of mind. It's definitely what your problem is.

 

That makes more sense (and would have been helpful to know in the original post). Anyways, if these cars have a flat or if the car thinks it has a flat (with a bad TPMS sensor, it will think it does), you wont be able to change into the competitive driving mode.

If you are under warranty, I would take it to the dealer. If not, you may want to check with Discount Tire or a local Vette shop. You may find the price a little better.

 

Problem solved, it was the TPMS sensor that was bad. Since I just purchased the car the dealer replaced it at no cost even though it is out of warranty and I bought it "as is". He also replaced a couple of wheel studs that he thought were bad. I checked as soon as I got the car back and it went right into Competitive Driving mode, so it seems to have fixed the problem. I figure I will get a set of new sensors and have them replaced when I need to get new tires, if I don't have any more issues before then. I haven't had the brake come on during cornering, but then I haven't pushed it at all since I got the car back.

Thanks to all for your responses.

 

Definitely change them all out when you can. Took me a while to trust the car after it almost sending me over a cliff when I had the same issue. Worst part was the GM service dept I went to was clueless, and after I went in explaining I almost went over a cliff when the brake applied repeatedly going through a corner...just sent me on my way and said to come back if it happened again. Did my research, found someone that had had a similar problem on the forum here...replaced all the sensors when I got my new tires, and voila.

Enjoy the new (to you) GS! Pics?

My new (to me) 2010 GS.

 

Nice ride! Thanks again, everything seems to be working fine now, no unexpected brake applications. Attached is a photo of my new to me 2010 GS.

 

I still have issues with Service Active Handling. comes on every time i turn on the car. I have to cycle through with button to turn off then on then back off the SAH light. I cant get into competitive mode either. TPMS sensors are all measuring so i dont think its that and all coils are firing which i was told could be a cause as well. Just haven't seemed to find the gremlin in over a year.

 

There should be a code stored. It won't be visible to a generic code reader. You'll need a Tech 2 or higher-end aftermarket reader that can see GM brake and body control modules.

 

I had my TPMS go out in my 2010 ZR1 on the back straightaway at Texas World Speedway. Active handling kicked in and I couldn't turn the car into turn 1. I was doing 143mph on the straight and fortunately had managed to slow to 80 before going off the track. Dealership replaced all TPMS sensors (and pulled the grass and mud out of the suspension). One of the TMPS sensors failed, ABS was deactivated automatically and the Active Handling System went haywire. This system causes a lot of dangerous problems.

 

Is there a way to check one's TPMS sensors from home? I ask because I have Katech's tuning-calibrating device for TPMS, and wonder if I could save a trip to the shop. I bought the device, because I bought 4 new wheels which meant 4 new sensors.

Thanks

 

Yes there is. If you have a TPMS relearn tool (seems like you do), then follow these steps using your new sensors.
If the sensors are not yet installed in the tires, and you want to know if they are good, spread them apart about the same distance as your car tires.
1) Put the ignition switch to ACC mode
2) set parking brake (for manual only)
3) Using your key FOB, push the lock and unlock button at the same time until you hear a horn chirp.
4) Go to you driver front tire (or the first sensor and press against the sidewall close to your sensor air valve, holding the button on your TPMS tool until you hear a horn chirp.
5) Go to your next sensor, (Passenger front) following the same process until you hear the horn chirp.
6) go to the next sensor (passenger rear) same process until you hear the horn chirp.
7) Go to the next sensor (driver rear) same process until you hear the double chirp telling you that the process is finished and all sensors are activated OK.
8) Turn the ignition switch off.

You only have 2 minutes to relearn the sensors before the process times out. If one of the sensors does not activate, the process will not finish completely.
My TPMS learning tool has a light that shows me if the sensor battery is low or dead.
I presently have 3 of 4 working, and have one on order to get my 4 sensors paired again.

Good Luck

 

Thanks, I will go perform the re-learn steps again, just to be sure.

So, just having a pressure reading in the dashboard for each tire is not enough to know, that these things are good?

My car does this active handling error message after any hard driving. I got a great day out of the car Saturday, but towards the end of my drive, I spun wheels out of a stoplight. Few minutes later, I got the "Service Active Handling" error.
I know for sure, I have a tilt-steering wheel, but I don't think telescoping. They call it "manual tilt steering" on the brochure which I found here - https://www.corvsport.com/2007-c6-corvette/.
I mention that because there is some service bulletin about "tilt-telescoping" and "stabilitrac" that says there is a wire that can get pinched..

I also submit that i have replaced the stock wheels with "Cup" style wheels that are taller.

 

I cheated and just disconnected the Steering Wheel Position Sensor, so the car never knows when I am turning the wheel, and can thus never cut power to a specific corner. On the negative side, I don't have "Competitive Mode" after doing this, but I still have Traction Control On/Off control. Since I track my car regularly, that's all I use anyway. Good luck!