so. all the bulbs went out in the dic panels..the dimmer..gas and hatch switches..

today i tore them out and put in red leds with resistors... turned out awesome... the problem is that while i had the switches and pieces out i turned on the acc to check function of the leds...

i got it all put back together and when i tried to start,
i only got clicking from behind the center console...
no fob recognized..
there is a symbol with a lock in red on the gauge cluster to the left of the tach
it s stuck in acc mode because it wont let me shift into reverse..
i get an intermittent service column lock
service vehicle soon message..

twice it started after trying over and over and over.. the third time i left it out of reverse and shut it down...and it wouldnt let me get reverse.. to shut down acc mode..

so i umplugged the battery ...waited a while... reconnected.. and now i get all the above messages again...and it wont start..when i hit the start button just the clicking behind the center console...all the dash lights go out... until i release and reapply the clutch ...then it reinitializes the gauges ...if try to restart its the same thing again..

i bypassed the reverse lockout solenoid with a jumper... i was able to get it into reverse...but the shift to reverse did not go go away and still would not shut down from acc mode..even after another battery disconnect..

its like the immobilizer wont let it start.. or its really confused...checked all the fuses..didnt touch any wires other than thos to remove the dic and other buttons.. no chaffed wires...

i have a tech2 if someone can point me in the right direction..maybe theres a relearn or reset procedure

was thinking about buying and programming another fob but im not sure if i can with it not going into reverse.. gonna let the battery charge overnight... pull codes tommorow.. this has gotten fing rediculous..theres a 2000 bmw 540i with 227k miles on it sitting next to the vette...that hasnt been started in 3 months.. started the first try...has never given me any problems..i can drive it cross country if need be..
i havent even put 50miles on the vette yet..

i doubt the column lock went bad..i got a feeling this ones gonna be shitty

 

have not checked the relays... id im not mistaken the pcm relay is the one that takes care of most of the starting and stuff like that...

 

Sounds to me like a bad battery. Simple fix. You should think about installing a column lock bypass because eventually that will fail.

 

your correct sir... i ordered a bypass last night...

U2105 lost comm with bcm

i checked all fuses and relays..all were good...

battery was fully charged this morning...its a 2 week old redtop...so i knew it was not the battery...

i went through and cleared all codes one at a time.. and tried to restart after every code clear...the last one was u2105 ...so i cleared that dtc..and within 5 seconds of clearing it..(acc mode was on i on the whole time i was clearing codes) the steering wheel lock actuated..(i knew then i was on to something)...

(had the fob in the pocket the whole time)once that happened the( car symbol with the lock on it light) went out ..i hit the start button and it fired up... only thing i can guess is that the u2105 was keeping it from doing some important things.

also at the same its potssible that the fob was part of the problem...the battery actually decided to die while all this was going on so i had to put the fob in the pocket in glove box.. replaced the battery and the no fob message went away. (always happens in twos)

im not sure if this was caused by unplugging the dic panels an turning on acc mode..and having one unplugged and the other unplugged..with acc mode on and off multiple times. ...maybe disconnecting battery multiple times may have made it it somehow gets all confused

or if the whole dam thing was caused by a failing battery fob

so either my car is very sensitive to fluctuations in system voltages..or its a very sensitive little bitch

anyway...having the tech 2 seems to saved my azz..
i only hope reading this helps someone else... and helps them remember..

1. make sure your battery is good/use a battery checker..because as your battery gets lower and lower it will start to do some crazy ****.
2. make sure your fob battery is good
3. a tech2 is indispensable

 

funny story.... i went back outside to go to store...hit the button.... click click click ,,,
damn starter solenoid decided to get stuck son ....of.....a....@@@@@ ..lmao.

tapped the starter with a breaker bar and it started.. this is getting comical

 

likely the post on the solenoid is heat stressed and failing. drop the starter and replace it . ( cheap fix about $20 if you do It yourself like I do )

 

it turned out the nut on the post was actually loose...my son was afraid to strip it when he tightened .. so it wasnt quite tight enough...

and all the cable/battery pos and neg cables were badly corroded and kinda loose..so i cleaned all the connections and re tightened... starting problem gone..

 

so the above was part of the problem but did not fix the issue...
luckily it didnt leave my kid stranded.. the way it works is when the switch fails it will let you start the car a few times but then it wont start at all after a few starts.. so luckily he got home and it quit here..

i hooked up the tech12 and just started going through the live data for anything that had anything to do with reverse...

i got the reverse lights and the signal was changine from active to inactove by itself...so i got under and checked the two switches on the right side of the trans... they looked good but of course that means nothing..

since they are just contact switches... i used a jumper on the top ones connector...then the bottom one...but got nothing...then i jumped them both and the acc mode shutdown...then it would start...

so it ended up being the backup lamp switch and the ione on top of it which i think is the one that unlocks the steering column lock.. they work together somehow...

so i ordered two new ones.. and a hatch release switch... im freaking happy right now..

i took the switches apart by cutting the crimp on the lathe... on both of them the rubber seal inside had failed and the insides of the switches had filled with oil...

the oil then caused the pladstic housing to somehow swell...which allowed the two contactors in it to actually slide out just a bit.. theh sliding out is what caused the contactor plate inside the switch to not e able to reach them and close the circuit

so if you look at those switches on the passenger of the trans and they look wet around the connector or the base of the plastic housing..they are getting ready to leave your stranded... so change em out.. part number 89060011